250

VIEW OF THE CITY.

CHAPTER XVI.

Description of Jerusalem-Buildings and Streets-Bazars and Manufactories-Dress of the Inhabitants-Convents of the different SectsJews-American and English Missions-Church of the Holy Sepulchre -Stone of Unction-Description of the Sepulchre Chapels-Cavalry -Impressions-Monkish Legends-Pool of Hezekiah-Site of the Ancient Temple-Mosque of St. Omer-Remnant of Ancient Wall-The Jews' Place of Wailing.

Or the situation and external appearance of Jerusalem, the reader will form the best idea by supposing himself approaching from the north. At the distance of two miles out, he would stand on a rise of ground, and see before him a broad plain with some slight undulations, but sloping gradually to the south. Beyond this he would see the walls and domes of the Holy City. Advancing a short distance, he would cross the shallow bed of the Kedron, which sweeps round from the north-west. At that place of crossing, the valley of the Kedron is small; but he would see it at his left, bending round to the south-east, and then to the south, deepening as it advances. It passes directly along the east side of the city, separating Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. At that place it has become deep, and is, called the valley of Jehosaphat. Passing south half a mile beyond the city, it takes a more easterly direction, and is known as the valley of the Kedron till it terminates at the Dead Sea. Advancing from his first position one mile, he would see at his right hand the shallow basin which forms the beginning of the valley of Gihon and Hinnom, both being but the continuation of the same valley. This valley

the chin, and falling down to the feet. The Arab and Turkish women always wear veils, and yellow morocco boots with long, pointed toes. In the after part of the day, hundreds of these are seen walking in the Moslem burial-grounds around the city. But from the mingled population of Mohammedans, Jews, native Christians, and the large number of pilgrims seen there, Jerusalem presents almost every fashion of dress and every shade of complexion.

The

The city is divided into different quarters. The main Frank, or Christian quarters are in the northwest part. These include the various convents, churches and residences of the different sects. Jews' quarters are in the south part, particularly between Mount Zion and the wall of the Mosque of St. Omer. It is the most filthy and wretched portion of the city. The entire population of Jerusalem, at the time I was there, was estimated at about 16,000. Of these about five thousand are Jews, four thousand Christians, and the remainder Mohammedans, chiefly Arabs and Turks. This estimate I received from Mr. Whiting, American Missionary at Jerusalem, and Mr. Nicolayson, English Missionary to the Jews.

Of the native Christians, the Greek Church has the greatest number under its influence; that is, more than any other sect. They have in Jerusalem eight convents for men, containing in all, about sixty monks. The principal one is directly adjoining the church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the roof of the church may be used as a terrace for its inmates. All the others are minor establishments,

chiefly used for the accommodation of pilgrims, and are kept by one or two monks and lay brethren. There are five convents of Greek nuns, containing in all about thirty-five. These, like the monks are all foreigners.

The Latins have but one convent for monks, but it is a very spacious establishment. It covers several acres of ground, has massive walls like a fort, and is every way so constructed as to be capable of making a good defence. It is a community of itself, and has within it provisions for carrying on a variety of work. At present it contains between forty and fifty monks. Most of the European and American travellers take quarters in this convent. We quartered there during our stay in Jerusalem, and were favored with very tolerable accommodations. No definite charge is made for board, but on departing, each person is expected to leave a suitable compensation.

The Armenians have a large monastery on Mount Zion, said to be the wealthiest in the city, with the splendid church of St. James. A short distance from that is a small convent of Armenian nuns. Outside of the walls on Mount Zion, they have what they call the house of Caiaphas, which, besides a church, serves as a convent, and is occupied by monks. Those of the Armenians not attached to the convents, are principally merchants, of whom a few may be reckoned in the population of Jerusalem.

The Copts have a small convent on the north side of the pool of Hezekiah. There is a small convent of the Abyssinians, and also a similar establishment belonging to the Syrians.

The Jews have a large synagogue at the foot of Mount Zion, and whether they have any other my notes do not serve me to say. Most of the Jews in Jerusalem and other parts of Palestine, are of Spanish or Polish origin. Most of the former are descendants of such as were driven out of Spain in the 16th century, and who fled at that time into Palestine ; the stock having maintained a precarious existence in the Holy Land ever since. A large proportion of the Jews, however, are those who have come personally from different parts of Asia and Europe, for the purpose of living in the midst of, and at last lying down in the sepulchres of their fathers. At Jerusalem they are a degraded and oppressed people, living for the most part in poverty and filth. I should doubt, from all that I heard, whether there is one real wealthy Jew in Jerusalem. Charities are sent to them from their brethern abroad, and on these they partly subsist. They are generally ignorant, and of the most bigoted class. Of all around them, they are, perhaps, the least accessible by Protestant missionary laborers. Mr. Nicolayson has been a missionary to them for a considerable number of years, appears to be a good and devoted man, but has thus far been enabled to accomplish but little.

An American mission has been established at Jerusalem for a number of years past. With the Rev. Mr. Whiting I formed a pleasing acquaintance. He is a gentlemen of talents and piety, but his labors have to encounter a fearful odds of bigotry and prejudice. To the native Christians he can have but very little access, and to the Mohammedans,

258

CHURCH OF ENGLAND.

comparatively none. Those of the sects residing in Jerusalem are of the most ignorant and bigoted sort, constantly watched and guarded by their numerous priests and monks. The established church of England is now erecting in the Holy City, a costly church, and has already ordained and sent out a bishop of Jerusalem, to the no small jealousy of the other sects there. But what can the bishop of Jerusalem do? Where is the church, or where the communicants of his diocese? He certainly has none now, unless he has imported them with him, and time must determine whether he ever will have. A bishop without subjects is as inefficient as a general without men. The plain fact is, Jerusalem lives on pilgrimages, and is of almost all other places the least accessible by Protestant missionary labors. And yet it would seem that Protestantism should have some representation in the Holy City.

One of the main objects of attraction in Jerusalem is the church of the Holy Sepulchre, situated in the north-west part of the city. It is a vast pile and assumes to cover not only the tomb of our Saviour, but that part of Calvary on which he was crucified. All the different sects of native Christians have places in this church which they call their own; but the Latins, Greeks, and Armenians have the three largest chapels in it. The key of the church. is kept by the governor of the city, and is opened only at fixed hours; but at the time of Lent approaching Easter, it will be sure to be open a part of every day. The entrance is from a small court on the east side, where persons will be seen selling crucifixes, beads and other trinkets. When the