decks were soon dry, and looked white and nice; the brass ornaments which were in profusion, were cleaned, and for the first time since we had been on board, glittered in the sunshine. We had a good run for fifteen hours, then the wind changed, though the weather was still pleasant. We passed this day Cape Malea and the island of Cerigo, celebrated as the birth place of Helen, and as one of the haunts of Venus, where was a temple erected to her. We could distinguish the ruins and columns of one as we passed, but there is no certainty as to whom it was erected.

"There is a temple in ruin stands,

Fashioned by long forgotten hands;

Two or three columns, and many a stone,
Marble and granite with grass o'ergrown ;"

and that is all.

"Out upon time" that cheats us so.

After this, we rounded Cape Matapan, the most southern point of the Peloponessus, and then took our last look of Greece. We saw many pretty villages situated upon the slopes and hills of the cape, and passed and left behind several sail vessels that were rocking and tossing in a manner not at all enviable. An hour after, we passed the gulf where was fought the memorable battle of Navarino, Oct. 20th, 1827, which terminated the Greek war, and took Greece from the Ottoman power. The harbor is shut in by an island, the ancient Sphacteria, famous for the signal defeat the Spartans sustained here from the Athenians, and also as the scene of Byron's Corsair. Within the walls of the ancient fortress which surmounts the promontory above the town, was killed the gallant Count Santa Rosa, a Piedmontese refugee, August, 1825, and his tomb, with that of young Lucien Bonaparte, are shown on the island of Sphacteria. Leaving these islands and the rocky heights of the peninsula, we saw no more of land, the wind became more and more adverse, and by five o'clock was quite sickening.

I succeeded, however, in remaining at table, and was much the better for my dinner. An empty stomach is a great aid to sea-sickness; a full one I often find a preventive. I sat upon deck all of the following day with my book and “everlasting worsted work;" no land in sight, our prospect was extensive, for it was over a boundless sea, the air was soft and pleasant, but I was wishing for land, which was to bring letters; so the day seemed tediously long. About four I went below, but had not been long there when I was called to come up and see the sun set. I had been wishing the weather would admit of seeing a fine sunset on the Mediterranean. So I hastened up, and the west was truly gorgeous with the blaze of living light of the ail-glorious sun. It was not, however, an unclouded blaze; there were clouds above and around, but this rather added to than detracted from the exceeding splendor of the magnificent scene, for each and every one was lighted and colored by the brilliancy of the departing rays; and as the twilights are of very short duration, the majestic orb seemed to drop at once into the blue waters beneath, whilst the brilliancy of the hues above passed in quick and constant succession, almost in a glance, till in a few moments both sky and water were enveloped in night's dusky mantle, and all was sombre grey. Ere long, the clouds which had been hovering about the sun brought upon us a shower; but notwithstanding this, our eyes were gladdened in the morning by the prospect of another day of sunshine. The major called out to us from the gangway, "land ahead," always a cheering sound. We hastened to pack our loose articles and have all in readiness to debark, and nothing to do on our approach but gaze upon the unique and beautifully fortified island, made so famous in former ages by the Knight Templars of St. John. We seemed to be still in the open sea; the land looked like a blue haze in the distance. Nought met the view save the

166

ST. PAUL'S VOYAGE.

horizon, accumulating rapSoon the barren and rocky

numerous sail which dotted the idly as we neared our harbor. coasts of Malta were visible, beautified by the verdure of its Sicilian soil, and as we drew near and more near, we could not but be struck with wonder and admiration at the extent and grandeur of its lofty and massive fortifications, that have so long withstood the attacks of war and the ravages of time, and are yet seemingly as entire and perfect as when first created. They are built of a hard lime. stone, which has gradually assumed a creamy whiteness, giving a softness and delicacy extremely pleasing to the eye.

I

We had scarce taken possession of our apartments in Fort Manoel, ere we were visited by the guardians, who required of us to take everything out of our trunks, bags and boxes, and spread them on wooden frames, given us for the purpose. The next morning another came to see that it was done, and to place his hands on each article, to imbibe any infection they might contain; after this, we were left to amuse ourselves as we could best find ways and means. took my Bible, turned to the Acts of the Apostles, and read from the twenty-third to the twenty-eighth chapter, where is given the account of St. Paul's being made prisoner at Jerusalem, his appeal as a Roman to Cæsar, his speech before Agrippa, and his voyage from Cesarea, and his shipwreck on the island of Melita, every word of which seems so much more impressive after following as we have done his track along the sea.

I had just finished reading it aloud to Mr. C. when Major G. came in. I gave the book to him. He retired to his room with it, and when he returned said, "I think an infidel could not but believe, if he travelled over these places, and read as he went." It seems easy for a believer to believe, but, alas, the infidel will doubt. After this, I amused myself gazing out upon the prospect afforded from my window and

ST. ELMO'S CASTLE.

167

the open corridor adjoining our apartments. On our left was a small but safe and pretty harbor, where vessels from the north flee for shelter from the coming storm, guarded on one side by Fort Tighe, and on the other by our residence, Fort Manoel. These also guard the quarantine harbor on our right, which we look down upon from the bastions, and can almost grasp the yellow flags that are fluttering from the masts of the many vessels lying quietly in its basin. On a point in front of this is the Castle St. Elmo, which has taken so prominent a part in the various sieges of the island. Vessels of all kinds, and from all countries, are constantly passing and repassing, and it is delightful to watch the huge waves, way off in the open sea, and see them roll onward till they dash and break themselves where

The rock unworn its base doth bare,
And the fringe of the foam is seen
On the line left ages long ago,

WHILE in quarantine, I could only give you a little insight obtained from our windows of this interesting island. Between our egress from Fort Manoel, and our departure in the steamer, we had three entire days in which we were enabled to witness the most curious objects and places, in the vicinity and environs of Valetta, the modern capital of the island. The island itself, when taken possession of by the knights of St. John, was a bed of barren rocks just rising from the sea; (I had ever imagined it a high rocky cliff, not a Gibraltar exactly, but still somewhat of a natural fortress in itself;) but through the instrumentality of the indefatigable knights, it was covered- and enriched with the fruitful soil of Sicily, so that now the irregularities of its rocky surface are entirely covered with beautiful and verdant terraces, rising one above the other, throughout the, island; the only trees visible in any part, are the groves of olive, fig and orange, which of course are cultivated, not indigenous. The ancient capital, Notabili, the Medina of the Sarecens, now Cita Vecchia, (or old city,) is eight miles back of Valetta and of the sea. It was formerly the residence of the knights till the foundation of Valetta by the grand master, La Valette, the year after the famous siege of Solyman the Magnificent, 1565. It is now a city of deserted palaces, built with great taste and magnificence,