EXCURSION TO TIVOLI.

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LETTER XXVII.

THE OPERA-TIVOLI --ITS CASCADES-- PRESENTATION

то

THE POPE-HIS MODE OF DILUTING WINE-HIS APPEAR HORSES-CRAWFORD, THE SCULPtor,

ANCE--BLESSING

TERRY AND FREEMAN, &c.

In the evening, Mr. C. with a friend, went to the Opera. I from choice remained at home, considering a quiet evening by the fire-side a luxury above all others. The other day Mr. C. had sent home to me a collection of mosaics, from which to select one for myself. There were very many beautiful ones, and I should have found the choice very difficult, and perhaps been scarcely satisfied with any selection I might have made; but among them one caught my eye directly, and my choice was fixed. It was no other than the celebrated landscape of Gaspar Poussin, taken from the road to Tivoli, including the Ponte de Lucano, and the tomb of Plautius Lucanus, the same that hangs behind the parlor door at home, and with which I have been familiar from childhood. It really seemed to me the most lovely thing of the kind I have ever looked upon, and I have since thought whether it be in reality so beautiful as it seems to me, or if my admiration is owing to association and attachment. all events, it is the copy of a celebrated picture by a master hand, as also a true copy of nature, as I had an opportunity of judging, when we made an excursion to Tivoli ; which I was desirous of doing, chiefly to see this view.

At

Our excursion to Tivoli occupied a long day, and was very delightful. The road makes some steep and high

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ARTIFICIAL CASCADES.

ascents, affording extensive and delightful views over lovely vallies and a beautiful campania. We passed on the road a canal leading from a sulphur lake, about a mile distant, and the smell coming from it was dreadful. The water in the canal is of a milky whiteness. The town of Tivoli is beautifully situated on an exceeding high cliff, steep and precipitous, yet covered with a rich verdure even at this cold season, and looks upon the old city of the Sabines, and upon a valley sufficiently lovely to be the Arcadia of Rasselas. From these heights, and into this vale, fall the cascades of Tivoli. These are artificial, the water being brought from the river Almo, or rather the river itself is turned from its natural course, and led by a subterranean canal to the ledge of rocks, and precipitates itself down its verdant and grassy sides, into the valley below. The rock itself is said to be formed of a deposition from the water, mixed with the branches and roots of trees petrified; in the neighborhood of Tivoli is a small lake, possessing this petrifying quality to a great degree, and in these rocks near the different cascades, (for there are many,) you will see grottoes with large and beautiful stalactites ornamenting their roof and sides. The waters of these cascades are led by canals or aqueducts, to different places. In one place, it is made to fall from the windows of a magnificent villa; in another, it is brought through two subterranean tunnels, which unite their waters into one cascade. There are several of these cascades one after another, at short intervals, and you view them from the ́opposite side of a narrow valley, or gorge, and the view of the town on its rocky heights, with these beautiful cascades rolling down its grassy cliffs, is lovely beyond description. I had the nicest little donkey it has ever been my lot to ride upon; I could mount from the ground without assistance, he was so small; yet he was so ambitious, that he would allow neither man nor beast to be in advance of him. There

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was an inundation of the river in 1826, that carried away a bridge, and destroyed the largest and most beautiful cascade, by forcing away the rocks over which the water fell. On the summit, overlooking this cidevant grand cascade, are two beautiful ancient temples, one of the Tibertine Sybil, and the other of Vesta.

The road commanding all these fine views takes us a round of about four miles, and passes the ancient villas of Quintillius Varus, Mycæ, and Horace. I know not when or where we have seen finer scenery, or passed a more de'lightful day; and such verdure in the middle of winter, seems to us almost magical. Leaving Tivoli, we returned through a grove of thickly planted and luxuriant olives, extending many miles. We stopped at Adrian's Villa, and went over every portion of its field of ruins. Every thing that was valuable or curious, has been carried to Rome and other places, to decorate palaces or fill museums. The different parts and portions have all been named, but they are so very ruinous as to afford little pleasure or interest, save to the antiquarian and historian. It is an extensive mass of brick and mortar, and the reflections and associations arising from these, by past glories of the great departed, is all that gives them interest.

This is our last day in Rome. To-morrow we leave for Florence, after a stay of over a month in the Eternal City-little enough, too, in a place where every inch of ground is fraught with interest. We have one memento of our visit here, which, I think, will not soon be forgottenour presentation to Pope Gregory XVI., which took place yesterday afternoon. We were honored with a private and particular audience, which is considered very complimentary. There is no such thing as a public presentation, as at other European courts. Persons requesting a presentation, send in their names through the proper authorities,

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PRESENTATION TO THE POPE.

their respective ambassadors, &c. It is made known to the Pope, and when a sufficient number of names have been received, so that he can lump them, and go through with a good many at once, he names a day and hour for the ceremony. A friend who is with us, had letters from the highest Catholic authorities in Canada, the Superior of the St. Sulspice, to the Cardinals and clergy generally here. These have acquired us greater facilities than we should otherwise have had. It was announced to us that we were to have an audience on Sunday, three P. M. A young Roman, to whom we bore a letter of introduction, and who is the private Secretary to the Pope's Secretary of State, was to present us to his Holiness. Gentlemen are expected to appear dressed entirely in black, ladies in black or dark dresses, without bonnets, but covered with a veil of white or black. So ourselves, our friend, and an American artist, who has rooms next to us, were accompanied by the Signor P. and our valet, who was to take care of cloaks and hats. We alighted at the Vatican, passed the Swiss guards in their unique costume, ascended the private staircase, then through many lobbies and corridors, to the Sixtine Chapel, where were other officers of the household, stationed, some dressed in black velvet and silk, others in crimson damask. We passed through the chapel, and out of the private door, by which the Pope enters then through other apartments to a long gallery. Here we remained till announced to his Santita, amusing ourselves in the meanwhile in studying the antique maps, painted all frescoe on either side, and admiring the beautiful fresco paintings from the pencil of Raphael, which cover its ceilings. In fifteen minutes, we were ushered out of this, into a small room near by. The signor requested the gentlemen to remove their white gloves, which they had considered so essential; as they must appear with heads and hands uncovered. This done, we entered.

The

HIS MANNER AND APPEARANCE.

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usual ceremony is to kneel on entering the door, in the middle of the room, and again at his feet; besides which, all good Catholics kiss the gold cross on his slipper, as well as the ring on his hand, the stone of which bears some holy symbol. This the Signor did, both on entering and going out. Considering it only as a court etiquette, Protestants generally are willing to go through the necessary genuflexions. One young English girl persisted in an unbending stiffness, despite the remonstrances of her friends; when the Pope said, "Urge her not; we do not exact it--but we think an old man's blessing can do her no harm." The room of reception was not large-longer than widethe floor covered simply with green baize-the windows draped with crimson silk and embroidered muslin. There was no other furniture than a large table covered with scarlet cloth reaching to the floor. On this was a large,. rich, and heavy gold writing establishment. Behind the table was a platform, on which was a large chair, both covered with scarlet cloth. This was at the end, opposite the door of entrance; and in front of this, with his back against the table, stood his holiness to receive us. We each bent the knee on entering; but he immediately motioned.with his hands to have us rise and come forward. We obeyed, bending and bowing as awkwardly as stiff-necked republicans might be expected to do." Mr. being in advance, knelt at his feet; but the Pope reached out his hand to prevent him. He, however, not understanding it thus, took hold of it, and rising, gave it a hearty, friendly shake, quite a la American. We were introduced severally by name, and the place each came from named. He then addressed each separately, asked questions, related anecdotes, was perfectly affable and easy, and quite garrulous; conversing in Italian; though he understands French. He was dressed in a long robe of white cloth, buttoned all the way down in