and gilding. The stucco ornaments of the ceiling were very beautiful, and.it had no less than five organs. In the orchestra of one was a band of music assisting in the service. It being Sunday, and during service, we could not view the interior to so good advantage; but had a fine opportunity of seeing the people. The women of the peasantry had on their singular helmet-shaped head dress of gold tissue or black lace, the shape similar to that of the shell of the Nautilus. They were most of them horribly disfigured with the goitre, as is the case in all these mountainous countries, and one thing unaccountable to me, is that more of the women seem to have these, and have them larger than the men. It may be that the men, as in most countries, drink less water, and more drink of a stronger kind than the women, as it is said to be the snow water that causes the swelling in the throat, and the peasantry are much more afflicted than those of the better classes.

On one side of the cathedral is a beautiful fountain, said to be the most beautiful of any in Europe north of the Alps. There are four colossal figures, each representing Atlas, bearing on their shoulders a huge shell, on which are carved with much truth and nature, amphibious and aquatic animals--turtles, frogs, eels and shell fish. On the four sides of the grotto are arched doorways, or openings, out of which come enormous sea-horses spouting water from their mouths and nostrils, and each of the four in a different attitude or position. A few paces distant is a fine bronze statue of Mozart, who was born and buried at Salzburg. The city is, howeever, more celebrated for its external than internal beauties. It is said to be the most beautiful spot in Germany, and many prefer the scenery of its mountains, lakes and valleys, to the finest scenery of Switzerland. It is the "Imavia" of the Romans situated on the river Salza between two precipitous heights; on one of these is the castle, an irregular feudal cita

del, commanding the town and surrounding country, built in the eleventh century. It resembles much the height and castle of Edinburgh, but the surrounding scenery is superior to the highlands of Scotland. From the convent terrace, on the brow of the Capu Cineburgh, we had one of the most splendid views that I remember ever to have seen. The ascent is fatiguing and difficult. From the base to the summit are placed shrines illustrating incidents in the life of the Savior. At the top of the pathway is a calvary, and at the entrance of the convent is the sepulchre, with our Savior in the tomb, and on another compartment the vacant tomb with an angel seated by it, the three Marys at the door, while the guards are lying around near the entrance. The view from the convent terrace is beautiful in the extreme, according to Mr. C's description, but the monk would not admit the "vrow," (wife,) and so I had to wait outside. This convent belongs to the Capuchins, whose dress is of brown stuff; some of them permit their beards to grow a foot, and all have long ones. They wear a knotted cord about the waist, with their rosary and beads attached--the sides of the head are shaven so as to have only a rim or circle of hair around the head. I was not permitted a view here, so we walked to the summit half a mile further, from one side of which you look upon mountains covered with snow and glaciers; in the distance the castle on its rocky height, and the town below with its centre, and the whole enclosed on this side by one chain of mountains rising above the other till their snow clad summits are lost in the clouds. From the other side of the summit you have scarcely a vestige of the mountains on the former side, but look down upon the valley of the Salza, tracing its course for miles and miles till it dwindles into a silver thread. Such a transition from mountain to valley, from snow-clad heights to green and verdant pastures, is rarely to be met with, and this was but

a foretaste of the delightful and picturesque scenery of the vales and mountains of "the Tyrol" towards which we were speeding. Among other things Salzburg is memorable for the sufferings of its people in the cause of Protestantism. They were persecuted in every way, but still clung to their faith. At last, in 1727, they were expatriated to the number of thirty thousand, and found a refuge in Russia, Poland and America, while to crown their sufferings, parents were torn from their children, they being to the number of one thousand taken to be educated in the Roman Catholic faith. We left this charming place at one P.M. and were at Munich at six the next morning, where we spent three days viewing all the novelties of this unique city.

MUNICH-A CITY OF FRESCO, ITS CHURCHES, PALACES― GLYPTOTHEK AND PINACOTHEK-ENGLISH GARDEN-TYROL, ITS SCENERY AND PEASANTRY-VALLEY OF THE INN -THE HOUSES, COSTUMES, TYROLESE ALPS --INSPRUCK

&c., &c.

PRODUCTS--THE

HOFER - PATRIOTISM OF TYROLESE,

Milan, September.

WE arrived at Munich early on the morning of Monday, September 18, and commenced our sight-seeing in company with a Russian officer, who had been our travelling companion from Salzburg, and whose society we found very pleasant and agreeable, especially as he spoke English perfectly. I had heard many of the English express their admiration of Munich, and all as it seemed to me because it was new, this unique city having been renovated during the reign of the present King Lewis I, of Bavaria, father of Otho, King of Greece. I thought to myself, if you wish to see new cities built in a day, you had best go to America, but I soon found that it was not the newness of creation but of style, that so charmed them, everything was so entirely different from anything their previous travel had offered. The King of Bavaria is very rich, and has at his own expense built many fine churches, palaces and theatres, as well as temples for paintings and sculpture. Everything here is al fresco. The exterior of his buildings, generally, is exceedingly plain, in the Byzantine style, while the interior is brilliant and gorgeous beyond description. His own palace is mostly painted in imitation of the buried ones at Pompeii,

and contains a

wit

ine collection of antiquities, dug from that city and Herulaneum, under his inspection, and at great exsome fine antique mosaic pavements. It contains pense; al an ingerable series of rooms, the walls of which are filled frescoes or variegated marble, the ceilings are fresco d gold, the floors, pillars and staircases of rich marble. Very many of the floors are a mosaic of different colored wood, very beautiful, and with a surface so polished and slippery that you seem to be walking on ice, and you may think yourself fortunate to go through them, and keep yourself perpendicular. The ground hall contains a series ofstatues of gilt bronze, fourteen in number, representing princes and electors of Bavaria, each in the costume of the time in which he lived. They are each ten feet high, and cost five thou sand dollars each, and the same for gilding; they were designed by Schwanthaler. The cathedral built of brick is four hundred years' old, has two tall dome-capped towers three hundred and thirty-six feet high. It contains a very imposing monument to the Emperor Lewis. Four Bavarian knights are kneeling at the corners, and two dukes standing on either side, all in bronze. Over the tomb is suspended from the wall the hat of Cardinal Cleselius, who began the world as a baker's apprentice. St. Michael's or the Jesuits church, built in the Italian style, is remarkable for its lofty arched roof, unsupported by any pillars. It contains Thorwaldsen's monument to Eugene Beauharnais, Duke of Leuchtenberg; a full length statue of the Duke attended by a muse and the Genii of life and death. The church of St. Lewis just completed, not yet consecrated, has two towers, and is built of brick, faced with white marble. The pillars, altars and pavements are of a composition in imitation of marble. Behind the altar is a fine fresco of the last judgment, by Cornelius, one of the best things about the church. The windows, though of superbly painted glass, are too