shoulders. Altogether, the aristocratic element predominates in and about Los Angeles; it has always been so, I believe, even in the days when Fremont here lived his short life of gubernatorial glory (1847).

The better class of Spanish one meets here in society are most charming people; culti vated, gentle of demeanor; the women fair as the day, the men hardly less handsome.

If we continue our walk now along Main street, and leave the business portion of it behind us, we will soon reach the new Catholic cathedral, a really fine. structure, and looking

vast and grand in contrast with the little old Spanish church by the Plaza. The handsome new Methodist church stands on the street just above this, and the other denominations have also tasteful places of worship. A piece farther down from the cathedral we come upon the elegant villaresidence of ex-Governor Downy; and from here out we see houses and grounds that would add to the beauty of any city of the older States, and which fill one with wonder at the strides this place has made in the last decade.

The day is so fine

RESIDENCE OF ISAIAS W. HELLMAN, ESQ..

that we cannot possibly return to the hotel yet, so we will hail the street-car, which takes us

directly out to the race-course. Not that we want to see the races (there are none to-day),

but all along the road we can see the prettiest cottages, half hidden in clumps of trees, and

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almost buried in flowers and vines. The trees are not very tall generally, except where a swaying eucalyptus or slender poplar rises high above groves of orange-trees, and limes and lemons Oleanders growing almost as high as oranges. and pomegranates, figs and peaches, apples and

pears grow and thrive alike; and though there are no such large orchards right here as we shall find out at the Mission directly, we see enough to convince us that almost anything counted useful or beautiful in the civilized world can be grown in this spot. Another charming feature are the hedges and green fences. Willow saplings have been set out into the ground and interlaced, and will soon Of course it reform miles of shady avenues. quired water, and an abundant supply of it, to

they are well kept lend an additional charm to the place, though in former years there was much irregularity in their management, and much disturbance over unequal division of the precious fluid. The first time I visited Los Angeles I remember being startled at the breakfast table by the youngest daughter of the house rushing in and electrifying her father with the intelligence that "all their water had been stolen in the night, and not a drop left on the whole place!" I sat in