CHAPTER VII.

The Author meets two Americans in Cairo-Contemplated Journey through Arabia Petra-Discouragements-Preparations to proceedCommencement of the Journey-General Appearance of the DesertCamels and Dromedaries-A Caravan murdered-Arrival at SuezDescription of Suez-Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites-The Fountains of Moses-Journey onward in the Desert-Well of Howara, or the Marah of Scripture.

ON my arrival at Cairo, I providentially met two American gentleman who had recently returned from the cataracts of the Nile, and had been making some arrangements to go to Palestine by the way of Suez, Mount Sinai, Akabah, and the ruins of Petra. A written contract had been made a few days before, through the American consul at Cairo, with the Bedoin sheik, Tueileb, so well known among travellers, to convey them and any others that might accompany them, as far as Akabah. Another written agreement had been made through the same medium, with sheik Hassein, the head of the Alloeen tribe, to convey them and others who might accompany them, from Akabah to Hebron, by way of the ruins of Petra. Late news, however, of the disordered state of Syria by civil war, and the effects of the late revolution in the Holy Land, had thrown serious discouragements in the way of their enterprise. Not a Frank traveller had ventured through the proposed route for about two years; and the probable lawless and uncurbed state of certain tribes bordering on Syria, augured nothing favorable to the undertaking. In consequence of the late unfavorable news received from that direction, the American consul spake of such a journey in rather discouraging terms; and, indeed, every gentleman in Cairo with

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PROTESTANT MISSION.

abuse. Now he is not only protected, but a Protestant mission has been established at Cairo, where service according to the church of England, is performed every Sabbath. The boys from the missionary school attend the public service in the chapel, and I was informed that several of them were children of Mohammedan parents. During my stay at Cairo I attended at that place of worship on the Sabbath. These children serve as the choir, and I was pleased with the softness and sweetness of their voices. Their parents are induced to send them to this school that they may acquire the English language, which is becoming an important accomplishment. The free opening for Europeans and Americans to travel through Egypt, brings large numbers of them there every winter. This intercourse will gradually diffuse among that people some knowledge of civilization and refinement. The Pacha's schools, too, may yet lay the foundation for a better state of things in process of time. When natives capable of being teachers are raised up, the people may share the benefits, and science spread. This would assuredly produce a revolution in the moral state of things in Egypt. His manufactories, also, may produce accomplished workmen, who at length may be able to set up for themselves. Indeed, much of his present management may be gradually paving the way for a better order of affairs. Here I take my leave of Egypt.

AMERICANS IN CAIRO.

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CHAPTER VII.

The Author meets two Americans in Cairo-Contemplated Journey through Arabia Petra-Discouragements-Preparations to proceedCommencement of the Journey-General Appearance of the DesertCamels and Dromedaries-A Caravan murdered-Arrival at SuezDescription of Suez-Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites-The Fountains of Moses-Journey onward in the Desert-Well of Howara, or the Marah of Scripture.

ON my arrival at Cairo, I providentially met two American gentleman who had recently returned from the cataracts of the Nile, and had been making some arrangements to go to Palestine by the way of Suez, Mount Sinai, Akabah, and the ruins of Petra. A written contract had been made a few days before, through the American consul at Cairo, with the Bedoin sheik, Tueileb, so well known among travellers, to convey them and any others that might accompany them, as far as Akabah. Another written agreement had been made through the same medium, with sheik Hassein, the head of the Alloeen tribe, to convey them and others who might accompany them, from Akabah to Hebron, by way of the ruins of Petra. Late news, however, of the disordered state of Syria by civil war, and the effects of the late revolution in the Holy Land, had thrown serious discouragements in the way of their enterprise. Not a Frank traveller had ventured through the proposed route for about two years; and the probable lawless and uncurbed state of certain tribes bordering on Syria, augured nothing favorable to the undertaking. In consequence of the late unfavorable news received from that direction, the American consul spake of such a journey in rather discouraging terms; and, indeed, every gentleman in Cairo with

98

ROUTE DETERMINED.

whom they conversed on the subject, withheld advice for them to proceed. My first conversation with them gave spur to the enterprise. They expressed a wish that I would accompany them. I was indeed anxious to pass over that interesting route. It would lead through a country which, aside from the Holy Land, I considered from its sacred historical and prophetic scenery, the most interesting portion of our globe. Our route would embrace a very large part of the road travelled by the Israelites in their journey from Egypt to the promised land. It would lead through Idumea, the ancient land of Esau, as well as through a portion of the inheritance of Ishmael. I should see the place of the Israelites' wonderful passage of the Red Sea. I should be permitted to stand on the holy mount where Jehovah came down amidst thunders and lightnings, and delivered the tables of the law to his servant Moses. I should see the ruins of Petra; and, through the doomed land of Idumea, read sacred prophetic fulfilments written as with the finger of the Almighty. I considered myself peculiarly fortunate in having such an opportunity offer of travelling through that interesting region, which, on leaving my native land, I had scarcely dared to anticipate. Finally, I encouraged the enterprise, and said, "I will go."

This engagement was made very soon after my arrival at Cairo. Preparations were immediately put in train for accomplishment. A dragoman, or interpreter, and a cook were hired to accompany us. The name of the first was Mahomet Russeta, a large, dark-colored Egyptian Arab, and a native of Cairo. He had accompanied Mr. A. and B., my two future

AN ARABIAN TENT.

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companions, on their late journey up the Nile. Our cook's name was Comeo. He had accompanied Professor Robinson through Arabia Petra, in 1838. We found him a fine, resolute, and trustworthy servant, faithful in every thing, and ready to defend us to the last moment. We purchased a tent for ourselves, and one for our servants. Ours was furnished with two strips of carpetting to spread on the ground, on which to lay our bedding when we slept. Some soft bread, for the first part of our journey, was purchased, and also a full supply of hard bread. Beans to make soup, rice, butter, eggs, pressed dates, dried apricots, oranges, coffee, sugar, a few fowls, and some meat. Some cooking and other utensils were laid in. We also purchased for each of us a camel-saddle, and a huge pair of saddle-bags. The sheiks who were to conduct us, had enjoined upon us that we must go armed. To this I at first demurred; but as my companions were provided with swords and pistols, a double-barrel gun, belonging to one of them, was assigned to me, to sling over the pummel of my saddle. Indeed, we armed ourselves not so much with the expectation of using our weapons in combat, as for the purpose of making show of them, as we passed among the Bedoin Arabs of the Desert. I now think, from experience, that we adopted the best policy by taking them.

Mr. Gliddon kindly procured for us the Pacha's firman, which, in other words, was a passport for our protection and uninterrupted passage as far as his dominions extended. Also, through the same medium, a letter was obtained for us, from the Greek Convent at Cairo to that at Mount Sinai.