this time nearly sixty years of age, and had early been very formidable as a robber in the district of Syrt. The circumstance of his being the head of a Marabut tribe, joined to the natural intrepidity of his character, had given him great influence over the Arabs of his neighbourhood; and the daring character of his exploits soon obtained for him the appellation of El Dubbah, or the Hyæna." 515 sons converted into stone, and all of the same bluish colour." But the ruins of Ghirza were tants, that, making every allowance for Aradescribed with such clearness by actual visibian imagination, Captain S. judged it at least worth ascertaining, how much of all this might have its foundation in fact. He was miserably disappointed. Buildings there tively modern, and their style of design and ciently in ruins; but their date was, comparawere, and suffidecoration, in most miserable taste. nothing was gained from the expedition, but tempts at sculpture were equally wretched, and the exposure of an absurd exaggeration, and ledge. some slight addition to geographical know The at head-ache, and violent pain in the stomach, and a celebrated Marabut undertook her cure. Lebida, the ancient Leptis, was the first important object that presented itself on the route. Although the present party were unable to devote much time to its examination, a series of interesting details are supplied from the communications of Captain Smyth, who examined the ruins both superficially and by excavation. He soon found, however, that the work of demolition had been urged on by motives of unu- panions were hospitably received by the Shekh At Mesurata, Captain Beechey and his comsually powerful influence, and effected by skil- Belcazi; a large and handsome personage, who ful and persevering operatives. Whether it exhibited in his own decorations and in those was the undiscriminating zeal of the Carthagi- of his horse, a somewhat imposing display of nian bishops, intent on obliterating every vestige of idolatry, or whether it is to be ascribed eastern magnificence. It soon became known to barbarian violence, it is now, perhaps, imposto the inhabitants, that a tibeeb, or doctor, was sible to determine; but the evidences of a vinone of their European visiters, and Mr. Campdictive determination to make the business of hands. In one instance, an opportunity was bell had, very soon, plenty of business upon his destruction signally complete, were not to be mistaken. Statues mutilated and shattered; dulity on one side, and consummate impudence obtained, of witnessing a singular scene of creornamental foliages and arabesques defaced; the carvings of the Corinthian and Ionic capi-heartily of some coarse food, was attacked with on the other. A young female, after eating tals battered into indistinct irregularities; and the very pavements partially torn up. It did not appear, indeed, that there was any reason for extraordinary regret at all this wanton devastation, since, although the remains indicated a lavish expenditure, they exhibited unequivocal signs of deteriorated taste. Costly materials, granites and marbles, walls of solid masonry, columns of immense size, with shafts hewn out of a single block, magnificent gates and splendid porticoes, evidenced the wealth and liberality of the inhabitants; but the ornaments were redundant and without character, and the statues, although of colossal proportions, were in the very worst style of the Lower Empire." Captain Smyth shipped off a cargo of these architectural fragments, and the various shafts and cornices which are exposed to view in the court of the British Museum, are the results of his exertions. In the vicinity of this city dwells a Marabût of uncommon sanctity, manifested by a fierce antipathy to heretics, and by a disposition, as far as menaces go, to eat them alive. While Captain Smyth was exploring the ruins of Leptis, he was assured by the natives, that he would find, in the interior, at a place called Ghirza, an extensive collection of ruins, exhibiting spacious structures, and with such a "profusion of statues as to have all the appearance of an inhabited" city. He was well aware that this tempting story had been told of other sites; that Shaw and Bruce had heard of petrified towns, with their inhabitants still remaining, as when suddenly arrested by supernatural power, in the various attitudes of life and action. "A man was to be seen, on entering the castle, lying on a magnificent bed of stone, and guards were still visible, standing at the doors armed with their pikes and spears. Animals of different sorts (nay, the very dogs, cats, and mice,) were observed by some per "The Shereef (for he claimed, or possessed, the distinction) was no sooner made acquainted with the case, than he assumed a most mysfering patient, that she was possessed by an terious air; and began by declaring to his sufunderground spirit. He then proceeded to state, as the cause of this misfortune, that before doing something (which our party could not distinctly make out) she had omitted to say Bismillah! (in the name of God) a form always used by good and pious Mahometans to draw down a blessing upon whatever they are about the cause of her dropping some water upon the to do. This omission (he declared) had been head of the spirit's child, who was passing bejustly-enraged gnome had, in consequence, neath her (under ground) at the tinie; and the leaped into her, and was now in the act of tormenting her for the crime. Our party of listeners could hardly contain themselves at this most ingenious discovery of the Shereef; but fully, and the poor girl herself began to cry bitall the Arabs within the tent believed it most terly, and to bewail her hard fate and most unlucky omission. The Marabût, however, now bade her take comfort, and assured her that the case, though undoubtedly a serious one, was ingly called up a severe and commanding not altogether without a remedy. He accordlook, and, in a tone of authority, ordered the spirit to leave her. As the pain still continued without intermission, it was evident that this holy man then pronounced him a most obstipersonage was not inclined to obey; and the having entered the woman long before she had nate spirit, and told him that he knew of his sent for his assistance: he added, however, that not quit his patient till morning. At the same he was determined to conquer him, and would time, he acknowledged that the task would be difficult, for he could clearly perceive that the able to bring off their horses. After much woman was wicked: he knew it (he said) by winding and turning, this was, however, at the breadth of her shoulders, and the uncom-length effected, and both horses and riders mon blackness of her large rolling eyes, which were even larger and blacker than those of one of his own wives, whom he knew to be a very sinful woman. In the morning, it happened that the poor girl was better, and the fame of the Marabut was widely diffused; but whether her recovery was owing to the holy man's exertions, or to a copious draught of medicine administered by Mr. Campbell, we will leave to the decision of our readers." were heartily glad to find themselves once more on firm ground. Nothing was said to our guides of this accident, but it served to convines us that their apprehensions of the marsh were not groundless, and we afterwards took the precaution of dismounting when we had occasion to cross any part which was considered to be dangerous. We found on examination, that many hollow spaces of considerable depth and extent existed in various parts of the marsh. While the party remained at Mesurata, a and that the crust of salt and mud which costrong scirocco wind brought into the neigh-vered them was sometimes not more than two bourhood such crowds of locusts as literally to darken the air. The inhabitants were not idle; they endeavoured by all sorts of noises and by firing muskets, to keep them from the cultivated grounds; while many were ployed in collecting, as an article of food, those which were within their reach. Baskets were in universal requisition, and many ass-loads were observed to enter the town and the surrounding villages. em inches, and an inch and a half, in thickness." Independently of their apparent depth and consequent danger, the water which covered the bottom of these chasms was usually several feet deep; and the deposit of mud below this, made the whole a formidable quagmire, from which escape became nearly impossible. Even in those parts where the saline crust had not been formed, these natural trous de loup, were almost as effectually concealed by the rank To the groves and gardens of Mesurata, suc- herbage, reeds, and brushwood; and the Euroceeded a long tract of marshy ground, stretch- peans seem to have been preserved from ca ing along the sea frontier of the Greater Syr-sualty, more by the sagacity of their horses, tis, and presenting the usual characteristics of swampy regions, malaria, and a treacherous surface. "As two of our party were making their way across the marsh, to something which bore the appearance of a ruin, the ground suddenly gave way beneath the feet of the foremost horse, and discovered a hollow of ten or twelve feet in depth, at the bottom of which appeared water. The animal, who was galloping at the time, feeling the insecurity of his footing, sprang violently forward with all the energy of terror, and by this sudden exertion saved himself and his rider from destruction; for it would not have been possible to extricate either from such a place, had there even been more persons at hand to attempt it. The ground continued to crack and break away for some distance further, as the horse galloped on from the hole, and a large aperture was soon formed in the crusted surface of the marsh, as the pieces fell in one after another. The whole extent of the danger was not at first perceived by the rider who had so narrowly escaped; but the person who was following, saw the chasm which had been made, and wheeling his horse round in another direction, was just in time to avoid plunging into it. As this accident occurred near the middle of the marsh, it was difficult to decide upon the best path to be pursued, the surface being every where in appearance the same; but, in order that the weight might be more equally divided, both riders dismounted, and continued to lead their horses till they reached a firmer place. This was however no easy matter; as the poor animals were so terrified with their repeated stumbles, that they could with difficulty be pulled along, and they trembled so violently as to be almost incapable of keeping their legs; for the surface frequently cracked, and partially gave way in places which appeared to be secure, and the parties were so often obliged to alter their direction, that they almost despaired of being than by their own vigilance. These, however, were not the only annoy ances to which our countrymen were subjected. Their Arab escort was composed of men disposed to take every advantage, and the worthy Dubbah acted just as a reformed highwayman might have been expected to do. Under the mask of neutrality, or rather with the affectation of friendly regard to the foreigners whom he had been appointed to protect, he employed every possible method, short of actual though not of threatened violence, to extract money from those who were dependent on him for assistance. Intrigues of all kinds were tried; unslinging of muskets and hammering of flints, were paraded before the eyes of the wealthy Giaours. The Europeans, however, were not to be intimidated, and by a cool but determined conduct, compelled the old knave and his followers to do their duty. He was, as we have already stated, properly reported to the Bashaw of Tripoli, who punished his misconduct by a severe fine. Nor was this all; for his machinations, in one amusing instance, recoiled upon himself in their effects, and gave to his English friends, that richest of all sports, to the sportively inclined, the enjoyment of seeing "the engineer hoise with his own petar." For some purpose of his own, not very obvious, but, in its execution, very inconvenient to the party under his guidance, the ex-robber interfered, in an underhand way, with the supplies; influencing the natives to withhold the articles which, without such interference, they would have been glad to sell. "On our way we passed several flocks of sheep, but could not persuade the shepherd to part with a single one. As we were now heartily tired of being so often refused what there seemed to be no sufficient reason for withholding, we told the man that we should act as the Bashaw's people would on similar occasions, if he did not think more considerately on the subject; which was as much as to say, that af Beechey's Expedition to the Coast of Africa. 517 man declared, that he recognised the footsteps The Arabs of Zaffran were friendly and hos- "We were often much amused on these occasions, with the surprise which our appearance created, and at the contest between illrepressed curiosity and the respect which our Arab friends were desirous of showing to their guests. he would not part with his sheep voluntarily, we should certainly make bold to take it without his leave; the only difference being, that his Highness's people would have taken the animal without paying for it, while we were quite ready to pay the full price of it. But the Arab, who had evidently been tampered with by the Dubbah, was steady in his decided refusal and we were too hungry to wait very long in endeavouring to reason him out of his obstinacy. Besides, we had already proposed an alternative, and could not with credit avoid putting our threat in execution. As neither our dignity, therefore, nor our appetites, would allow us to discuss with our obstinate Arab friend the propriety or impropriety of eating his mutton against his will, we judged it better to dispense with all such logical minutim on a subject where the parties were not likely to agree, and, dropping the argument, we took up the sheep, and tendered the money we had of fered for it. Our opponent, however, was still as obstinate as before in refusing to take our piastres, though he saw a fat sheep take its departure from his flock, and occupy a position upon our Chaous's shoulders, while nothing remained to him in lieu of it. We had no doubt, on our leaving him, that he would change his mind before long, and told him, in consequence, where we meant to pitch our tents, that he might come for his money at his own leisure and convenience. But the sheep was killed and eat, at least a good part of it, and still no shepherd appeared; and we went to sleep in full assurance that he would come the next morning before the camels were loaded. ing the night, our Arab watch-dog kept up a continual barking, very much to the annoyance of old Shekh Mahommed, who was always rejoiced to have any opportunity of finding fault with poor Morzouk, whom he frequently honoured with the titles of useless cur, noisy rascal, and other equally flattering appellations. Our whole party, however, were too much tired with the day's exertions to pay any particular attention to this warning; and indeed it must be said that our shaggy young guardian was too much in the habit of employing his nights in barking merely for his private amusement, to render any further notice of him absolutely necessary, than that of lifting up occasionally the canvas of the tent to throw a stick or a stone at him, accompanied in general with some little verbal admonition. however, was kept awake on this occasion, so far as we have been able to learn, but old Shekh Mahommed el Dubbah; and we have reason to believe, that his opinion of Morzouk's sagacity was not quite so indifferent after this night's alarm, as it had been before its occurrence; for the first thing which he discovered on turning out in the morning, which he usually did very early, was that three of his camels were missing; and on summoning his people, and searching every where in the neighbourhood, no traces whatever could be seen of them, but the track of their footsteps in the sand, with those of a man in their company." Dur No one, "This struggle generally lasted till we had finished our repast, and our hosts would then begin to draw a little nearer to the mats which they had spread upon the ground for our seats; the women to examine our dress more minutely, "The white linen of which our turbans and and the men to handle our sabres and fire-arms. under garments were composed, excited the greatest admiration in the former, while our double-barrelled guns, and pocket-pistols with stop-locks, were the objects of attraction to the latter. In a very short time, the reserve of both sexes would begin to wear away very rapidly, and the whole family of our host would crowd round us indiscriminately, each trying to be heard above the other: one question af ter another poured in upon us from all sides, and either nobody waited for an answer, or the answer was given by half a dozen of the family at once, each expressing a different opinion from that of his neighbour. At length. no satisfactory conclusion could be formed upon the subject of their inquiry, they would wait to have the question formally answered by ourselves; and the real use of every object which excited their curiosity, was generally different from all those which they had assigned to it, that the whole party, then waiting in silent expectation for the result, would burst out all at once into the loudest exclamations of surprise, and sometimes into fits of laughter, which laid them rolling on the ground, and left them scarcely strength to rise when we got up to take our leave. The very Arabs seemed to consider the thing as an excellent joke, and, with the exception of El Dubbah and his sons, the whole party were in an uproar of laughter, when the old SO Among the numerous objects of attraction, our compass, telescopes, and watches excited universal admiration; and the reason why the hands of the latter should move round of themselves, and why the needle of the compass should always turn to the northward, must have been canvassed among them for many months afterwards. Why a man or a camel should be seen distinctly through a tube, when they could scarcely be seen at all, at the same distance, without it, will afford equal matter for speculation; and the next European who may visit the tents of our friends, will probably hear an account of these wonders so much disfigured by misrepresentation, and so much exaggerated by the enthusiasm of Arab fancy, as will lead him to doubt whether they ever saw what they are describing, or to believe that they are telling him some whimsical story which has no better foundation than those of the Hundred and One Nights, or the description of a Mahommedan paradise." The whole of the tract along which the expedition travelled, in addition to the more extensive ruins which were observed from time to time, exhibited a remarkable military feature, in the frequent occurrence of quadrangular buildings, constructed with much care, and evidently designed as posts on the line of communication, and occupying the strong points of the country which they held in submission, and maintained in security from predatory in road. There can be but slight question as to the origin of these redoubts. When the Roman empire was at its greatest extent, the demand for soldiers pressed upon its resources, and the harassing service of the frontier demanded that every practicable provision should be made for the security and comfort of the troops to whom it was confided. Hence, the chain of fortifications established in this direction, both as quarters for their garrisons, and as holding in check the tribes that continually menaced the African provinces. The general character of the country admits of more favourable report than might have been supposed from previous accounts, and from the general desertion which marks its aspect. Sand is no doubt prevalent to a great extent, but there are many fertile tracts, even in the Syrtis itself, and the Cyrenaica is highly productive. Bengazi, standing on the site of the ancient Berenice, was fixed upon as the resting place of the expedition, during the rainy season; and after a journey of somewhat more than two months, Captain Beechey and his party reached it on the 12th of January, 1822. They were fortunate in securing a house that had one room that was weather-proof; since this accommodation appears to be rare in Bengazi. It seems to be a thing of common occurrence for a dwelling to tumble upon its inhabitants, the flat mud-roofs offering no adequate resistance to the torrents that pour down from the sky, and many serious accidents are continually occurring from this cause. So wretchedly careless and improvident is the system of construction, as to justify Captain B. in expressing his belief, that the weather-tight apartment to which we have just referred, was the only one in the town that could lay claim to the distinction. Halil, the Bey of the town and district, was a Georgian, a tall, handsome man, of frank and cordial manners; nor did his good breeding fail him when an order from the Bashaw was handed to him, entitling our countrymen to a payment, on demand, of five hundred dollars; a heavy pressure on finances already much reduced by the exactions of his master. Notwithstanding, however, the courtesy of the Bey, the good offices of the English consul, and the friendly attentions of a few individuals among the inhabitants, with whom the Travellers had cultivated habits of intimacy, the time hung heavily on the hands of active men, who had an object in view, and felt every moment wasted, that was not employed in making advances towards its accomplishment. The most enlivening occurrence of all that in any way contributed to break the mo notony of their existence, was on occasion of a false alarm that the Greeks were about to make a descent. The whole Arab population was up in arms, and, in a state of the highest irritation. denouncing vengeance on the Nasaras (Nazarenes). Happily, the fears of the natives were dissipated, and as their threats had been the result, not of malignant disposition, but of excited feeling, no ill consequences followed. The Tibeeb appears to have been in considerable requisition; and while his medical cures obtained for him a great reputation, his surgical operations seem to have been regarded as little less than miraculous Tapping was performed on an hydropic patient, and the numerous bystanders shouted with surprise, calling "Allah to witness that the Tibeeb was a most extraordinary man." A whimsical scene occurred on one occasion, at a "select party" of the natives, in consequence of the exhibition of a miniature, representing a beautiful English female. The exposure of the "naked face," called up at first a deep blush into the countenance of bearded men, who had each of them two or three wives in his harem; but they soon became reconciled to the indecorum, and one of them even borrowed the por trait for the inspection of the ladies of his own family. Few traces remain of the ancient city, although much might, no doubt, be discovered by excavation. Even now, coins and gems are frequently found by the natives; and a collection made by purchase from them, was recent ly disposed of for six thousand dollars. The travellers were much interested by some remantic gardens in the vicinity, formed at the bottom of certain rocky chasms, and exhibiting scenes of luxuriant beauty, surrounded with natural and apparently insurmountable barriers. Their imaginations forthwith catch fire, and, not content with citing the "knights and princes" of fairy lore, they proceed to an elaborate deduction, tending to prove that these illustrations of Arab industry can be no other than the far-famed gardens of the Her perides. There is considerable ingenuity in their collation of facts and authorities; and their supposed discovery of the river Lethe, ia a "subterranean stream" in the neighbourhood of Bengazi, may stand, if for nothing more, for at least a curious coincidence. The various speculations as to the probable alterations in the features of the locality, are fairly inferred and cleverly managed; nor are we disposed to quarrel with the introduction of the following interesting apologue from De Sacy's Chrestomathie Arabe. "I passed by a very large and populous city, and inquired of one of its inhabitants, by whom it was founded. Oh, replied the man, this is a very ancient city! we have no idea how long it may have been in existence; and our ances tors were on this point as ignorant as ourselves. In visiting the same place five hundred years afterwards, I could not perceive a single trace of the city, and asked of a countryman, whom I saw cutting clover, where it stood, and how long it had been destroyed. What nonsens are you asking me? said the person whom I addressed: these lands have never been any Beechey's Expedition to the Coast of Africa. otherwise than you see them. Why, returned I, was there not formerly here a magnificent We have never seen one, and populous city? replied the man, and our fathers have never mentioned to us any thing of the kind. Five hundred years afterwards, as I passed by the spot, I found that the sea had covered it; and, perceiving on the beach a party of fishermen, I asked them how long it had been overflowed. It is strange, answered they, that a person of your appearance should ask us such a question as this; for the place has been at all times exWhat, said I, was there not actly as it is now at one time dry land in the spot where the sea is at present? Certainly not, that we know of, answered the fishermen, and we never heard our fathers speak of any such circumstance. Again I passed by the place, after a similar lapse of time; the sea had disappeared, and I inquired of a man whom I met, at what period this change had taken place. He made me the same answer as the others had done before; and at length, on returning once more to the place after the lapse of another five hundred years, I found that it was occupied by a flourishing city, more populous and more rich in magnificent buildings, than that which When I inquired of its inhabiformerly seen. tants concerning its origin, I was told that it lost itself in the darkness of antiquity! We have not the least idea, they said, when it was founded, and our forefathers knew no more of its origin than ourselves!" had On the 17th of April, the expedition left Bengazi, and, after two or three days' journey, reached a more imposing scene than any which had hitherto arrested attention. There stood the walls of an ancient city, strongly built, fortified by twenty-six quadrangular towers, and entered on the eastern and western faces, through substantial gateways. The original name of this fortress was Teuchira, altered under the Ptolemies to Arsinöe, and by Mark Antony to Cleopatris, but now distinguished by its primary appellation, with but slight change, Tauchira, or Tocra. The interior is in a state of such complete demolition, as to manifest the work of intentional destruction; but the walls seem to have bid defiance, by the massiveness of their structure, to the hand of violence, and remain to this day "one of the best examples extant" of antique munition. Numerous inscriptions exist in all directions, but none were found of any particular interest or importance. Eighteen miles from Teuchira stand the ruins of Ptolemeta, the approach to which is rendered striking by a "large and very lofty quadrangular tomb, raised on a foundation scarped from the solid rock. The conspicuous size and laborious execution of this structure, make it probable, that it was erected by some of the Ptolemies as a regal mausoleum. A noble gateway is all that remains, except on very minute examination, to indicate the situation of the walls. An amphitheatre, two theatres, the reservoirs and tesselated pavements of a royal dwelling with columns, both fallen and erect, are among the more remarkable remains of the city itself. The ravines which deteramine the limits of Ptolemeta on the east and west, are described as surpassingly beautiful. 519 The eastern vale, in particular, rises gradually Much of the impression given by these en- The approach to Cyrene was marked by the chral caverns. |