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ADVERTISEMENT.

There is a passage in De Lamartine's “Pilgrimage to the Holy Land,” which expresses very clearly the nature and object of this work. “I have always loved to wander over the physical scenes inhabited by men I have known, admired, loved, or revered, as well amongst the living as the dead. The country which a great man has inhabited and preferred, during his passage on the earth, has always appeared to me the surest and most speaking relic of himself: a kind of material manifestation of his genius-a mute revelation of a portion of his soula living and sensible commentary on his life, actions, and thoughts. When young, I passed many solitary and contemplative hours, reclined under olive trees which shade the gardens of Horace, in sight of the delightful cascades of the Tiber; and often have I dropped to sleep in the evening, lulled by the noise of the beautiful sea of Naples, under the hanging branches of the vines, near the spot where Virgil wished his ashes to repose, because it was the most delicious site his

eyes beheld. How often, at a later period, have I passed mornings and evenings seated at the foot of the beautiful chestnut trees in the little valley of Charmettes, to which the remembrance of Jean Jaques Rousseau attracted me, and where I was retained by sympathy with his impressions, his reveries, his misfortunes, and his genius. And I have been hus attracted with respect to several other authors and great men, whose names and writings were deeply engraven on my memory. I wished to study them; to become acquainted with them on the spot that had given them birth, or that had inspired them; and almost always.a.strutinizing glance might discover a secret and profound analogy between the country and the individual who had graced it; between the scer,e and the actor; between nature and the genius which derived its inspirations therefrom.”

had ever

These were exactly my feelings and ideas long before De Lamartine had thus penned them down; and who, indeed, has not experienced, more or less, the same impressions ? We need not visit the distant East to make the discovery; there is no country where the soil is more thickly sown with noble memories than our own, and those of the deeds, the sufferings and the triumphs of our own progenitors. It has long been my opinion that to visit the most remarkable scenes of old English history and manners, and to record the impressions thence derived in their immediate vividness; to restore, as it were, each place and its inhabitants to freshness, and to present them freed from the dust of ages and heaviness of antiquarian rubbish piled upon them, would be a labour responded to with emphasis by readers of the present day. The general approval of the experiment made in “The Rural Life,” by introducing visits to Newstead, Annesley, and Hardwicke, and the intimations of great interest in the announcement of this work, received from all quarters, convinced me that I was not mistaken. The field is a wide and a rich one. The present volume may be considered but as a precursor of others on this subject, in which I have long been engaged; and the plan of which will shortly be announced.

I have to present my warmest acknowledgments, not only to many private individuals for valuable hints and information, but also to the possessors of places visited, for the very cordial and liberal manner in which they endeavoured to promote my object.

The illustrations of this volume are all designed and executed by Samuel Williams, except the Title-page Vignette, which was designed by my daughter. The portrait of the Young Shakspeare, it should ako. be stated..is free an admirable sketch by Mr. Williams, but has been rendered hard, and unequal to the original, in the cutting

W. H. Esher, Dec. 18th, 1839.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

VISIT TO PersiuRST IN KENT; THE ANCIENT SEAT OF THE SIDNEYS—Charac-

ter of the Sidney Family—of Sir Philip-of his Father Sir Henry-of

Algernon, Shelley the Poet, a Sidney-present aspect of Penshurst,

Sir Philip's Oak-Saccharissa's Walk-Gamage's Bower— Ben Jonson's

Description of Penshurst—the Old Banqueting Hall-a Suite of Ancient

Rooms, with all their Antique Furniture and Paintings-- Portraits of

Sir Philip, Algernon, and the Countess of Pembroke, Saccharissa,

Countesses of Leicester and Carlisle—the Gallery full of Historical

Portraits—Sir Philip and his Brother Robert - Family MSS.-House-

hold Book-Locks of Hair of Sir Philip and Algernon-Church and

Parsonage

Visit TO THE FIELD OF CULLODEN-Peculiar Interest of Battle Fields-

Review of Events leading to the Battle of Culloden-Inverness, and

walk to Culloden

- present aspect of the Field — Tradition of the

valiant Blacksmith-the Graves of the Slain-Burns's Visit to them,

and his Feelings-- Traditions of the Field-strange Adventures of the

Chevalier Johnstone-his Account of the Atrocities of the Duke of

Cumberland— Visit to a Cottage on the field-Belief of the Cottagers

that another Battle will be fought, founded on Visions of Second-sight-

Wully Mackenzie entertains us with his Bagpipes

VISIT TO STRATFORD-ON-Avon, AND THE HAUNTS OF Shakspeare

Aspect of the Country-visible signs of Shakspeare's Fame in Stratford

--vindication of his Domestic Character, Ann Hathaway's Cottage-

its Garden and Plants— Dewberries-Danger of the Cottage being

pulled down -- PRESENT CONDITION OP E SHAKSPEARE FAMILY

William Shakspeare Smith, a Scb joy, descendant of Shakspeare's

Sister Joan — Relics of SHAKS. RE IN STRATFORD– Mr. Reason's

Collection-Mary Humby's attempt to obliterate all the Names of

Visiters to the Room of his Birth - THE SHAKSPEARE ALBUMS-a

sample of Inscriptions from them—Shakspeare's Tomb-CHARLECOTE

Park—odd local notion of Shakspeare, derived from a Statue of Diana

--present State and Appearance of the Park and House-Bust of Sir

Thomas Lucy—local estimation of the present Family of the Lucys-

Paintings-Monuments in the Church--Sir Thomas the Patron of Fox

the Martyrologist-Character of Lady Lucy-misrepresented by Shak-

speare-Clopron Hall—the Cloptons of Clopton, the great Family of

Stratford-Sir Hugh Clopton an admirer of Shakspeare-Lord Carew

of Elizabeth's reign, married the Heiress of the Cloptons-splendid

Tamb of himself and Countess state of Clopton Hall some years ago

T'raditions of the Tragic ends of Charlotte and Margaret Clopton-

decay of the Family and sale of the Estate—Margaret's Well- Ireland's

account of his visit there in quest of Shakspeare Papers

Visit To Combe Abbey, WARWICKSHIRE - Attempt to carry off from

Combe Abbey Elizabeth of Bohemia, by the Gunpowder Plot Con-

spirators—singular fate of some of these Conspirators-tragic History

of Sir Walter Smith—his Son juggled out of his Estate by Sir John

Lyttleton— Fate of Sir John Lyttleton's Descendants-singular Search

of Hendlip Hall-Elizabeth of Bohemia's subsequent Connexion with

Combe Abbey -the Portraits of the Stuart Family, and other Paintings

brought hither by her from Germany-Fatality of her Ambition 147

Visit to LINDISFARNE, FLODDEN FIELD, AND Otiler SCENERY OF MAR-

MION—Tact of the Poets in fixing the locality of their Poems in fine

Scenery illustrated in Marmion-wild appearance of Holy Isle, as seen

by us at twilight-beauty and strength of the Ruins of Lindisfarne -

affecting Character of Maritime Burying-grounds -approach to Flodden

Field—its present appearance-singular fate of King James's Remains 169

Visit to Bolton Priory—Men of Genius shewn to be the Practical Men

-united effect of Poetry and Steam-SCENERY OF The White DoE OF

RYLSTON Paradisiacal Beauty of Wharfdale — and Scenery round

Bolton Priory—the Ruins—the Duke of Devonshire's Hunting-seal-

the Strid-Barden Tower— Remarkable Persons who have lived there

--the celebrated Anne Clifford, Countess of Pembroke-her singular

Inscription—the Shepherd Lord—Walk over the Fells to Rylston-

Norton Tower-Remarks on Wordsworth's Poem of the White Doe . 197

Visit to Hampton Court— The Palace and Gardens now thrown open to

the Public-great resort there, and delight of the People, Sketch of the

Character, Progress, and Fall of Wolsey-Wolsey's Tower at Esher-

his Establishment and State at Hampton-Royal Festivities there-

remarkable Events occurring there from Henry VIII, to the present.

time--peep into Bushy Park-Gardens and Wilderness of Hampton

Court-- Description of the Palace both in its ancient and present state

-the suite of State Rooms, with all their Paintings, particularly the

Beauties of the Courts of Charles II. and William III.--the Cartoons

of Raffaelle—the Portrait Gallery—its numerous Historic Portraits-

singular Portrait of Queen Elizabeth.

233

Visit To COMPTON - WINYATES, WARWICKSHIRE Solitary and secluded

situation of this old house, the property of the Marquis of Northampton

- impressions on approaching it — its general appearance-curious

Carving on the Screen in the Hall--Royal Emblazonings on Windows,

Walls, and Ceilings — quaint and curious Carvings in the Chapel

account of the Compton Family-unique Letter of the first Countess

of Northampton-Popish Chapel in the roof-Hiding-places of the

Soldiers of the Civil Wars in the roof-profound Solitude of the place 303

A DAY-DREAM AT Tintagel_Wild situation of Tintagel Castle—Scene as

it may be imagined in King Arthur's days—Charms of old Romance,

and influence of Poetry on the National Character and Fortunes . 327

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Visit to STAFFA AND IONA—A Voyage to the Western Isles, a great event

a few years ago - now a matter of every day—wild Beauty of the

Scenery on the Voyage-Scene in the Cave of Staffa-general aspect

of Iona-Children on the Shore offering Shells and Green Pebbles-

Ruins, Tombs of the Norwegian Kings, Crosses, and other Remains-

curious Sculptures—Procession of Modern Pilgrims

349

Visit To EDGE-HILL Scenery of Edge-Hill — solitary Inn of the Sun-

rising-Round-Tower-Scene of the Battle-Battle Farm-the Grave
Fields account of the Battle-Bullet-hill — Anecdote of Cromwell-

Traditions, Anecdote of King Charles on his way to the Battle meet-

ing Richard Shuckburgh hunting—the circumstance fatal to Richard

Shuckburgh-tragic Love affair in the family of his descendants 365

VISIT TO TUE GREAT JEsuits' COLLEGE AT STONYHURST, in LANCASHIRE,

Fine situation and picturesque Neighbourhood of Stonyhurst College

-Whalley Abbey - Mitton Church—the Old Sexton, his attention to

the last Rector's Tomb — the splendid Monuments of the Sherburnes

-curious Monumental Records of the Sherburnes- Anecdote of the

Village Sculptor-description of the College, its Paintings, Relics, and

mode of Education – Gardens — Conversation of the peculiar position

of the Jesuits there

380

Visit to THE ANCIENT City of WINCHESTER — Historical Reminiscences-

the Capital of the British and Saxon Kings-favourite City and Burial-

place of Alfred — resort of many subsequent Monarchs - Remarkable

Events there- GENERAL ASPECT OF TIJE City - Fair of St. Giles' Hill

-Tue CATHEDRAL — its Venerable Beauty – the Beauty of Gothic

Architecture-Monuments of Joseph Warton and Bishop Hoadley-

splendid Chantries of Wykeham, Beaufort, Fox and Waynflete-Tomb

of William Rufus-- Noble Choir--- Chests containing the Bones of the

Saxon Monarchs—Sonnet by Richard Howiti, on the Matin Service-

Grave of Izaak Walton-WYKEHAM'S COLLEGE — William of Wyke-

ham's Origin and Career- Account of the School – The Hospital OF

St. Cross—History and present State of it-its noble Norman Church

-Concluding Remarks

411

Visit to Worton Hall, STAFFORDSHIRE-ALFIERI AND ROUSSEAU IN ENG-

LAND- Alfieri's Early Character and Conduct in England - the Arrival

of Rousseau at Wotton – bis Temporary Contentment there-- his Ac.

quaintance-his Flight-present Traditions of him at Wotton · 487

SACRAMENT SUNDAY AT KILMORAC Peculiar mode of administering the

Sacrament in Scotland— administered in the Highlands every Summer

in the Open Air.- Description of such a Scene as witnessed by the

Author at the Falls of Kilmorac

515

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