264 BALL AT THE PITTI PALACE. of candles, which he had already collected. We entered one church that we happened to be passing, it was quite curious to see the multitude of candles on and around the different altars. Some were lighted, but most of them were held in reserve. And now I will close my letter, by giving you a description of a ball, which we have attended during our stay; the only one I cared about, though the gentlemen of our party have attended two others. This was one given by the grand duke in the Pitti palace, which, besides affording a residence to the Ducal household, contains one of those exquisite collections of two paintings, for which Florence is so celebrated. The palace is located on high ground, and the road through the grounds leading to it, was brilliantly illuminated. Men in handsome liveries stood waiting to receive us, as we alighted. The floors of the vestibule, the halls and galleries were all carpeted, and every part illuminated. In the guard-room, were soldiers and servants in livery, to take our cloaks, &c. In the ante-room were the consuls and ambassadors of different countries, to introduce to the grand chamberlain their several countrymen. The representatives of the different countries waited upon the ladies into the ball room, seating them in a line, to await the grand duke's entrance for their presentation, the gentlemen of their party standing near them. There was a great number to be presented, and the room was soon filled with ladies, glittering in jewels and satins, and gentlemen brilliant with their many and different stars and orders. The ball-room was very splendid. The walls were hung with blue damask, the ceilings and cornice adorned with beautiful stucco figures, representing dancing and games; the furniture was white and gold, with cushions of rich blue damask, and the floor covered with green baize. On all sides of the room were immense mirrors reflecting and mul THE BALL-ROOM. 265 tiplying all within, and on each side of every mirror, a candelabra; a golden tree, with green branches tapering like a cypress tree, each bearing a hundred wax lights. Other lights were placed in magnificent girandoles and chande. * liers, making in all six hundred and twenty lights. A fine orchestra was stationed aloft, in the recesses of three arches on one side of the room; and rich curtains of blue and white, draped the windows opposite. On one side of the ball-room was the guard-room, and on the other was the sallea-manger, where was a table spread with plates and dishes of massive silver. Ranged on the shelves on one side were the edibles of every description, and on the other liqueurs and wines of every kind and clime; with glasses of every form and color interspersed. In the centre of these delicious viands, surrounded by flowers, which filled the room with fragrance, was a beautiful marble statue of a dancing girl, who seemed to have just bounded from some other sphere, and lighted in the midst. Beyond this room was one smaller and more private, where was a table spread with cakes and tea, glittering with gold and silver; and in both were attendunts in rich liveries, to do the honors. After waiting half an hour, the grand duke and royal family entered, and all rose to receive them. They each in turn conversed with gentlemen stationed near each other; all of whom wore badges of some order, until they came near those who were to be presented; then the grand chamberlain, profusely decorated with different stars and badges, drew near to name each one, and each one was noticed, and had some conversation addressed to them, by the differ. ent members of the family, in turn. This was somewhat stiff and formal, and occupying considerable time, proved not a little fatiguing to those unused to court ceremonies. The grand duke himself wore three superb stars on the breast of his coat; but otherwise was habited in a plain and simple 266 THE GRAND DUCHESS. dress. He is very affable and unassuming in manner, moving about among all, seeming to delight in the enjoyment of those around, visiting the different rooms, and appearing quite gratified with the provision made for the entertainment of his numerous guests. The grand duchess is a fine looking woman, and was very richly dressed with a tiara, necklace, and stomacher of superb diamonds. The arch-duchess, who is engaged to the young prince of Bavaria, is very pretty; and the two betrothed seemed very fond of each other, dancing together all the evening. The young prince wore one brilliant star; and though looking very good natured and happy, is not at all handsome. The ladies of the court, the dames d'honneur, were dressed very richly, each with their badge of honor fastened near the left shoulder. And no where have I seen such a display of dress, diamonds, and other splendid ornaments; and there was, too, quite a display of beauty. The music was fine; the ices and other refreshments excellent and ample; and the ducal family and their honored guests, seemed all to enjoy themselves exceedingly. We left about two; and then, though many had previously departed, they seemed at the height of enjoyment. The card-rooms were still filled with players, and the drawing-rooms occupied with those fatigued with dancing, or who did not dance at all. And now we take leave of Florence-the lovely and the beautiful-one of the few places that will cause one to cast many a longing, lingering look behind; and leaving such an impress upon the memory, as to induce us to wish to be again on the banks of its beautiful Arno. We remember it with more affection; but our thoughts do not revert to it, with that interest that is ever called forth by the "pyramid of empires," Rome! "There is given Unto the things of earth, which time hath bent, FAREWELL. A spirit's feeling, and where he has leant His hand, but broke his scythe, there is a power For which the palace of the present hour, Must yield its pomp, and wait till ages are its dower." 267 268. PISA. TUSCANY LETTER XXIX. THE PEASANTRY-PISA - THE CATHEDRAL CAMPO SANTA-LEGHORN-THE CARNIVAL-WOMEN SPIN NING-CARRARA. February, 1844. AT Pisa, I commence this letter, fearing, unless I begin thus early, I shall not find time to say all I wish, as our movements will be somewhat rapid between this and the 20th, when we intend to sail from Toulon for Algiers; returning thence, we hope to reach the port of Marseilles, and there take steamer, and sail along the coast of Spain, visiting such cities as the steamer touches at, without venturing in the present disturbed state of the country much into the interior. With the "Etrurian Athens," we have been quite delighted, literally charmed and are fully prepared to coincide with the assertion, that as Italy is the garden of Europe, so Tuscany is the garden of Italy, and Florence the fairest lily of the garden. The city seems placed in the bottom of a huge bowl, the green and sloping hills that environ it, are the sides, and the points, peaks and cones of the Appenines enclosing the whole, form a beautiful turretted edge. These verdant hills are rolling and undulating, and besides being covered with groves of olive, fig trees and vineyards, are studded all over with the beautiful villas of the nobility, and the lovely village of Tuscany. These snow-capped mountains, rearing their heads upwards into the clear blue sky, bounding as they do, the horizon on every side, the lovely Arno winding itself in graceful bends through the centre of the city, with its many beautiful, light-arched bridges cross |