280 Approach to Rome. On the borders of the Lake of Bolsena, anciently Lacus Vulsinus, are a most striking series of prismatic, basalt, columns, all standing obliquely, and, as it were, shaken, and thus displaced, by some convulsion of nature. Montefiascone, and Viterbo, at the foot of Monte Cimino, anciently Mons Ciminus, lead to Ronciligione, and thence to Monterosi, where we slept on Sunday night. Proceeding through Baccano, along the Via Flaminia, and through the Porta del Popolo, originally erected by Aurelian, on Monday the 12th, we entered the Eternal City! With respect to this journey from Florence to Rome, I had heard so very much of the insuperable disgusts, and disagreeables, attending it, that I am bound to say I think them exaggerated, and that the inns are not altogether so very, very filthy. The ladies may well be allowed to complain, but, I think, that the men may manage to bear these temporary incommodities. We certainly had but meagre fare, though it was rather amusing in some instances to try, and contrive, how to procure our little comforts. Tea we took with us; but this being a luxury unknown in these parts, the deuce of a tea pot could be had. In this case, could get any when sitting over a wood fire, we sort of vessel, stewing pan, or fish pot, with, or without, a cover, we boiled the tea in it, and drank it out of tumblers, for want of cups, leaves and all, using a bit of bread instead of a spoon. The Journey to Rome. 281 Sometimes the utmost we could achieve was to put the tea, each man in his own glass, and to pour the boiling water upon it. On one occasion, we thought ourselves famously well off in getting hold of a soup tureen, cover and ladle, in lieu of tea pot, tea cups, basin, and other appendages. Such trifles excite laughter, and fun, rather than long, or wry faces, and serve as a specimen of some part of this country. At La Novella, where the poor peasantry, or wretched inn, possess neither butter, sugar, milk, meat, or cow, &c. being five in company we were obliged to sleep three in a miserable rafter room; two bed-rooms, one of which was the dining-room, being all they had: and it was at this place that, finding but one basin, and one towel, furnished for three people, I asked for two more towels. The good woman seemed quite amazed, exclaiming in bad Italian, "What! Three towels! How could you expect such a magazine!" Our carriage was very comfortable, and our Vetturino did more than fulfil his promise, since, occasionally, without increasing his charge, he found, instead of four mules, five, or six, to draw it. These animals, however, being as slow as they are sure, and never deviating from their own pace, were the cause of our being regularly called at three o'clock in the morning, and once at two o'clock, starting in one hour after, one only day excepted, 282 The Journey to Rome. when our Vetturino allowed us to sleep till seven o'clock, and thus we dragged on till about eight in the evening. However, even this inconvenience has its concomitant advantages, since it allows one to read, or sleep in the carriage, to observe, to walk, or to ride, at will. The expense, every matter included, was not 200 paoli a-head. (About four pounds.) Rome. 283 CHAPTER XVII. ROME, REFLECTIONS ON-ST. PETER'S-PIAZZA-COLONNADES -EGYPTIAN OBELISK-FOUNTAINS-VESTIBULE-PORTA TOMB OF ST. PETER SANTA-INTERIOR-DIMENSIONS HIGH ALTAR-CUPOLA-MONUMENTS-ST. PETER'S STATUE -HISTORY OF ITS ERECTION-OBSERVATIONS-THEATRE OF MARCELLUS—JULIA, DAUGHTER OF AUGUSTUS-CHURCH OF ST. PAUL (WITHOUT THE WALLS)-DITTO OF ST. SEBASTIAN —MIRACLE-CATACOMBS-TOMB OF CECILIA METELLA, AND POETICAL FICTION-TOMB OF THE SCIPIOS-FOUNTAIN OF EGERIA-NUMA POMPILIUS-CIRCUS OF CARACALLA-CHARIOTEERING, &c.—CANOVA, AND HIS SCULPTURES-PERSEUS -CREUGAS, AND DAMOXENUS—THORWALDSON, AND COM◄ PARISON WITH CANOVA-PROCESS OF SCULPTURE. ROME! How varied, and overwhelming, the reflections that arise in this, the Eternal, City! The grand, the imposing, the stupendous, relics of the once greatest nation upon earth, which existeth no more!-the receptacle, the hallowed temple still of the noblest efforts, and attainments, that modern art has perfected! the Throne where the Holy Church displays her supremacy in the Papal power; whose Sovereign Pontiff, with his triple, mysterious, crown, has deemed even kings but as his vassals; and who still claims, as successor of St. Peter, the primacy of honour and authority, and dominion, throughout the entire Christian world! In ranging through Roman monuments it were difficult for me to say which feeling most predominates,-admiration of her works of immortal art; admiration of the nation which raised them; or sorrow for her downfal, mixed with horror of the Barbarian invaders who wilfully and sacrilegiously destroyed her and her trophies! Twenty-five hundred years, and more, have revolved;-nations, and monarchs, have risen and sunk ;-time has annihilated intermediate records, and events;-Rome has been pillaged, burnt, sacked, destroyed, and mouldered by the more destructive waste of passing centuries. "Some felt the silent stroke of mouldering age, And Papal piety, and Gothic fire.”—(Pope.) Yet still she remains in solemn, venerable, eternal, grandeur! However, let us waive further mournful reflection. Hitherto, in entering a city of note, I have given a summary of its history. Of Rome, this were superfluous, and as, in speaking of its antiquities, I shall aim at recording some slight historical accounts connected with them, these may suffice instead of a regular, chronological, detail. ST. PETER'S.-The noblest, the grandest, the most sumptuous, temple ever raised by man for the adoration of the Supreme God; and which, |