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cess to it. On our return to modern Syracuse, we overtook a party of Englishmen, coming from Etna, who in answer to our inquiries, said there was nothing more to be seen than at an ordinary time at Vesuvius; the eruption had entirely ceased, and the mountain was covered with snow, so low down, that it was only practicable to ascend a short distance. Their account threw cold water on our project; having heard of a terrible eruption lately occurring, we had hoped to have been in time to see something of it; we did not yet give it up however. We paused before the city walls, to look upon Ætna, which was very distinct; the setting sun shone full upon its snow-clad summit, gilding the sky behind with its bright tints, and showing the huge black peak of the volcano, with its column of smoke in beautiful relief; dark and heavy masses of clouds gathered around, fad ing and lessening till they were lost in the pale azure of the sky above. We continued gazing upon this lovely scene till we had passed the moat with its bridge, and portcullis, and under its magnificently carved gateway, which dropped like a curtain before our eyes, and shut out all behind. Inside the walls was a large tank or reservoir, filled with women washing clothes; here was formerly a fountain dedicated to Arethusa, who, according to mythology, was transformed by Diana into this stream, and in this form rceived divine honors from the Syracusans as their patroness. We had only time to dine, returning on board at six, P. M., the city gate closing after us, having spent a day delightfully interesting, and with very little fatigue. I carried with me some papyrus, such as was used by the ancients before the invention of paper; also some of the plant of which it is made, which grows abundantly here.

At seven the next morning, we anchored in the beautiful harbor of Messina. The place contains few curiosities of any kind, and little to interest a stranger. It is, however, a

handsome town, the houses fine and large, though not high, (from their liability to be toppled down by an earthquake,)every window having its pretty balcony. Its streets are of good width, finely paved, and ornamented with many beautiful fountains. But its chief beauty consists in its lovely environs, and the charming harbor of a crescent form, along which runs a fine quay or street, a mile and a quarter in length, following the curved line of the bay, and lined with magnificent buildings, fronting the water, ornamented, too, with numerous fine, large statues, and along the shore are vessels side by side, as close and thick as they can be placed. We took a carriage and drove about town; visited the cathedral, which has a singular front of brick-work mosaic, and contains twenty-six huge pillars of Egyptian granite taken from various heathen temples, some very good sculpture, beautiful specimens of the Florentine mosaic, and the cupola under which the high altar stands, is encrusted with well preserved mosaic of another kind. The cathedral stands on the Piazza del Duomo, where, is a magnificent fountain, and collossal statue of Carlo II. We next ascended a high hill to the church of San Gregorio, to which is attached a ladies' convent. It stands on a lofty eminence which you ascend by many steps, and commands an extensive view of the city, its beautiful harbor, and the rich and verdant country which surrounds it; it was indeed very lovely. The church is remarkable for the splendid mosaics with which it is completely lined; it is Florentine mosaic, of a rare and costly pietra dura, representing figures and flowers in all the bril liancy of their natural colors. It is surmounted by a singu lar tower, spiral in form, the ornaments of which wind round and round like a cork-screw, after the fashion of the Tower of Babel, as we see it represented in pictures. We passed a delightful evening at the house of our consul, with its charming host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs. P. and an Ame

rican gentleman, a captain of a vessel, now in harbor. We. slept on shore, leaving the next morning at nine. Passed soon the Scylla and Charybdis, so formidable to ancient navigators; nothing is to be seen above water, the waves having only the appearance of a counter current or rapid. In a few hours we came in sight of the volcanic islands, midway between Sicily and the main land, the largest of which, Stromboli, stands like an out-post between the two larger volcanoes, Ætna and Vesuvius, perhaps serving as a communication to either, or mayhap as a safety-valve to both, for it is never altogether quiet, but always issuing smoke and flame. After this we neared the Calabrian coast, stopping at a small town to land and take in passengers. We were soon surrounded by a swarm of well-filled boats; in them were the Calabrian peasants, with their narrow brim, sugar loaf hats and velvet bands. The town was built on high walls, on the summit of the cliff rising out of the water, and the vines, variegated by the impress of Jack Frost's fingers, made the hills look very pretty. The country along the coast has an irregular appearance, as if it might, at some prior time, have suffered from volcanic convulsions, but is beautifully verdant, well cultivated and fertile. Stromboli rising abruptly from the water, with nothing to obscure the view, its huge cone with its column of smoke streaming incessantly from its pointed summit, forming many clouds, extending and carried by the winds to a long distance, was a remarkable and interesting object all day, and which we did not tire of watching, and I shall not soon forget its appearance by the glowing light of the setting sun, or the still softer light of the young moon which made all beautiful at night.

The next morning we rose early that we might lose nothing on our entrance into the beautiful bay of Naples, but alas, though it was pleasant, and there was some blue sky visible, still it was cloudy, and there was a good deal of

-haze which prevented our seeing at a distance, and we were in the bay, and close to the beautiful city, before its beauties and wonders broke upon us. It was more beautiful than I at first thought, for I was bent upon making invidious comparisons between it and the lovely bay of New York; but there is such a decided difference in the features of the scenery of each, that both may be called most beautiful, nor need the praise of one detract at all from the merits of the other. The summit of Vesuvius was enveloped in clouds, looking very quiet and peaceable, and not at all the sleeping lion it actually is. The bay is a perfect crescent, completely lined with palaces, churches and other fine buildings diversified with arches and towers; and high up, reaching midway to the clouds, was a fine old convent, having more the appearance of a fortress, than the dwelling of such a quiet and peaceful order. Then the beautiful islands Ischia, Capri, and others, which so relieve the watery waste, when you look out upon the blue and boundless sea, with the extensive line of coast, and its green undulating hills, dotted with villas, far and near, is a transcendantly lovely scene. Vesuvius, too, can never cease to be an object novel and unique to a stranger's eye, nor to call forth feelings of wonder and awe, filled as it is with mysteries it neither loses or reveals. Enwrap all this, and more in your imagination, as it is enveloped in the soft transparent haze of this delicious clime, beautifying and mistifying all around, and you may fancy somewhat of the reality. I cannot take leave of you in a more beautiful spot, so now adieu.

NAPLES.

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LETTER XX.

DRIVE OF THE TOLEDO-KING

OF NAPLES--ANTIQUITIES

FROM POMPEII-EXCURSION TO VESUVIUS-ITS ASCENT -DESCRIPTION OF ITS APPEARANCE, &c.

In my last I had brought you with me fairly into “La bella Italia,"

"Land of departed fame! whose classic plains

Have proudly echoed to immortal strains;
Home of the arts! where glory's faded smile

Sheds lingering light o'er many a mouldering pile."

I detained you so long on the waters of the Mediterranean, and amid the novel scenes of Malta and Sicily, that I fear you almost despaired of reaching this land of sunshine and What stores have I not in anticipation? Rome, Florence and Genoa are yet before me; and amid scenes so fraught with interest as surround me in this "city of the waves," how can I dwell sufficiently on those by-past. What time is given me to reflect on all I have left behind, that they may be stamped upon my mind, and leave an impress on my memory that the coming ones shall not efface. But, not to keep you longer waiting, I will give you the events and scenes of each successive day of our sojourn in lovely Naples, "queen of the summer sea.”

While I was arranging my own matters and things to make myself comfortable in our pleasant quarters at the Villa de Roma, Mr. C., went out to see after our letters, which are usually the first steps taken on our arrival at any city. Learning that it was a grand fête day he returned to tell me; and despatching a man for our letters, that we