the level of the sea, and is supposed to be the highest human habitation in Europe.

Much impressed with gratitude for the kindness we had individually received, as well as for the general benevolence of the institution, I inscribed our names at parting, in the Album appropriated for that purpose, accompanied with a slight testimonial of our recollections.

As these good monks demand no recompence for their benevolence, I did not omit, as is customary, to drop an adequate compliment in their Tronc des Aumones. In the Chapel is a fiue monument erected by Napoleon to his friend General Desaix, who perished at the Battle of Marengo.

25 Inst. Before our departure for Milan this morning, we settled accounts. My share, as one of four, for Guides and Mules, from Chamouni to the Mer de Glace, the Jardin, St. Bernard, &c. was 150 francs. The conveyance of my portmanteau (weighing forty-two pounds) from Geneva to Martigny, taking only our Sacs de nuit on the backs of our mules, was twelve francs; and my portion of the hire of the carriage to Milan, an open landau, will be about 120 francs, independently of living on the road.

As is customary throughout Italy we drew up a written agreement, distinguishing the number of our trunks, &c. to be carried; the number of days to be on the road-five-and the additional rate

108

Summary of Expences.

we would pay for every extra day, besides the five, we might detain the carriage: the driver, on his part, covenanting to pay the Barriere of the Simplon, twelve francs, and all other Barrieres, bridges, &c. &c. and to provide two, three, or four, horses as necessary.

One reason of the great cost of travelling in Switzerland is the practice of paying the expenses of every vehicle back to the place from which it was hired. Thus we pay for our carriage back again to Geneva.

In leaving Switzerland, I cannot testify to the supposed cheapness of that part of the country which I have seen; having found all charges equally high as at Paris, and accommodation certainly inferior. I ought perhaps to except Chamouni, where we had an excellent dinner, including a bottle of very good Vin Ordinaire, for three francs, with other matters in proportion, at the Hotel de Londres.

It was in the neighbourhood of Martigny and in the Haut, and Bas, Valais, that we found those pitiable objects termed Cretins. They are, for the most part, ideotic; sometimes deaf and dumb; and distinguished by the strange personal defect of a Goitre, or swelling in the throat. Though I have understood that this excrescence will sometimes reach to the chest, I saw nothing so extreme. But I observed that almost all the people hereabout

have a swollen throat, more, or less. Among other assigned causes is the excessive coldness of the water they drink, with the dampness of the situation.

110

The Simplon.

CHAPTER VII.

SIMPLON AND ITS GRANDEURS-LAGO MAGGIORE-ISOLA MADRE-ISOLA BELLA, AND PALACES-BONAPARTE'S LAUREL TREE-ST. CARLO BORROMEO, AND HIS COLOSSAL STATUE— MILAN OBSERVATIONS TRIUMPHAL ARCH FESTIVAL DELL' ANGELO CUSTODE-LA SCALA, OPERA, AND SIGNORA

PALLERINI.

PASSAGE of the Simplon.-Hitherto I have been traversing Alpine Heights, accessible as one would suppose only to goats-roads of rocks alonestaircases of stones-heaps of granites rudely tumbled up and down-torrents passed by slender planks, or limbs of trees-and paths where carriage wheels ne'er rolled. In all these difficulties, presupposing a little courage and presence of mind, so that one need not say

Least my brain turn, and the deficient sight
Topple down headlong;"

the better rule, in my judgment, is to leave your mule at perfect liberty, with which is combined the advantage of seeing, in full freedom, all the surrounding landscape; impracticable in walking, our entire attention being engrossed by the care of placing our feet most cautiously.

But I have now to give a brief description of a

pass, which was formerly such as the others are, yet now is as easy as they are rough.

In the year 1801 Napoleon projected, and in 1805 finished, a complete military road into Italy over the hitherto inaccessible precipices of the Simplon. Soon after leaving Brigg, the road commences insensibly ascending you mount to the highest points of the pass; to the inn at an elevation of 3216 feet above the level of the Mediterranean; and to the village at 4548. Throughout this stu pendous ascent, and thence downwards to Duomo d'Ossola, a length of thirty-five miles, one uniform breadth is maintained of twenty-five Paris feet.

Its direction is one continued winding way, the road always smooth, and its ascent, equally with its descent, so gradual, that at no point is it necessary to lock the carriage wheels.

This Chaussée has been considered as one of Bonaparte's most splendid achievements, and as one of the most astonishing triumphs of human ingenuity, and powers, over the barriers of nature. It is indeed stupendous thus to walk with perfect ease amid the highest precipices, and most inaccessible heights; to look upwards, and to see your path in the clouds; to look downwards, and to behold your winding way in the gulphs below!

There are more than thirty bridges thrown across the torrents, and the chasms of the rock; but, where the mighty mass of impenetrable granite