Imagini ale paginilor
PDF
ePub

gers, flew past us! What the result might have been had we failed in this run for life no one knows; but in all probability some or all of us would have been seriously if not fatally wounded. In a few minutes another and then another car shot by, while we were debating whether we should proceed or return. Finally, one stout Dutchman and his wife, quite in a rage, not unjustly, turned back; but being assured that there was now no danger to apprehend, the rest of us again took up our line of march. It can hardly be doubted, however, that it was a foolhardy undertaking, since, besides the risk of broken bones from the rail cars, we might all have been engulfed by the closing up of the tunnel, which was walled or lined over the top and sides only a short distance from its mouth. The rest of the way it was left precisely as excavated through the salt earth, which appeared to be of about the solidity of hard pin - gravel. No matter, we had enlisted for the campaign, therefore we pushed on, and soon reached a point where our leather aprons were brought into use. First, however, we think we came to the lake, which, surrounded by a row of dull lamps, appeared to be an acre or so in extent, and entering a boat we were rowed across it. It looked black and tasted very salty. Everything here looked black, except the dim lamplight, which served only to make darkness visible. We will not say that we thought we were in the infernal regions, but we will admit that a sort of shudder came over us lest, as out of a deep sleep, we might be in some such place! From this landing we now prepared to descend into a vast pit, seventy feet deep from the top over our heads-the distance from where we stood to the bottom being forty or fifty feet. A large, smooth piece of timber,

with a rope for a guard, extended at about the inclination of an ordinary staircase-if anything, a little steeper-to the bottom, and this was to serve as our carriage-way. Each gentleman now being furnished with a thick leather hand-shoe to protect his right hand in grasping the rope, our guide seated himself astride this beam and slid down a few feet, bracing himself to allow us to follow suit. This, with lamps in our left hands, we did at once-the ladies (our special companion not among them) being sandwiched between and holding to the shoulders of the gentleman who clasped the rope. The word was given, and off we shot into the darkness below. Our guide managed in some way to check our fall so that no bones were fractured; but, although this may be a very good way to prove the utility of leather aprons, especially when worn behind, we are not prepared to recommend the performance, either for healthy exercise or amusement. Extending from the bottom of this pit there is a shaft in which the miners descend five hundred feet further into the bowels of the earth; but having no desire to explore regions so far inland, we did not ask to enter. After collecting some specimens of rock salt, which lay here in heaps, ascending by a steep flight of stairs, we all mounted astride a wooden horse, sandwiched as before, and by our own momentum were carried swiftly down the rail into daylight, perfectly content with our first experience of salt mines and inclined planes.

It was half-past nine in the evening when we reached our hotel in Salzburg; and the interest of our ride was heightened by signal fires kindled high up on the sides or tops of several mountains far apart (in commemoration, we understood, of some

event,) and other demonstrations-in one place, for instance, a beautiful floral arch, under which we had the honor of passing, having been erected over the highway.

A ride of five hours by rail on the following day took us to Munich, this beautiful capital of Bavaria, of which and its many interesting objects it will be our pleasure in our own good time to write.

CHAPTER XXIII.

MUNICH, AUGUST 31.- Some parts of this city

for

may be said to be emphatically on the river,

"The torrent flow

Of Isar, rolling rapidly"

under many of its houses, shops, and manufacturing establishments, furnishes excellent motive power. The principal part of the city, however, lies on the northwest side. It is said to be nearly seventeen hundred feet above the level of the sea; and being not far from the mountains, it should, and doubtless does, command a pure and healthy atmosphere in all seasons of the year. Our stay here has been very pleasant, the more so from being in home-like quarters at a private boarding-house kept by a very competent lady, Fräulein Dahlweiner, who received very prominent notice a year or two ago through a Book of Travels by Helen Hunt. Although no doubt kindly intended by the authoress, the manner in which she is made to figure in the book is very dis

tasteful to her, as she did not hesitate to signify to us in lending us the book to read.

The first day after our arrival was Sunday, when there was a grand military review by the King, Louis II., of Bavaria. Extending for a mile or more from the western boundary of the city is a level plain covering many acres, and admirably situated for such a display. The troops,- infantry, artillery, and cavalry, -with splendid bands, assembled at the further side, which was bordered by a hill, lined with spectators. The greater crowd of spectators, however, was on the south side, near the city, where we were content to take our stand, especially as no carriage was to be had, and we walked over a mile to this point. After maneuvering for some time in the distance, the troops came down in grand array, with colors flying, now with stirring music of drum and fife, next with that of a full brass band, of which there were several, and then would come the shrill sound of the trooper's horn, conveying some order readily comprehended and obeyed. The King and his staff, all mounted on splendid steeds, and in gorgeous uniforms, took position nearly in front of us, thus affording us a satisfactory sight as the various regiments passed in review. The King is a large, fine-looking man, with a full, round face, and light complexion. Near the close, the Queen, an elegant-looking lady, in company with two or three other ladies in a carriage, made her appearance on the field, when they were saluted by the King and his staff and loudly cheered by the crowd. The King was also vociferously cheered by the citizens, who were out in such numbers that few could have stayed at home. In the afternoon we atoned somewhat for our wickedness of the fore

noon by attending service at the English Episcopal church, whose temporary pastor from England was a boarder at our house.

We have visited here two or three of the finest cathedrals we have anywhere seen, in one of which is a large crucifix suspended from the center of the roof; and in some or all of them are private altars set around the sides, very richly ornamented, and abounding in choice pictures, statues, statuettes, etc. It was an odd sight here to see priests in their robes marching in a solemn manner through the streets, headed by attendants, also in caps and long gowns, bearing a crucifix and lanterns elevated before them.

There is a great deal of interest to be seen here, and we have been quite industrious in going to one or more places every day. The Museum must be one of the most extensive and interesting in Europe. Almost every old thing that could be thought of may be seen there, including all kinds of ancient. armor, furniture, jewelry, coins, and statuary. The Glyptothek (Sculpture Building) is a fine edifice, plain outside, but highly finished and beautiful within. It has a number of galleries, and is filled with sculpture some of the statues and busts being remarkably fine. The old Pinakothek is the gallery of old paintings, which rank no doubt with those of the best galleries in other cities. We have been many times to this gallery, and could spend weeks in it agreeably in looking at the pictures, numbering, it is said, nearly thirteen hundred. A great many of the paintings are by Rubens, while there are some by Murillo, Dürer, Van Dyck, Guido, Carlo Dolce, Correggio, and many other artists of the old school. Murillo's four celebrated pictures of Italian beggar children are here, and we have obtained photographs

« ÎnapoiContinuă »