ASCENT OF THE CONE.

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we should enjoy a fine sight, as the volcano was unusually active, and themselves had been highly delighted. Another party passed us soon after at a quick pace, keeping their guides as well as their horses on a brisk trot. When we started in the morning, the air was so frosty and chill, that cloaks and coats were necessary, but instead of finding the cold increase as is usual in ascending mountains, it was more and more warm as we neared the summit, and we were obliged to throw off some of our thick covering. Two thirds of the way up is a convent, where we halted, and without dismounting, drank some of the "lachryma christi," for which the vineyards of Vesuvius are so famous. Half a mile beyond this we dismounted, leaving our horses (who could go no farther) with the guides. From this point the gentlemen proceeded on foot, aided by good stout walking-sticks, and a guide who preceded each, with a leathern strap over their shoulder, to which the gentlemen held fast, and I in a chair fastened to poles, and borne on the shoulders of four men. We could see those who had gone before, some near the top, and others midway, looking like ants toiling up an ant-hill. Our pathway led over a bed of broken lava, the overflowings of the volcano during the eruption of 1839, five years before. The line of march was up the face of the cone, stepping from one large block to another, which afforded firm footing to say the least; but as we neared the summit, it became more and more steep, and consequently tiresome. This is, however, but a small part of the whole, and stopping to breathe occasionally, we at last attained the height of our ambition. I had apparently an easy time of it. My sympathy with my bearers, however, was so great, that to me the journey was a toilsome one, and I have made many a long walk with less fatigue, and certainly less pain; were I to attempt the ascent again, I would prepare myself with a pair of stout walking shoes, and accomplish it

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THE CRATER FROM OUTER CONE.

on foot. I am sure my bearers were not more rejoiced or relieved than myself, when I was permitted to take my stand with the rest on the summit of the cone.

The captain of our guides pointed out a cave on a shelving rock, asking me to take a seat within. I did so, and found the smoke and vapor issuing from its side and roof, the earth warm to the hand, and the temperature delightful. The gentlemen who had passed us, from being well mounted, as well as from our party having to adapt their speed to the motions of my little donkey, determined to go his own slow pace in spite of the energetic "ahs and ughs" of the guides, who would sometimes in their impatience, give him a lift behind that almost sent him heels over head, and me with him, had far out-stripped us. We found them seated on the ground, cooking eggs in the warm sand, and gazing delighted upon the workings of the volcano below. We drew near the edge of the crater, whence we could look upon the inner cone, and joining ourselves to their party, were soon participating in their delight. You will readily believe that in the vicinity where we now stood, the temperature was some twenty degrees warmer than at Naples in the morning. We were seated on the inner side of the outer cone. The mouth or crater, is three miles in circumference, and from where we were to the depth below, more than three hundred feet. In the centre of this yawning gulf, arose another cone ninety or one hundred feet in height— this may be called the lip of the volcano. During our visit it was very lively and active. The explosions were inces. sant, like the firing of artillery, and every few seconds there was a noise loud as the report of a cannon, accompanied with an eruption. A volume of smoke, red at the base, and black as it rose, issued from the glowing caldron of the fiery crater. At each of these loud reports, which seemed like the bursting of a bomb, within the huge furnace, a

quantity of red hot stones, some of them two or three feet square, were thrown up to a great height, and were continually adding to the pile of loose and broken lava of which this inner cone is composed, a self-raised monument to its own fiery deeds. These, though red and glowing, when thrown up from its burning orifice of living fire, fall dark and black amid the heap of debris around. On the side of this inner

crater, at the time of our visit, were two openings as large as a man's head, from which issued a fiery smoke. These, though frequently changing their locality, continued always in the same proximity to each other.

A gentleman who was of our party, visited the volcano again a few days after, and then these openings had united, forming a lesser crater in the side of the cone, throwing up fiery stones and smoke like the larger one. While seated quietly and calmly on the inside of the outer cone, looking with an intensity of wonder and admiration at the mysterious workings of this singular phenomena, I felt within me the workings of that quality, which men attribute peculiarly to females, and call curiosity, but which I, quite willing to admit the property, am more disposed to denominate a laudable desire for the acquisition of knowledge. I really could scarce restrain my inclination to explore these inner regions, and discover what was doing below there to cause such a commotion above; but as I have not the fame of a Pliny to leave behind, I concluded it best not to tempt his fate, by too near an approach to the yawning burning pit, so contented myself with gazing upon it from the secure position in which I was very composedly and comfortably eating some of the eggs that the guides had roasted in the burning sands near by, when, as if on purpose to disturb our delightful tranquillity, the wind suddenly changed, and blew the whole stream of sulphurous vapor directly in our faces, so that for a few moments we were almost suffo.

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cated.

DESCENT TO THE CRATER.

Our collation consisted of bread, eggs and fruit, and what was perhaps better, a draught of the real "Lachryma Christi," (what a drink for sinners, is it not? "the tears of Christ;" and what a name for wine, but they take strange liberties here with the Saviour and Virgin Mother.) The gentleman determined to descend to the depths below, and have a nearer view of the doings there. I remained above with Major G., who was not quite well, and some of the guides; in about ten minutes we looked down upon our venturesome companions, the two English gentlemen and Mr. C., who were standing near the two edifices, midway up the cone. Between the base of the outer and inner cone is a channel, or bed of lava, perhaps one hundred and fifty feet wide, which they told us had mostly formed during the last month. This was filled with cracks and crevices, and it was over this they walked to reach the inner cone. They put their sticks into these crevices, and they blazed instantaneously. Then putting pennies, and enclosing them in the still soft and yielding lava, they raised it in a portion of the lava with their sticks, and this feat performed, returned to us with their trophies. It looked venturesome, as we regarded them near four hundred feet below us, the red hot stones apparently falling around them, and when they reached us, bearing the proofs of their progress, the pennies enveloped in lava, were still so warm, that we could not bear them in our hands. They said some of the stones fell within three feet of them, and suspecting there was "malaria" in the neighborhood, thought it advisable to withdraw. The inner ascent is quite as fatiguing as the outer ones, and the gentlemen required a little time to recover their breath and strength. We then, with the two Englishmen, commenced our de scent. Instead of going over the broken lava, by which we ascended, our descent was made on the part co

DESCENT FROM VESUVIUS.

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vered with ashes or sand, mingled with blocks of lava. We amused ourselves with rolling some of these down the side of the volcano's peak, and so steep and precipitous is it, that they did not stop in their headlong course until some distance on the level at its base. The descent is accomplished with ease and safety if you go slowly; but every step you sink far above the ancle in ashes, and your feet being thus shackled, any attempt to go fast, brings you to the ground. One of the Englishmen with us, yielded to the force that impels you downwards, and from walking fast, was soon obliged to run. He could not stop himself, nor could his greatest speed answer to the greater impetus that impelled him on. He was at last precipitated forward many feet, falling upon his face among the stones and sand, where he lay like one dead. I cannot describe to you with what anxiety we had watched his rapid career with such rash and daring speed, expecting every moment to see him dashed to pieces. We hastened to the spot where he lay, and on raising him, found his face dreadfully cut and bruised, and bleeding profusely, as were also his hands. He soon recovered, and after a little time was able to assure us that scratches and bruises were all the injury he had received, though there were enough of them, and his really handsome face was sadly disfigured. He was quite sure he had seen more volcanoes than any of us, and said there was any quantity of fire where he first struck. We offered him our travelling companion-a flask of brandy-with which we are always provided, to use in case of sickness or accidents; with this he bathed his wounds, bearing it like a hero, but his friends would not allow of any inward application, nor did we think it advisable. They assisted him to rise, and after a little while he was able to proceed without assist

ance.

We did not forget in our descent to look upon the lovely