294

CATALONIAN COSTUMES.

Then, the walk and carriage of the donnas is as easy and graceful as that of the dons is lordly and majestic. There is the Catalonian peasant, wearing a large square blanket, striped with red and other bright colors, its ample folds thrown over his shoulder, and its gay fringe of colored balls or tassels dangling hither and thither as he walks.. On the head they wear a woollen cap of some bright color, with a long end hanging down the back, or folded back and forth upon the head. Some among them wear black velvet hats, with low pointed crowns, garnished at the top and bottom of the crown with two huge rosettes. Many wear handsomely ornamented buckskin gaiters, laced up behind; others immense boots, reaching above the knee.

At this time there was an unusual degree of life and bustle, for all were on the qui vive in expectation of the arrival of Marie Christine, the queen mother, now on her return from Paris, where she fled three years since. They are erecting a triumphal arch near the hotel; it is made of wood and painted canvass, surmounted by an immense gilt crown, and, though not yet complete, it bids fair to make a very good appearance. In the grand square they were raising an Egyptian obelisk, also of canvass, covered with hieroglyphics, at night to be illuminated by two thousand lights. The churches and other public buildings were ornamented with hangings of crimson and gold, or blue and white, with silver ornaments. Troops of soldiers were continually marching up and down, others in squads of a dozen or so, I suppose to awe the people; for all this is done, of course, by the royalists. The military will probably receive her with open arms, but it is doubtful if even they will with open hearts. The people, gathered in little knots, seemed engaged in interesting discussions, showing letters and papers to eath other; all apparently in too great excitement to settle to their ordinary occupations.

Instead of leaving the next morning, as we expected on our landing, the captain received an order from the governor detaining the boat till an express could be sent to the queen mother, at Perpignan, to know if she would wish to use our steamer; in which case the passengers and cargo would be left here till the queen was conveyed to Valencia, when the boat would return for the passengers. This was provoking, and we wished her majesty out of our way, at least; but there was no help for it, and we were forced to wait and abide the answer the express might bring.

In the meantime we had to while away the hours as we best could. We walked, as did half of Barcelona, up and down the "Rambla." At the end of it are some splendid edifices. One, formerly the college--suppressed in the middle of the eighteenth century, by Phillip V.-is now a caserne, a barrack for soldiers, At one end of it is a fine church, probably the chapel of the university; it is carved all over in diamonds, giving it an unique and singular effect. Not far distant is a ci-devant convent, now converted into a place for dog-fights. Near this is a palace of the kings of Arragon, ornamented with rich carving over the doors, windows, and along the balcony of the top. On the opposite side were other fine buildings-palaces of the nobility-painted all over in fresco. Very many of the houses are ornamented with frescoes of different kinds. Some are painted in colors, like oil pictures; others in black and white, like engravings; while others are different from any we have ever seen, and seem to be made by having the figures scratched when the plaster was fresh, like a semi-bas relief. We walked through a number of streets where there were fine shops, but filled mostly with French goods. The ladies are really beautiful, and walk and carry themselves with a great deal of grace.

The first evening, hearing there was to be an opera, we

296

SPAIN MOUNT JOUY.

with the Frenchman and Swede, took a lodge at the theatre; but we were disappointed, there being only a comedy and vaudeville, and being unable to understand a word, were all of us very sleepy. We had, however, very good music, and a national dance-el bolero--after which we left. The next morning we passed playing cards with the Frenchman and Swede, and parted, hoping the morning would bring a summons to depart. But it not coming, we the next day sallied out for a walk to the fortress of Mont Jouy. This being the highest ground in the neighborhood, afforded us a delightful view of the city, as well as of the harbor, and far out into the open sea. A richly-cultivated plain extends from the city to the mountain that rose abruptly with a ridge of snow-capped Pyrenees, enclosing a plain dotted throughout with villages and towns, (we could count at least a dozen,) and the roads leading to them were as distinct as the lines on a chart. Turning at intervals to see the changes in the scenery that every step in our progress seemed to make, we reached at length the gate of the citadel. The sentinel would not allow us to enter, but a young officer politely came forward, and inquired if we had an order of admission. We said "no;" but upon telling him we were passengers in the steamer just arrived, he said if we would wait a moment, he would send and endeavor to obtain us admittance; he was unsuccessful, so without much regret on my part, we retraced our steps.

While at dinner, the captain called to say that an answer had arrived from the queen, who, not wishing to go on so soon, would take the next steamer; so we were at liberty to depart. We left the next morning at ten. The wind was high, and the sea rough-at least, sufficiently so to cause an unpleasant feeling, and make a horizontal position the most comfortable. We sailed near the coast, and were

charmed with the scenery and the color of the mountains; but the wind and sun were too much for me, and fairly drove me below, where I remained till after dinner, and then went on deck to see a fine sunset.

VOYAGE TO

MALAGA-APPEARANCE OF THE COAST OF

ANDALUSIA-ENTRANCE TO MALAGA.

Valentia, Spain, March.

THIS morning we anchored in the harbor of Grao, the port of Valencia; the city being situated some three miles distant from the sea. We were landed by a large row-boat filled with a motley assortment of luggage and passengers. The vehicle that conveyed us to Valencia was primitive enough, and anything else than inviting, but it would not do to be fastidious where there was no choice. Though there was no variety, there certainly was no deficiency in number; they are constantly conveying people to and fro, from the port to the city, and number, we are told, four thousand. In appearance, they are much like our ice-carts; drawn by one horse, the driver having a seat on the hinder part of the right shaft. You enter in the rear by means of a crooked stick placed across from one side of the vehicle to the other, the floor is a netting made of ropes, and the seats, running like those in an omnibus, from end to end, are hung on leather straps. The horse goes only on a walk, for the vehicle, being without springs, a faster gait would jolt the life out of all within. There were seven of our party, drawn by a miserable, raw-boned beast, that looked as if he might claim indisputably to be a lineal descendant of Don Quixotte's Rosinante.

Near the landing, we passed a long row of government