ART. XIII. On Pruning, and other Points in the Management of Timber Trees. By W. T.

Sir,

By this time, I suppose, the authors of the two books lately published on arboriculture (one at 21s., the other at 12s.) are aware that they have not given the public much new on the subject which they undertook to illustrate: at least, those who have added to their own practical experience an acquaintance with the works of the scientific and professional writers on tree culture, will not be easily convinced that they have derived much information from the books alluded to. However, these books, in common with others, will be the means of raising a spirit of enquiry and investigation in this hitherto partly neglected branch of culture.

Gardeners, in general, are now not so ignorant in horticultural chemistry and vegetable physiology as some would imagine. Many gardeners, I trust, will join me in saying that we are much indebted to the Encyclopædia of Gardening, in which we have the essence of the best writers on all points of importance, both within and "without the garden walls." At the same time, it must be admitted that there are some gardeners who think arboriculture below their notice; others, perhaps, know more than they are allowed to put in practice. It is but fair that he who pays the piper should make him play as he pleases: notwithstanding, if the piper can play better, he should beg to be heard; and, after having given proof that he does not overrate his abilities, it is likely he will be allowed to go on in his own way.

I have had some experience, during the last 17 years, in planting and transplanting trees, from a two-years Scotch pine up to a tree a foot in diameter. Most of the transplanted trees have done tolerably well, and I approve of transplantation in some cases but my opinion is, that transplanting a tree after it is, say, four or five years old dwarfs it more or less, and also tends to bring some species too soon into a bearing state. This, in a great measure, can be obviated by picking off the blossom, trenching, pulverising, and rectifying the soil at the extremity of the roots. A tree which has been transplanted can be more safely transplanted again; but will such a tree, with its numerous matted roots, extend as far in search of nutriment as, and become equal in magnitude to, a tree either planted young, or sown or grown on the spot?

The rules for pruning given in your review of Cruickshank's book are excellent. Sylvanus and Agronome seem to differ much in opinion on that point. In thinning a plantation of

Scotch pine and larch (say from 20 to 30 years old, if it has been very thickly planted, which is the only way to make clean wood, the lower branches being all dead), I prune up the trees 6 or 8 ft. This is necessary in order to see how to thin them properly, and will do them no harm, provided due care be taken not to bark the trees to be left. Some years ago I pruned some thriving larch, from 50 ft. to 60 ft. high: the branches were sawed off as far up the tree as they were dead at the time, 25 ft. or thereabouts; of course the trees did not bleed, therefore were nothing the worse. Now, it is plain that, when those trees come into the hands of the carpenter, they will be freer from loose knots than had the trees continued to enclose part of the branches until they dropped off naturally.

In short, I am an advocate for raising all forest trees, if possible, from seed; trenching ground that will grow hard wood trees, and keeping it clean a few years after planting; planting young, i. e. strong, well-rooted plants not above four years old; stunted plants being headed down; pruning from infancy; summer pruning, although only thumb-pruning (a person will do a great deal of good this way, by going over a young plantation in the month of June); and last, though not least, keeping in view that leaves are the lungs of trees.

On the other hand, I do not approve of pruning tree roots at the time of planting, unless they have been damaged; planting evergreens in this part of the country earlier than April; pruning the same while the branches to be cut off are alive; soft-wooded leaf-trees as nurses for hard-wooded trees; or twin-stemmed and double-topped trees. If one of a double-stemmed tree of the pine tribe be cut off the other will die, except it is done while the tree is young: hence the propriety of looking over plantations.

Agronome seems not pleased that all the tops of the hills in Scotland are not covered with wood: many of them in this "northern corner are so. The summits both of hills and mountains have been planted but have not grown; their tops being almost solid masses of rock with scarcely any covering of soil, and it may be that their height is an obstacle to the growth of trees. More barren ground might be planted: but thousands of acres could be planted in Scotland, and grow the very best of Scotch pine, &c. At the same time, from being inaccessible, and distant from a market, the wood, in all probability, would not be worth a shilling to the proprietor. I am, Sir, yours, &c.

Aberdeenshire, Sept. 1830.

W. T.

ART. XIV. Description of Mr. Groom's Tulip Bed. By J. M.

FLORISTS have found that tulips are liable to injury if exposed to frost and rain, especially during the months of February, March, and April. To secure these favourite flowers from such casualties, Mr. Groom, the eminent florist at Walworth, near London, has constructed a model of a tulip-bed frame, which not only admits of the perfect protection of the plants, but also very much facilitates the arrangement, planting, and covering of the roots.

The bed, which, in the first place, is trenched 3 ft. deep, is raised by side and end boards, framed together, to the height of from 12 to 15 in. above the surface of the ground. It is 4 ft. wide within, and of any required length. The prepared soil is raised to within 3 in. of the top. For the purpose of levelling the surface accurately, Mr. Groom uses a thin piece of board called a strike. This is longer than the width of the bed, and has notches near each end 34 in. deep, which fit on the upper edges of the side boards; and, on being moved from end to end, lays the surface into the desired form. The lower edge of the strike is not straight but curved, so as to leave the surface of the mould about 2 in. higher in the middle than at the sides.

When the surface is thus regulated it is ready to receive the roots; their places are marked with the greatest ease by means of the strike. Seven rows are planted lengthwise of the bed, at the distance of 6 in. from each other and from the sides. Of course the strike is divided into eight spaces. At the marks between the spaces, small staples, one about 2 in. above the other, are driven into the flat side of the strike; these receive seven small pegs or dibbers, which, when the strike is put down across, mark the places of the bulbs. The distances between the cross rows, viz. 6 in., being marked on the sides, regulate the insertions of the strike.

From this description it may easily be conceived with what accuracy and expedition the planting is done. The roots being deposited in their places, are now covered with the proper compost; and the surface is smoothed off with the back of the strike, which, for this purpose, is formed with a curve and shoulders which take in the whole width of the bed and side boards, against which last the shoulders slide while the strike is moved onward to take off the redundant covering, leaving the surface regularly rounded from side to side, 6 in. higher in the middle than at the sides.

When the season arrives that coverings against frost, &c., are necessary, iron rods, three fourths of an inch in diameter,

and bent into a regular form, are fixed over the bed. These bearers are kept in place by the upright parts of them being inserted into two staples, one above the other, driven into the side boards at distances of 2 ft. 6 in. apart, the first being fixed at the end. These bearers rise from the edge of the bed to what may be called the eaves of the awning, 2 ft. 6 in.; and then slopingly upward and over, forming an obtuse angle like a ridge over the middle of the bed. To connect these bearers, fillets of thin deal are fixed along the eaves and on the top or ridge, and thus a frame is formed sufficiently strong and steady to support any covering of mats or canvass which may be necessary for the safety of the plants.

139

The annexed sketches of the frame (fig. 139. a) and the strike (b) will assist in giving a right idea of the construction of the former and the form of the latter.

This frame and covering is only intended to preserve the tulips till they begin flowering; after which, Mr. Groom advises that they should be shaded and sheltered by a larger and loftier awning, as is his own practice.

ART. XV. On the Genus A'ster. By T. RIVE'RE, Esq.
Sir,

I Do not recollect seeing in any of your Magazines a treatise on the A'ster; perhaps many readers will say it is not worthy of it, being so common, and to be found in almost every cottager's garden. However, I will endeavour to point out such beauties of the flower as have fallen under my practical observation. Asters which bloom in August, perhaps, may not be worth attention, being eclipsed by a host of showy herbaceous plants and annuals, and above all by the splendid Georgina: but even then they have their own beauties, in which they at least equal most of the flowers at this time in bloom. Their extreme hardiness, their facility of propagation, and their thriving in almost any soil, however poor, are certainly inducements for their introduction into gardens, where the occupiers cannot bestow much attention on the cultivation of flowers: but where cultivation and taste are combined, the Aster, as in other flowers, can hardly be deemed the same, either in the strength of the plant or size of the blossoms; for instance, I have one in my garden, Lácteus altíssimus, or

French white, which is now 12 ft. in height, and the other kinds are in proportion fine. The under-mentioned sorts are in flower from the 12th of August, and continue to the middle of September. I grew one clump of them, and have inserted the height each sort attains for the information of any one who may be disposed to bloom them in a similar manner; of course, the highest in the middle, the second highest next, and so on, and the shortest outside.

dually, but forms a perfect umbel

Corymbosus, large reddish blue flowers

4 3

21

Very handsome 13

Solidaginöìdes, small curled white flowers; singular and pretty

But August presents a meagre collection; nor is it of much consequence, for, as before observed, there are then plenty of flowers in bloom. But I presume, when I come to describe the asters in bloom from the first of October, and during the month, I think I shall be able to point out such beauties in the flower, and to convince (I am myself convinced) the lovers of the flower-garden, that there is no herbaceous flower during the month of October to be compared with the A'ster, its species and varieties.

1

Pulchellus, or globòsus, small white flower, red stamina

The 10th of October, this season (1829), we had a killing frost. On Michaelmas day, on surveying the numerous tribes of flowers which the day before shone with resplendent beauty, behold the melancholy appearance! The splendid georgina, king of autumnal flowers, turned black and withered, and pretty well all the annuals had shared the same fate. I would ask what flowers the borders produce to ornament the month of October. None but the A'ster, the only hardy perennial which blooms at the beginning, and continues throughout the whole month; and why should one month, and that rather a dreary one, be left unornamented with the beauties of Flora?