and, of course, very small, are to be removed from a tree having nine or ten tiers of branches upon it; the residue of branches left upon the tree being, by Mr. Pontey's Pruner, seven tiers, and by Mr. Cruickshank's quotation four tiers: but let any one read from p. 179. to p. 190. in Pontey's Pruner, and he will discover a still greater difference between Mr. Pontey's ideas of pruning firs, and Mr. Cruickshank's assertion regarding the number of branches to be removed, than is shown even in this statement.

A fir, too severely pruned, sometimes bleeds at intervals, till it regains its proper quantity of branches.

Oak, ash, elm, &c., under such circumstances, throw out lateral branches upon the stem, and near the largest wounds. Pontey's practice produces none of these effects. But to return; Mr. Cruickshank says, "Let any person remove this number of living branches," &c. Mark the matchless modesty of the man: "Let any one try the experiment,"-an experiment that is to be of three years' duration. Has he not already tried it? If so, why not assert it? Possibly he has cogent and special reasons moving him thereto. It may be in this case also that his opinion is founded rather on careful calculation than on actual experience. However that may be, I am not about to state that the extent of pruning he mentions would not in some trifling degree, for a short time, affect the progress of the plant: it certainly would. Nor am I alone in this opinion; for I find a note in Pontey's Pruner (p. 185.), which says, in the Transactions of the Society of Arts, vol. xxiv. p. 68., we have a paper "on the advantages and method of pruning fir trees," by Mr. Salmon, surveyor and wood-agent to his Grace the Duke of Bedford, which clearly shows the propriety both of pruning and cutting close. The opinion of a person so intimately acquainted with the application of timber cannot fail to be conclusive on these points. Still I think his theory, both with regard to the quantity of tiers of branches to be taken off at once, and the period to elapse between the prunings, is highly objectionable. For a long observation has convinced me, that "taking a large quantity of branches from a fir, at once, disorders it so far as considerably to retard its growth, even in shelter." But has our worthy author indeed written a book of 440 pages upon this subject, and has he still to be told, that, even allowing the tree at this age in the first instance to be somewhat too severely pruned, the first or second year's growth would again set the matter right; and has he also to be told, that the cut produced by the taking off of branches from one quarter to half an inch in diameter, being the size alluded to both by

Mr. Pontey and himself, is in three years not only covered with resinous matter but also with bark? Oh, Shame! where is thy blush!!

Mr. Cruickshank proceeds: "The taking off of a few branches will not, of course, be so injurious as the displacing at once of a great number; but none can be displaced, as the above experiment will show, without materially retarding the growth of the plant." As correctly would he argue, were he to state, that because fire uncontrolled would destroy the house, a little, well managed, is not desirable, and beneficial also.

By this time your readers will have become a little curious to know how it happens that pruning should not be bencficial to firs. The fact is, that, though Mr. Cruickshank tacitly acknowledges, by his remarks on pruning the ash, elm, &c., that Mr. Pontey's demonstrations with regard to pruning firs are correct as to producing clear and straight timber; yet it would not be quite so convenient for him, and the superannuated theory he has adopted, to state in so many words, if you mean to have the greatest quantity of fir timber, fiee from knots, you must prune; that would be showing the cloven foot too clearly. It suits his drivelling ideas better to attempt by a side wind to degrade what he dare not openly attack, by stating that pruning injures fir trees, simply because they bleed after such operation; and to insure such bleeding to those who try the experiment, by misleading the public with the misquotation complained of: the fact beingand I here dare Mr. Cruickshank to the proof (not to the assertion) — that not a single acre, nor any quantity of plantation of from twelve to twenty years' old, or upwards, either in England or Scotland, which has from its planting been managed by Pontey's theory strictly, has been either entirely or at all injured by such practice; but, on the contrary, when compared with those under the non-pruning system, will turn out very much superior.

I am aware of the estimation in which anonymous communications are held, but my insignificant name would add little to their weight; I shall therefore, with all due respect, remain, Sir, yours, &c.

Barnsley, Sept. 22. 1830.

A YORKSHIREMAN.

OUR opinion is, that both Pontey and Salmon were wrong in their theory and practice, as to pruning pines and firs. It is very well to defend Pontey, no longer with us to defend himself; but it is more for the interest of science to acknowledge that he rather overpruned the pine and fir tribes. this opinion we particate with many others.- Cond.

In

ART. XIII. On Pruning, and other Points in the Management of Timber Trees. By W. T.

Sir,

By this time, I suppose, the authors of the two books lately published on arboriculture (one at 21s., the other at 12s.) are aware that they have not given the public much new on the subject which they undertook to illustrate: at least, those who have added to their own practical experience an acquaintance with the works of the scientific and professional writers on tree culture, will not be easily convinced that they have derived much information from the books alluded to. However, these books, in common with others, will be the means of raising a spirit of enquiry and investigation in this hitherto partly neglected branch of culture.

Gardeners, in general, are now not so ignorant in horticultural chemistry and vegetable physiology as some would imagine. Many gardeners, I trust, will join me in saying that we are much indebted to the Encyclopædia of Gardening, in which we have the essence of the best writers on all points of importance, both within and "without the garden walls." At the same time, it must be admitted that there are some gardeners who think arboriculture below their notice; others, perhaps, know more than they are allowed to put in practice. It is but fair that he who pays the piper should make him play as he pleases: notwithstanding, if the piper can play better, he should beg to be heard; and, after having given proof that he does not overrate his abilities, it is likely he will be allowed to go on in his own way.

I have had some experience, during the last 17 years, in planting and transplanting trees, from a two-years Scotch pine up to a tree a foot in diameter. Most of the transplanted trees have done tolerably well, and I approve of transplantation in some cases: but my opinion is, that transplanting a tree after it is, say, four or five years old dwarfs it more or less, and also tends to bring some species too soon into a bearing state. This, in a great measure, can be obviated by picking off the blossom, trenching, pulverising, and rectifying the soil at the extremity of the roots. A tree which has been transplanted can be more safely transplanted again; but will such a tree, with its numerous matted roots, extend as far in search of nutriment as, and become equal in magnitude to, a tree either planted young, or sown or grown on the spot?

The rules for pruning given in your review of Cruickshank's book are excellent. Sylvanus and Agronome seem to differ

Scotch pine and larch (say from 20 to 30 years old, if it has been very thickly planted, which is the only way to make clean wood, the lower branches being all dead), I prune up the trees 6 or 8 ft. This is necessary in order to see how to thin them properly, and will do them no harm, provided due care be taken not to bark the trees to be left. Some years ago I pruned some thriving larch, from 50 ft. to 60 ft. high: the branches were sawed off as far up the tree as they were dead at the time, 25 ft. or thereabouts; of course the trees did not bleed, therefore were nothing the worse. Now, it is plain that, when those trees come into the hands of the carpenter, they will be freer from loose knots than had the trees continued to enclose part of the branches until they dropped off naturally.

In short, I am an advocate for raising all forest trees, if possible, from seed; trenching ground that will grow hard wood trees, and keeping it clean a few years after planting; planting young, i. e. strong, well-rooted plants not above four years old; stunted plants being headed down; pruning from infancy; summer pruning, although only thumb-pruning (a person will do a great deal of good this way, by going over a young plantation in the month of June); and last, though not least, keeping in view that leaves are the lungs of trees.

On the other hand, I do not approve of pruning tree roots at the time of planting, unless they have been damaged; planting evergreens in this part of the country earlier than April; pruning the same while the branches to be cut off are alive; soft-wooded leaf-trees as nurses for hard-wooded trees; or twin-stemmed and double-topped trees. If one of a double-stemmed tree of the pine tribe be cut off the other will die, except it is done while the tree is young: hence the propriety of looking over plantations.

Agronome seems not pleased that all the tops of the hills in Scotland are not covered with wood: many of them in this "northern corner" are so. The summits both of hills and mountains have been planted but have not grown; their tops being almost solid masses of rock with scarcely any covering of soil, and it may be that their height is an obstacle to the growth of trees. More barren ground might be planted: but thousands of acres could be planted in Scotland, and grow the very best of Scotch pine, &c. At the same time, from being inaccessible, and distant from a market, the wood, in all probability, would not be worth a shilling to the proprietor. I am, Sir, yours, &c.

Aberdeenshire, Sept. 1830.

W. T.

ART. XIV. Description of Mr. Groom's Tulip Bed. By J. M.

FLORISTS have found that tulips are liable to injury if exposed to frost and rain, especially during the months of February, March, and April. To secure these favourite flowers from such casualties, Mr. Groom, the eminent florist at Walworth, near London, has constructed a model of a tulip-bed frame, which not only admits of the perfect protection of the plants, but also very much facilitates the arrangement, planting, and covering of the roots.

The bed, which, in the first place, is trenched 3 ft. deep, is raised by side and end boards, framed together, to the height of from 12 to 15 in. above the surface of the ground. It is 4 ft. wide within, and of any required length. The prepared soil is raised to within 3 in. of the top. For the purpose of levelling the surface accurately, Mr. Groom uses a thin piece of board called a strike. This is longer than the width of the bed, and has notches near each end 34 in. deep, which fit on the upper edges of the side boards; and, on being moved from end to end, lays the surface into the desired form. The lower edge of the strike is not straight but curved, so as to leave the surface of the mould about 2 in. higher in the middle than at the sides.

When the surface is thus regulated it is ready to receive the roots; their places are marked with the greatest ease by means of the strike. Seven rows are planted lengthwise of the bed, at the distance of 6 in. from each other and from the sides. Of course the strike is divided into eight spaces. At the marks between the spaces, small staples, one about 2 in. above the other, are driven into the flat side of the strike; these receive seven small pegs or dibbers, which, when the strike is put down across, mark the places of the bulbs. The distances between the cross rows, viz. 6 in., being marked on the sides, regulate the insertions of the strike.

From this description it may easily be conceived with what accuracy and expedition the planting is done. The roots being deposited in their places, are now covered with the proper compost; and the surface is smoothed off with the back of the strike, which, for this purpose, is formed with a curve and shoulders which take in the whole width of the bed and side boards, against which last the shoulders slide while the strike is moved onward to take off the redundant covering, leaving the surface regularly rounded from side to side, 6 in. higher in the middle than at the sides.

When the season arrives that coverings against frost, &c.,