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as a great memorial hall, and to contain, among other works of art, the busts and statues of the most distinguished men of Bavaria. Being comparatively new, the number is not yet large; but among about one hundred busts are those of Albert Dürer, Martin Luther, Schiller, Goethe, Mozart, Wallenstein, and Charlemagne; and there are also six angelic white marble statues of "Victory," by Rauch. We say angelic, because they are full-length figures, life-size, of beautiful females, with wings. They are differently posed, but all except one hold one or two wreaths, and this one holds a laurel branch in her right hand. They are all exquisitely beautiful, and we readily recall them to sight as well as mind by photographs of them in our collection. There is, we think, a carriage road to or quite near to the Temple on one side; but, as being the shorter way, we were left to walk a quarter of a mile to it in a foot-path up the steep hill, covered to the top by a fine forest. Were this magnificent Temple not so far out of the course of ordinary travel, it would undoubtedly be universally visited and admired. Returning by coach to the village or city of Ratisbon, we again took the train and reached Eger at eight P. M., where we stayed over night.

It was a long ride from Eger to Leipsic, our next stopping place (it took from half past eight in the morning till half past four in the afternoon) but we were fortunate in having for a traveling companion Mr. E. J. Sobeck, of Luditz, Bohemia, who, although unable to speak his own Bohemian tongue, could speak German, English, French, Spanish, and Italian. At present his principal business is that of an extensive hop merchant, shipping enormous quantities of that article to all quarters of the world.

He is also an architect and a professional musician, but has not practised the latter profession for many years. He told us that in 1836 he traveled through most of the United States as a member of a Bohemian band, playing on the clarionet. He said they performed in Washington, and spoke of the pleasure he enjoyed in a call on President Jackson, whom they saluted with a serenade. From Baltimore to Pittsburg they rode in a mail stage. Subsequently he was the leader of a band in the service of the Queen of Spain; and when Jenny Lind was in her glory he traveled and performed for a time with her. He is a man of commanding appearance, fine address, and evidently well educated; in fact, our true ideal for a Senator. Everything on the route was interesting to us. The buildings are odd looking, the costumes of the peasantry queer, especially of the women, who work with the men in the fields; and the manner in which oxen are harnessed, with a yoke passing directly below their horns, thus drawing from the head instead of the breast, added to the novelty. Cows are also made to work in the same manner. The crops seem abundant. At the stations, where very short stops were made, beer was brought for sale at the car windows. It is offered in thin pint glasses the shape of wine casks, and sold very cheap, glass and all-the glass to be thrown away after its contents are drunk. We have, however, preserved one of them, and may find it useful.

Our approach to Leipsic carried us directly through the field where the principal part of the great battle of Leipsic was fought, on the 16th, 17th, and 18th of October, 1813, between the army of Napoleon on the one side, and the allied armies of Prussia, Russia,

and Austria on the other, resulting in the defeat of Napoleon, who occupied the city at the commencement of the battle. His force was said to have numbered one hundred and seventy thousand men against three hundred thousand of the allied army, whose loss was only fifty thousand, while his was eighty thousand. Sir Walter Scott, in his "Life of Napoleon," gives a description of the town and a vivid account of the battle. He says: "The venerable town of Leipsic forms an irregular square, surrounded by an ancient Gothic wall, with a terrace planted with trees. Four gates—on the north those of Halle and Ranstadt, on the east the gate of Grimma, and on the south that called St. Peter's gatelead from the town to the suburbs, which are of great extent, secured by walls and barriers. Upon the west side of the town, two rivers, the Pleisse and the Elster, wash its walls, and flowing through meadows divide themselves into several branches connected by marshy islands." On this side, thus protected, Napoleon was enabled, or permitted, lest his troops if headed off at every point might become desperate, to keep open a line of retreat toward the Rhine. It is supposed that he did not expect any serious attack on the northern side; therefore his preparations were chiefly made on the southern side of the city; but on the second day the Prussian General, Blucher, made a violent attack, and obtained great advantages on the north side. The next day was occupied, without any serious conflict, by both armies in preparation for the final struggle of the 18th, which resulted in Napoleon's defeat and most disastrous retreat. In retreating, nearly his whole army was obliged to pass through the city; and, although commenced on the night of the 18th,

it was morning before all succeeded in making their escape. They were then fiercely pursued by the victorious allies, joined by the Saxon and Baden troops, who, at the moment of his defeat, had abandoned Napoleon; and the fight was continued hand to hand through the city. Added to this, the only bridge to serve as an exit for the whole French army having been mined by Napoleon's orders, to be blown up as soon as his army should be safely over, was, through some mischance, thus prematurely destroyed, and a large number of the French, unable to escape, were taken prisoners.

It was with no slight interest that we looked upon the scene of this great battle, during which Napoleon had his headquarters at the Rathhaus, or Town Hall; and it was in this Hall that the commander of the allied army, Marshal Schwarzenberg, afterward died. We visited the market-place, from which we were soon, however, driven by an awful smell of what they called cheese; went to the University, through the principal business streets, park, etc. Not caring to stop here longer, we left on a slow train at one in the afternoon, and reached Berlin, the capital of the German Empire, at half-past six, on the 31st of July.

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CHAPTER XIX.

ERLIN, AUGUST 4.-Our first day in Berlin, August 1, was Sunday, and in company with Hon. H. N. Conger, of New Jersey, United States Consul at Prague, and his wife, we went to the house where it was expected religious services in English would take place, but none were held, there being no minister, and we turned our steps toward the King's Palace, to which we were admitted on payment of one mark, about twenty-five cents, each, and were shown through the principal rooms. This magnificent edifice, called the Old Palace, has an interior inclined plane walk, wide enough for a carriage-way, paved with brick, to the third story. Whether the old sovereigns used to ride over this road or not, we did not learn; but we found it easy of ascent. The seven or eight rooms shown to us were sumptuously furnished, and the Royal Chapel contains many fine works of art. The throne room is very large, and is gorgeously decorated. Another splendid room contains statues of the Brandenburg Electors and various allegorical figures. Before entering these rooms, as in the Temple of Walhalla, we were all obliged to put on over our shoes large felt slippers, which could be kept on only by sliding along without raising the feet. The floors of polished wood are as smooth as glass, and this precaution is observed to prevent injury. There is a story to the effect that this Palace was formerly haunted by a ghost in the shape of a lady in white who made her appearance only when some member of the royal family was about to depart from this life. At the gate of the Palace are two bronze horses with grooms.

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