That of Titus has on one side of the interior of the arch, the conqueror in a car of victory; on the other, Jewish cap. tives, the table, the seven-branched golden candlestick, and representations of other spoils from the temple of Jerusalem. It certainly detracts somewhat from our admiration, even when standing within its portals, that it was erected as a triumph over the downfall of Jerusalem, the Holy Hill of Sion, and of those favored nations whom the Almighty had chosen as His own peculiar people. And in our lamenta. tions over the fall of the once glorious city, we almost forget that the chosen people had become unworthy to dwell within its sacred precincts. We closed the day with these, but took advantage of the fine moon-light evening that succeeded, to behold the Coliseum by the brilliant, but chastening light of a broad full moon. We wandered over its different stages, rising one tier above the other, and through its many arcades, obtaining through the open arches beautiful views from without; and the effect of the moon-light streaming through the various openings, into the vast area within, was extremely beautiful. In the delicious stillness that reigned around, the imagination had full play, and after gazing as we had, upon the life-like images of the dying and falling gladiator, and the disc players in their various attitudes, it was not difficult to people it with the voluptuous populace that once filled the immensity of space before us; not forgetting the poor persecuted christians, who were also here made to play their part, for the amusement of the blood-thirsty multitudes, who thronged to glut their appetites with these cruel entertainments. How great the contrast now! the scene so quiet and peaceful; shrines and crucifixes line the area where the victims played their part; and where thousands once rushed in to enjoy the bloody spectacle, soldiers guard the entrance, that now visitors

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THE COLISEUM BY MOONLIGHT.

may enjoy the scene safely, and without interruption from bandits or assassins:

"The moonbeams shine,

As 'twere its natural torches, for divine

Should be the light which streams here, to illume

This long explored, but still exhaustless mine

Of contemplation, and the azure gloom

Of an Italian night, where the deep skies assume

Hues which have words and speak to you of heav'n,

Floats o'er the vast and wondrous monument,

And shadows forth its glory."

I consider this evening an era in my life, the scenes of which are for the feeling, and not for description; such as secure a resting place in the memory for ever.

THE BATHS OF TITUS.

241

LETTER XXVI.

STATUARY-EXHIBITION AT THE PROPAGANDA—THE QUIRINAL PALACE-THE PANTHEON-CAPITAL-TARPEIAN ROCK-STREETS, THEIR SINGULAR NAMES-THE BARBERINI PALACE-VESPER SERVICE.

Rome.

THE next day was passed in a similar manner, riding from ruin to ruin, and church to church. We visited again the forum, and the many ruined temples that once beautified and adorned it-at the Coliseum, the arch of Titus and of Constantine we remained to study thence to Trajan's column, covered with beautiful bas reliefs, and standing amid the mighty ruins of a temple that formed a part of his forum-then to the palace of the Cæsars, which covers with a mass of ruins and heaps of rubbish the whole of the Palatine Hill-to the baths of Caracalla, showing still beautiful remains of the mosaic that once formed its ceiling and pavement, and where is an immense hall, used by the bathers to swim. At the baths of Titus, some of the frescoes are as fresh and perfect, as if lately done. Here was found the celebrated group of the Laocoon, and the huge granite basin now in the Vatican. Here, too, was the palace of Nero, and the house of Horace and Virgil. But I feel that we see too much and too many things of interest, to enjoy them as we ought. They will prove, however, a sure provision for after reflection.

The next day being Sunday, we went with some friends to a large room, which the English have been allowed to fit up as a place of worship outside the city walls, near the Pi

242

THE QUIRINAL PALACE.

azzo del Popolo; and I do not remember to have seen a place of worship, except on an extraordinary occasion, so well filled. After church, we took the road leading to the Pincian Hill near by, where is the public promenade of Rome. It affords a lovely view, a fine promenade, and a good carriage road, and is much frequented, particularly on a Sunday, between the hours of twelve and four. A little farther on, near the place d'Espagne, are the houses once occupied by Poussin, Salvator Rosa, and Claude Lorraine. On the steps descending to the place d'Espagne, were seated a picturesqus group of Calabrian peasants, with their novel costume, and primitive looking bag-pipes, composed of reeds and the skin of a pig.

In the afternoon, Mr. C. with a friend, made use of their tickets of admission to the exhibition at the propaganda. The students were from almost every part of the world, each delivering a short oration in his native tongue-altogether about forty different languages. There was one from Washington, United States, one from China, and also from all the intermediate countries. They returned very well pleased, if not edified.

Another day, we accepted an invitation of some friends to share their permit to see the Quirinal palace, and the pope's private collection of Etruscan antiquities at the Vatican; both which require a special permission. Being the pope's summer residence, it was at this time divested of some of its furniture and garnishing. There was no great degree of splendor-some fine specimens of the arts, such as paintings, bas reliefs, a very pretty chapel for his private devotions, and a profusion of crosses, crucifixes, &c., in the dif ferent apartments. A billiard table in one of the apartments, struck us as singular; but upon inquiry, we were told it was placed there by Napoleon, and had been suffered to remain as a memento of him. Leaving these, we drove to

the Vatican to see the Etruscan antiquities. Many things were similar to a multitude of the same kind we had already visited. The personal ornaments of fine gold, beautifully wrought, were the most novel and curious, and showed the perfection of the art in that early day. An ancient chariot or car interested me, as did the interior of some ancient sepulchres or tombs, with every thing found in them. We were shown also the gardens of the palace, which are extensive, affording from many points fine views; but laid out in that quaint and formal style that is rather outrè and strange, than beautiful. We took leave here of our friends, and after visiting a fountain, a church, and an ancient theatre, drove to the Pantheon, perhaps the most beautiful, and certainly the most perfect monument of ancient Rome, and to me more interesting than any other. It still retains its original form and dimensions, and the finish of the interior remains the same, though robbed of its exterior decorations of gold and bronze. It has no windows, but is lighted by a circular opening in the centre of its dome. The body of the building is circular, supported inside by beautiful columns of precious marble, resting on a pavement rich in porphyry and granite. The whole interior is encrusted with rare and costly marble, and contained originally three rows of niches, the lower intended for statues of the infernal deities, the second for terrestrial heroes, and the higher for the celestial divinities. Its piazza is a market-place, with a pretty fountain, and an obelisk of Egyptian granite, covered with hieroglyphics. The Pantheon serves as a tomb for the remains of Raphael, Annibale Carracci, and some Cardinals of note. "A sanctuary and home of art and piety," a

lic of nobler days and nobler arts."

66

re

The next day we visited the capitol, "despoiled yet perfect," and the collection of paintings and statuary it contains. Here, we find the celebrated dying Gladiator, An