cannot go this morning." "Cannot go; and why?" "Because I am in mourning." Madame de Metternich has had the editors of the Courrier Français condemned to two month's imprisonment and two thousand francs fine for an article injurious to her reputation. The wife of an ambassador ought to be more circumspect in her behaviour, and not give room for criticisms-a woman, too, who has a daughter of fourteen! When grand ladies will ape the demi-monde, they must expect to be treated with levity. They say that this Austrian lady is very seductive and full of wit; but the things current of her eccentricities and demimonde manners lay her open to slander, that is certain; you never hear a young man speak of her with the least respect.

Like you in London, we had a theatre burnt down the other night. In seeing the prompt succour given in London through the medium of the telegraph in communication with the stations for the engines, Government has decided that the telegraph shall in future lend its aid in Paris also.

The Court remains at St. Cloud this year. There has been no hospitality accorded at Compiegne; the Emperor has only been to that imperial residence two or three times, to a hunt in the forest. The gay season is gradually beginning; several reception-rooms have been opened, particularly those belonging to the Ministers of State. The Skating Club was in high expectation at the beginning of December; the severe cold and frost for a few days made them speculate on a fête on the ice; preparations had been made on a large scale, when the rain came, and away went the frost as usual. Those who prefer walking to skating or sliding were not sorry at the change.

scription; and to think that we have inspectors to censure plays before they are allowed to be put before the public! Then the foolery! When one has read the clever book, one is irritated beyond measure in seeing such a stupid parody on Swift's masterpiece of criticism; and this was announced to us as being something marvellous: the scenery is certainly splendid. These horrors are allowed on the stage, while the famous drama of Victor Hugo, "Ruy Blas," has been forbidden. The director of the Odéon had asked permission of our great poet, permission that had been accorded, and all lovers of art were rejoicing at the thought of the fête in store for them, when the censors declared that the drama could not be allowed, and we are in a rage, but must submit,

Our great publishers, Hachette and Co., have lately given to the public one of the most marvellous illustrations of Lafontaine's Fables ever seen. The book is beyond description splendid; each fable has a beautiful drawing by Gustave Doré, in which our artist has surpassed himself. 200 francs (£8) is the price of each volume. The same publishers are preparing a Bible which will cost 500 francs (£20). They published a cooking book at the beginning of this month which was 25 francs, and of which the first edition was all sold in a few days. The engravings made one's mouth water proof of what a set of gluttons we are; yes, gluttons, for such a study of what we nourish the body with is a sign of the materialism of the epoch. That thought brings me to the famous new piece "Gulliver's Travels," in which the Chatelet is now exposing before an admiring public three hundred naked women; and when I say naked I do not exaggerate, for several of them are indecent beyond de

The Théâtre Lyrique has just given us a new opera-comique not in the least comic I assure you-"Cardillac ;" the history of a jeweller who was so in love with his jewels, that he killed those who bought them of him, to get them again. A young man, who was to be married to Cardillac's daughter, discovered his master's crimes, and tried all he could to prevent them, without betraying the father of his beloved affianced Madelaine. One night, however, Ollivier had followed Cardillac at a distance, after the sale of some splendid diamonds, knowing as he did that Cardillac was in quest of the nobleman who had bought them, when his master received a blow from the nobleman, and was killed. The soldiers arrived, and, seeing Ollivier alone with thedead man, supposed that he was the murderer, and conveyed him to prison. The jeweller Cardillac, however, recovers for a few hours, and declares the truth. The piece is very dramatic, and the music very good. It promises a good run. L'Alcazar is representing a new operette, "Heloise and Abeilard," musique bouffon-very droll and sparkling, also a success.

In the new "Revue," in which is introduced all the events of the year, they have not forgotten Sothern's head, which he so pasted up on every wall during his unlucky essay with us. An Englishman the other night was stopped in the street by some thieves; the police arrived in time to rescue him, and to arrest the robbers. The Englishman could not make himself understood, nor could he understand the police, who took him to prison as well. He was, however, set at liberty the next day, and without wishing to see any more of la belle France, started off home to England, and in spite of all the justice of France can say or do, will not come back to give evidence against the thieves: he declares he will never go again where the "Habeas Corpus" act is not in force. Adieu.

S. A.

THE

This is useful for sofa-pillows, anti-macassars, for insertion for petticoats, for a deep border for a child's dress, or a deep border round eider-down quilts.

First measure with an inch measure, along the top and bottom of the cambric, spaces an inch-and-a-half wide; mark these with a hard pencil. These must exactly correspond on each side; now crease it across in diagonal lines, and run a white cotton through the creases. Now crease the cambric across the reverse way, and also run in a cotton. (If the cambric is a long piece, only a small portion need be done at a time). On these lines of cotton, loosely but firmly run the tape-loosely, because these threads, as well as those of the dividing lines, have to be ultimately taken out; and firmly, that the tape may not slip. Now turn the work on the side where the tape does not appear,

trace off the leaf from nature, or a pattern, gum it on to some stiff card; when dry cut out the shape, lay it on the work at the point where the lines cross each other, and run a hard pencil round; rnn round this outline with No. 6 cotton. Make four of these leaves in the same way; then, with No. 30 cotton lightly sew the No. 6 cotton round, but not so as to flatten it. Make several of these stars in the same way, then overcast them very thickly with embroidery cotton. Connect them with cross-bars, one bar going quite across, with two threads of embroidery cotton, then overcast with button-hole stitch; the second bar make also entirely across, but in overcasting, when at the centre, catch the first bar with one firm stitch, then finish. The cambric under the bars and on the tape has now to be cut out with sharp scissors.

This flower requires five petals to form it, two violet and three yellow; one of the latter must be larger than the rest, and of a deeper colour. All the wool must be split.

For the violet petals cast on ten stitches on two needles, five on each; fold the two needles so as to bring the last stitch behind the first, and double knit a piece of rather more than half an inch in length, taking one stitch from one needle, and one from the other throughout each row. When you take the needles out, run the wool through them with a rug-needle, and pass a piece of double wire through the little bag which the knitting has formed, catch it at the top and sides to keep it in form, draw up the other end, and twist the wires together after having shaped the wire to the form of the petal. The yellow petals are knitted in the same way; the largest requires twelve stitches, and the last four or six rows must be done with violet wool, to form the dark spot at the top. The two smaller yellow petals only require eight stitches, with two or four rows of violet at the top; twist the wires of the five petals together, and cover the stem with green wool; a cross-stitch, like herring-bone, should be made with green wool, where the petals join in the middle of the flower.

For the calyx thread a needle with whole green wool, fasten this on the stem at the back of the flower, and take a herring-stitch at the back of each petal, making the s titch rather long, and leaving the wool loose. The bud is formed by making a little tuft of yellow, violet, and green wool, mixed together; fix it on a piece of wire by crossing the wool over, and twisting the wire very tight, turn the ends of the wool down the wire, and fasten them at about a quarter of an inch down, by twisting some green split wool round, with which the little stem must be also covered.

LEAVES.-Cast on three stitches. Knit one row, purl one row, then 1st row. Make one, knit one throughout the

row.

2nd. Make one, purl the row.

3rd. Make one, knit three, make one, knit one, make one, knit two.

4th. Make one, purl the row.

5th. Make one, knit five, make one, knit one, make one, knit six.

6th. Make one, purl the row.

7th. Cast off, or fasten off, three stitches, knit three, make one, knit one.

8th. Cast off three stitches, purl the row.

9th. Make one, knit five, make one, knit one, make oue, knit four.

10th. Make one, purl the row.

11th. Make one, knit seven, make one, knit one, make one, knit six.

12th. Make one, purl the row.

13th. Fasten off three stitches, knit the remainder.

14th. Fasten off three stitches, purl the rest. 15th. Knit six, make one, knit one, make one, knit six.

16th. Purl the row.

29th. Knit row plain. 30th. Purl row plain.

31st. Cast off two, knit remainder. 32nd. Cast off two, purl remainder. 33rd. Knit row plain. 34th. Purl row.

35th. Knit row plain. 36th. Purl row plain.

37th. Cast off two, knit remainder. 38th. Cast off two, purl remainder. Fasten off the two last stitches.

18th. Purl the row.

19th. Fasten off three stitches, knit four, make one, knit one, make one, knit seven.

20th. Cast off three stitches, purl the row. 21st. Knit six, make one, knit one, make one, knit five.

22nd. Purl the row.

It is on this principle that all kinds of inwith increase between the castings off they are made broader: by working more rows between the castings off they are made longer; and by casting off more stitches at a time the indentations are made deeper; so that the endless variety of natural leaves may be copied without difficulty.

Having completed the leaves, some wire must

24th. Purl the row.

25th. Cast off three stltches, knit remainder. 26th. Cast off three stitches, purl remainder. 27th. Knit row plain.

28th. Purl the row plain..

the leaf exactly; and for the larger ones it will be better to sew a double wire in the centre of the leaf at the back, which will conceal the openings left by the increase of stitches.

One or two flowers, with a bud, and two or three leaves, are sufficient for a small branch.

FIRST FIGURE.-Toilet for evening or the opera, composed of a first dress of white satin, body high and plain, sleeves tight, the skirt finished at the bottom with a pinked flounce, very slightly fulled, headed with a plaited tress, or other ornament. Second skirt of green satin, or pou-de-soie, body half-low behind, open and square in front. Gros-grain waistband, finished by a white satin bow. Sleeves open to the elbow, and hanging thence in the medæval style. This body and sleeves are trimmed with bias pieces of white satin, and the upper part of the sleeves is not closed, but only kept together at the bend of the arm with a white satin rosette to match that on the waistband.

SECOND FIGURE.-Dress of Champ de Mars black cloth. We may perhaps be allowed to suggest that black cloth "by any other name" will do as well, trimmed at bottom with a rich gimp fringe, body ornamented with cord loops match the gimp. Sleeves tight, trimmed with fringe on the shoulders, and finished at the wrist with gimp. Upright collar. Pocket-holes trimmed with gimp.

A pleasing change from the loose sack so

much worn of late, is a half-tight fitting paletót with a cardinal cape. It is made of velvet, and trimmed with jet or a band of fur, such as Russian sable, mink, ermine, chinchilla, Astrakan, squirrel, or grebe.

Another novel design, also for velvet, is halftight fitting in the back and cut vest-like in front. Commencing at the shoulders are two long sash ends, which are very loosely carried round to the back, and tie half-way down the skirt. Another very pretty model has scarflike ends in front.

A very pretty sleeveless jacket is of scarlet cloth, trimmed on the edge with a guipure lace laid upon the material. This is studded with jet beads, and at intervals large jet medallions are laid on the lace. Many of the jackets are made square at the back, rounding in front, and are not sewed up under the arm, being merely connected by a short strap. Another style is round in front, and slopes into a deep point at the back. Still another model is square, both back and front, and the sides are cut with long square-ends like a sash.

Coloured silk underskirts with overskirts of

is either plain, or finished with a little plaiting of the same; the overskirt is cut up in front in the form of strips, which are edged with fringe; the back is merely knotched, or cut in turrets. Another style of overskirt measures but halfa-yard in front, and at the back and sides is festooned by bands or bows.

A very pretty morning robe is of white Cashmere inade with a yoke. The skirt is set on to this yoke with three box-plaits at the back aud the same in front. Each plait is trimmed with a strap of cluny lined with coloured ribbon. The dress hangs perfectly loose, and is exceedingly stylish.

Fringes of red or pink coral-every variety of jet ornament, and velvet and satin trimmings are all sued on dresses.

For travelling and promenade suits we rerecommend the twilled winseys trimmed with mohair braids and fanciful bands of silk. Many of the sacks made en suite are either tied in at the back with a ribbon or fastened with a fancy strap. Sashes of every description are worn, mostly fastened at the back with long pendant ends.

The newest ornaments for looping dresses are gilt or jet rings; two are attached to the belt, two larger ones are then joined on, and to these are fastened one ring still larger, through which the skirt is pulled, thus making a festoon.

Many of the new morning robes are furnished with large capes: others have little Marie Antoinette fichus with fancy ends in front, belted in at the waist.

Narrow pinked flounces have been readopted, also pinked ruches; rows of six or seven are placed very close together and form a very pretty finish to a skirt. Trained skirts are generally trimmed to simulate a double skirt. Another style of ornamentation is to arrange the trimming to expand like rays on the back of the skirt, commencing at the waist.

A new hoop skirt has just been patented, which can be arranged to wear with a short walking-dress or a long-trained skirt.

French jewellery is now very much worn, and so good is the imitation, that unless the articles are handled by one in the trade, they could not be detected from the most expensive styles. We see stone cameoes in a setting of pearls; flies, and butterflies in enamel; rich gilt and silver ornaments quivering with countless little pendent balls, and innumerable beautiful designs that defy description. In oxidized silver are the greatest variety of comical groups arranged as sleeve buttons, pins, bracelets, and ear-rings. The most novel design for sleeve buttons is a large fish cut in two, one-half answering for one sleeve button and the other half for the other button.

The talismanic jewelry is also in great demand; this is of a bluish-green substance, made in peculiar looking Egyptian forms covered with gilt hieroglyphics. The Byzantine mosaics now rank very high. These differ entirely from the usual mosaics; they are very fine, and quite

We have one more model to describe; this is a skirt of rich violet silk with an overskirt of a lighter shade. The corsage is like the underskirt, and is made in the basque form, with two deep points in front and two very long points on each side, which serve to loop up the upper skirt. The points are richly trimmed with black lace, and the sleeves, which are of the lightest shade of silk, are headed by an epaulette of black lace.

Among the new wraps are tartan plaids of every imaginable combination. They are generally of the circular form, without trimming, except at the neck, where there is a full ruching of different coloured silks to suit the plaid. Another style which, though not new, is again to be made up, is a circular with large cape looped up in the centre with either one or two rosettes of pinked ribbon.

Cloth costumes are already prepared for cold days; they are of a light make of cloth, and marine or sailor blue is the colour universally selected for them, on account of its durability. It is trimmed either with flat braid or narrow bands of fur. The following is a novel and very distinguished style of making up one of these blue cloth dresses: The skirt is made short enough to escape the ground, and is trimmed to simulate a tunic opening at the left side; this is managed with a crosscut band of black silk, and large sculptured ebony buttons. The paletót, which is likewise fastened at the left side, is round at the back, and reminds me forcibly of the jackets worn by the young peasant-girls of Morbihan. The collar and sleeves are also trimmed with a crosscut band of black silk, and the black buttons are repeated at the side of the jacket.

Astrakan is the most popular fur at present for trimming this dark blue cloth; it is always cut into very narrow bands, so as not to present too heavy an appearance. Cloth paletőts are to be lined with squirrel this winter, and the fur is to pass a short distance beyond the cloth, so as to make a border of it.

Wreaths and garlands are no longer worn as head-dresses, but large flowers at the side of the head. Long handsome feathers will probably be adapted this winter, and those made-up wings and artificial humming-birds so sought after last season, will disappear.

BONNETS.-There is a slight change in the shape of the bonnet. The new bonnets are of a peculiar form, and are called baby bonnets, being somewhat in the style of the headgear which children of six months old wear. They are made of drawn velvet, with a large flat crown, and a mantille of either black or white lace. The new bonnets are much less flat in front than they have been worn during the summer; they are raised by means of a bouillonné of velvet, ornamented with jet pendantdrops; also by plaits or tresses made partly of velvet and partly of satin. These are carried down the sides of the bonnet, and the plait crosses on the chest, fastened there either with