These axioms of Italian fashion are not unknown to the haut-ton of other countries; and it cannot fail to be perceived that conjugal infidelity and wretchedness are every where in proportion to their influence. They soon descended, with their fell brood of ills, upon the bulk of the Italian people; and if they have not found favour with the mass of the French and English, after having gained ground among the beau-monde of those nations, it is from peculiar causes which it is not material for us to explain.

The author of the "Rambles" landed in the winter at Trieste, "the richest city of Italian Illyria, and now the most promising and flourishing port in the emperor of Germany's dominions." He describes thus its general appearance and character:

Daylight showed us the city of Trieste, with its country houses rising one above another on the sides of the neighbouring hills. Every object wore the melancholy livery of winter. On our left rose the Alps of Tyrol their peaks glowing with purple stains of light, were mingled with the rich colouring of the clouds, that rested upon them. The snow upon the hills, the leafless vineyards that covered their sides, the smoke hovering over the city,-its buildings, constructed with a view to comfort more than to beauty, conveying an idea of the honesty, plainness, and solidity of the German, rather than of the pleasures and elegance of the graceful and ardent Italian.'

'The Bora is the rudest of all the Alpine blasts, that infest the Adriatick. Collecting in its passage over regions of snow their icy particles, it sweeps down upon Trieste with the fury of a levanter. It does not blow uniformly and steadily, but in puffs, which shake to their foundations the most solid edifices. Ships are, however, in danger of being driven by it from their stations, and carried to sea with inconceivable velocity. But in summer, when the Adriatick is resigned to the dominion of the zephyrs, its tranquil surface throws an air of softness and repose over the landscapes on its shores, which then become the resort of gayety and pleasure. The promenade called St. Andrea, made by the French government, extends from the city along the edge of a breezy precipice. Here parties assemble to enjoy the beauty of the prospect and the freshness from the water. Greeks and Albanians are seen carelessly lying on the very brink of the precipice, or reclining on beds of flowers watching some arrival from their native country.'

'The manners of Trieste and those of the Italian cities, do not essentially differ. Its annexation, indeed, to Austria, should its present political relations prove permanent, may in the course of time, lead to the introduction generally of German manners and German opinions; but in all other respects at present, Trieste is an Italian city. Like all the other ports of the Adriatick, it contains a very mixed population, and displays a great variety of costumes. This intermixture of Asiatics, Africans and Europeans, is not unpleasing to a mind, conversant with the Romances of the East, to which this infusion of foreign dresses and manners suggests pictures that have amused the fancy of childhood. Commerce has here brought together the sun-burnt Saracen, and the

It is not unusual to see a rich

fair complexioned sons of the north. Constantinopolitan merchant attented by a black page, attired in cashmere and muslin, mixing with the cheerful concourse, which in the evening crowd the haunts of fashion.'

He is particular in his account of the opera and the carnival of this motley city. He remarks, and justly, in speaking of the opera, that the highest degree of perfection attainable in the art of pantomime may be looked for among the Italians, who appear to possess beyond any other people, the requisites for it; muscular flexibility of countenance, vivacity of imagination, and a forcible and impassioned style of gesture. Hence the Italians are without rivals in buffoonery, which Forsyth pronounces to be one of the principal appetites of the nation. Of the masquerades of the carnival, our countryman speaks in a spirit and language which have our hearty approbation.

The hour of assembling is midnight; and the opera house, the temple of those impure rites and nocturnal mysteries, which "the bitter day would quake to look on." The mask is no sooner put on, than the veil of modesty is laid aside. Women and men abandoning themselves to the intoxication of pleasure, appear to be ready to engage in unexampled feats of libertinism. An impure fire that is contagious, appears to infect the very atmosphere of the room, and to cheat the senses with illusions. The endearing expressions of cara and bella mascherina, pronounced in a soft falsetto note, vibrate sweetly upon the ear. The understanding is subjugated by the power of music, and the voluptuous dances of the waltz and the manfrino, exalt the spirits to that giddy height, which accomplishes the destruction of many a fair Belinda, although encompassed with all her ærial guards.'

The influence of masquerades upon the moral and social habits of a people, is of sufficient importance to point it out, as an object of solicitude, to every government, but more especially to those with whose political and moral institutions, the principles of liberty are interwoven. Even under monarchies, where, perhaps, the practice cannot be eradi. cated, its noxious luxuriance may, and ought to be repressed. It would be entirely subversive of the morals of a republic, and if introduced into America, would infallibly banish those virtues which in point of manly morals and social comforts, justly entitle this country to the foremost rank among nations.'

The profligate manners of the higher and lower orders in the great cities of Italy, no doubt spring from this source, as well as from its voluptuous climate, and the want of objects to call into activity the moral and intellectual energies of the nation. The brilliant carnival of Venice accelerated the fall of that republic. The Venetian nobility, whose policy it was to debase the minds of the people, by offering to their love of pleasure its appropriate nourishment, withdrew their passions from higher objects, and unfitted them for exercising a control over the higher classes.'

We cannot follow our traveller in his investigation of the comparative operation and popularity of the French and Austrian do

minion over Trieste and the Illyrians. He makes several interesting and striking observations; of the justness of some of which, we are not, however, perfectly satisfied. It would seem from his statement, that the Austrian government is far from being popular in the Adriatic, though not quite so actively oppressive as the French had been. Buonaparte emptied the pockets and paralized the commerce of the Triestens; but he amused them with festivals and illuminations; swept away their beggars; suppressed some antiquated abuses, and constructed public works of ornament and utility. The Austrian monarch has more of the character of King Log; he does not devour, but then he does not move. He will not divert the interior trade from the ports of the Elbe to those of the Adriatic; he has left the police in all its despotic vigour, and his financiers and tax-gatherers are not in the least abstemious. What with their exactions, a depreciated paper currency, the failure of considerable manufactories, the inertness of the Austrian cabinetthe commerce of Trieste and Fiume languishes, that of Venice is threatened with total ruin, and misery and discontent overspread generally the Austrian diminions situated around the head of the Adriatic. Our traveller cannot believe, judging from what he learned and witnessed there, that even the German provinces of the empire are in as flourishing a condition as they might be.

We think, without being admirers of the structure and spirit of the Austrian government, that he has allowed himself, both at Trieste and Venice, to see, with respect to its administration, only the dark side of the picture. The prior condition of the Adriatic territories, the character of the inhabitants, their municipal institutions, should be well considered and understood, before censure is hazarded for tardiness in great reforms, or the continuance of abuses even of apparently easy correction. If we might found an opinion upon the reports of late travellers, and the ample, authentic work of Marcel de Serres, entitled, Statistical and Geographical Essay upon the Empire of Austria, we should be inclined to believe that her German provinces, though not at their maximum of prosperity and happiness, are administered in a way well adapted to the genius of their population and the development of their resources. The Emperor Francis has credit with the world, for an anxious attention to the commercial prosperity of his Adriatic ports; and our traveller ascribes to him the best intentions; marred, however, as he alleges, by too pliable a temper. We can conceive that there may be inherent difficulties in the alleviation and renovation of his Italian dominions, and suspend our judgment, therefore, as to the irresolution of his counsels.

The introduction of any foreign dominion into Italy, is greatly to be deplored:-the spirit of ambition which prompted, and of tyranny which accompanied it, is to be for ever detested. But as

was destined to become a prey to her rapacious neighbours,

it was fortunate for her that a considerable share of her territory fell to Austria. The Austrian rule was not only much less mischievous and unjust than the Spanish or French, but in several respects highly beneficent, considering the helplessness and comparative ignorance into which the Italians themselves had sunk. It is to the Spaniards that they may ascribe their worst vices and heaviest misfortunes. No one is ignorant how much the house of Lorraine accomplished for Lombardy, and how much Tuscany owes to Leopold,-more, says Sismondi, than any state of Italy to any sovereign, foreign or domestic. As to Venice, whose condition in the hands of Austria, our traveller so bitterly laments, and so deeply shadows, it was France that extinguished her independence, and sacrificed her to Austria. The French either plundered or destroyed the stores and shipping and defaced the edifices of the Arsenal; exhausted her resources and despoiled her of her trophies of arms and arts.t

Our American traveller offers the following as the general result of his inspection and inquiries.

'The state of the public mind in this quarter of Europe, as it fell under his observation in the years eighteen hundred and sixteen and eighteen hundred and seventeen, indicated a temper by no means favourable to a state of lasting repose; and causes were continually occur. ring still more to exasperate and inflame it. The impetuous and fiery disposition of the Italians; urging them at every opportunity to express their contempt for the Austrians, whom they consider a dull and spiritless nation, without the heart to conceive, or the hand to execute any daring or generous enterprise of policy or ambition. The Austrians, on the other hand, regarding the Italians as a degenerate race, long habituated to the yoke of a foreign power, always cherishing the idea of emancipation, but never ripe for action, and in whom the spirit of liberty evaporates in vain boast and menaces.'

We pass over the many engaging pages which he has devoted to the Italian theatre and music, and to the works of the eminent dramatic writers, Metastasio, Goldoni, and Alfieri. It was exceedingly difficult to say any thing new on these hackneyed subjects, and it is a great deal to have invested them with any degree of fresh attraction. We pass over, too, in order to arrive with him the sooner at Venice, the rich description and sound philosophy with which he fills the remainder of his second section. -He presents the queen of the Adriatic to his readers with much felicity and truth of detail.

* Lord Byron has turned her decline to good account in his fine poem

' empty halls

Thin streets and foreign aspects, such as must
Too oft remind her who and what enthrals,

Have flung a desolate cloud o'er Venice' lovely walls.'

Canto 4th, Childe Harold.

The poet's illustrator, Mr. Hobhouse, has furnished in one of his notes an easy clue to the disaffection of the Venetians. To those who wish to recover their independence, any masters must be an object of detestation.'

VOL. XII

† See on this head, Eustace, page 74, vol. i.

3

'I embarked for Venice in the month of May. The rocky coast of Istria, clothed with spring, presented a variety of cultivated and savage prospects. Gardens and country-houses climbing up the sides of the neighbouring hills, and intermixed with vineyards, and boschetti, afforded a pleasing contrast to the rocky scenery, with which they were interspersed.

A light breeze wafted us across the Adriatick. In the course of our voyage, we gazed with wonder upon the neighbouring Alps, which rose from the margin of the sea, and showed themselves in their grandest forms. But our attention was soon attracted by another object no less marvellous and striking; for Venice began to appear with all her towers, domes and palaces, floating upon the waves, over which she still seemed to reign undisputed mistress; but when we entered her deserted harbour, the evidences of ruined grandeur, reminded us that the trident she once triumphantly wielded, was fallen from her grasp. 'We landed upon the quay of St. Mark, among its mountebanks and marionettes. Groups of women and children, stood laughing at the comic feats of Polichinello. The idle gondolieri, basking in the sun, called out to us as we passed, or disputed among themselves with all the caustic wit and vehemence of gesticulation, characteristic of Venetian vivacity. A sort of improvisatore, stood in the midst of a circle, with the impassioned gestures of an orator, recounting anecdotes of Joseph the second, and episodes and adventures from Tasso and Ariosto, to which he gave a colouring and imagery of his own. The Venetian florists displayed the fairest offerings of the spring upon the quay. Orange trees and myrtles perfumed the air, and near the shade of these, the bird-fancier hung his cages of goldfinches and nightingales. Glasses and jars filled with water, were disposed upon neat tables, and intermixed with perfumes and cordials, and "chi vuol acqua," was vociferated from twenty places at the same time, with importunate vehemence. Persons of the lowest condition were to be seen frequently approaching these tables, and purchasing a glass of water, for which they paid a centesimo. In St. Mark's square, near the arcades, were erected beautiful tents, as a shelter from the rays of the sun under which a people were assembled, whose countenances were marked with no indications of laborious tbought, but who appeared to be enjoying in these seats of delicious repose, those vague illusions of the fancy, which the soft climate of the South, and the thousand amusing objects around, were calculated to inspire.'

So many magnificent objects, so many admirable monuments of the arts, as this amphibious city contains, so many glorious recollections, and awful reflections as its history awakens, open a vast field for an ambitious writer. Our countryman expatiates at large, and indulges, we think too freely, his propensity for description. We shall not accompany him through the noble churches with which he was surrounded, nor among the master-pieces of the pencil and chissel, with which her fairy palaces abound; but attend to her actual moral world and altered fortunes. The following passages are culled at random:

The intoxication of sensual delight, appears to have transformed human life at Venice, into something little better than the vision of a waking dream. Yet this life, the surface of which appears so unruffled,