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OF

CALIFORNIA

TACOMA.

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though they do not object to Sunday departures; and, therefore, neither thence nor hence could the return boats work on the Saturday. But on the evening of Sunday we were released, and sailed forth on Puget Sound. One object in the distance, however, there was which engaged and, indeed, monopolized my attention-Mount Tacoma. As a fine snow and glacier mountain, it stands in the very first rank of all my own mountain remembrances. Towards sunset it took on the very choicest of hues, partly owing to an atmospheric effect produced by the smoke arising from the forest fires, so frequent and so extensive in these regions at this particular period of the year. But this colouring of the air is too often deepened into gloom, and conceals rather than adorns. On my second evening, Saturday, the smoke was far too dense for the picture, and I missed my sunset gaze while sitting in the long open verandah of the hotel, yearning after the view of the Friday. This was most disappointing, but perhaps has served to render all the more vivid my one recollection of Mount Tacoma.

CHAPTER VI.

BRITISH COLUMBIA-THE CANADIAN PACIFIC

RAILWAY.

SUNDAY, the 25th of July, was a dull, heavy day, nor did the depressing view of a large, shallow salt-water lake in front of the hotel serve to enliven its hours, which hung upon us till half-past six in the evening, when we went on board the steamer for Victoria. Thus I left the States, but only to return after I had paid my visit to British Columbia. I must confess that I had not prepared myself for any fine scenery in Puget Sound, and I realized my anticipations in this respect. We passed what I should describe as merely low islands, very numerous and flat, and covered with dull dark pine trees, of no striking character in themselves. Whether the scene might have been enlivened by mountain scenery beyond, I know not, for the forest fires had spread their smoke abroad to a very disagreeable extent. We touched at Seattle on our way, and arrived at Victoria at about one o'clock in the afternoon on Monday, the 26th. Here I went to the Driard House Hotel, kept by Messrs. Redon and Hartnagel, where I found

everybody very attentive, but every room unfortunately occupied. This so happened because all the intending excursionists to Alaska were still crowded there, the expected periodical steamer not having arrived at its appointed time from Portland to take them on. Nor was it until quite towards the night that a private lodging could be found for me. Not only were the Alaska passengers a burden to the hotel, as they were, of course, to themselves, but it so happened that Sir John Macdonald was there, as well as Sir George Stephen and Mr. Van Horne of the Canadian Pacific Line. This, though an advantage in itself, contributed to the pressure of the moment; while, to soothe any impatience natural to a newly arrived traveller with his baggage, I was facetiously informed that "even the U.S. Chief Justice Waite had had to wait." While it is said that it is not unpleasant, being yourself at ease, to behold another's difficulties, this sort of feeling is not equally excited by merely knowing that you are in only equal difficulties with others, and as my-perhaps-chief object in coming to Vancouver's Island had been to course over the vast mountain ranges of the Canadian Pacific Railway, I made up my mind to get out of the pressure and to be off upon this mission as soon as possible. I therefore went to call on Mr. Alexander Munro, the manager of the Hudson's Bay Company, to whom Mr. Armitt, the secretary in London, had been good enough to give me a letter of introduction. On seeking my way there, I was labouring

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under a piece of ignorance which (like so many others) travelling about has helped to remove. forth I went with this great hunting Company's name upon my mind, expecting to find a glorious display of nothing but surpassing furs; whereas, what I found was a large storekeeper's magazine, containing almost everything, great and small. I had had no notion of the varied business carried on by this Company, nor to what extent these remote western districts were dependent on them for their manifold necessities. Mr. Munro received me with all courtesy, and, hearing of my wishes, immediately took me to the offices of the Steam Packet Company that worked to Port Moody. There I learned that Captain J. Irving, also connected with the railway, was going across on the following (Tuesday) night to meet Mr. Abbot, the general manager of the line, to whom also I held a letter, so that I immediately took my ticket to accompany him.

The whole of Tuesday being before me, I availed myself of letters which the chairman of the Hudson's Bay Company had been good enough to furnish me with, and called on Sir John Macdonald, with whom I had a long and pleasant interview, in the course of which he strongly recommended me to go as far as Calgari on the line-that is, completely through the mountain ranges, and on to the fertile plains below. The advice was excellent, and the distance six hundred and thirty miles. I don't think I did much more that whole day than gaze upon the beautiful

Olympian range of mountains, bold and sharp in outline, and of dark blue rock, decked with adorning snow. I wandered about the town, and wandered only, for there could not be much of very striking interest in Victoria, outside the interest that one must naturally take in the dawn of a far west young city, precursor of its undoubted day. The boat did not actually start till two o'clock on the Wednesday morning. I had, therefore, no more grievances to growl about as regards a settled "location," for I went on board the usual form of saloon boats out there after dinner, and passed the night in a very comfortable bed.

At about one o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Port Moody, after a passage without any incident that rests on the memory, and Captain Irving at once introduced me to Mr. Harry Abbot, who at once furnished me with a pass for Calgari. The train was also a matter of "at once," for it ran in connection with the boat, and it was a case of "Jump up, jump up!" Mr. Abbot told me, to my great content, that he and Captain Irving were coming on together the next day, and he recommended me, therefore, to stop at a place called Yale, about ninety miles on, and there wait for them to go on together to Donald, four hundred and forty-six miles, where they would stop on business. Meanwhile, my journey of to-day was brightened by the companionship of Mr. Lacey Johnson, the master mechanic of the line.

We arrived at Yale at the appointed hour, five minutes past seventeen o'clock. That is the hour

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