now scattered about in mournful confusion and desolation. Most of the stones were only roughly hewn. In a prominent place is still partly standing an ancient castle. It is quadrangular, the sides measuring sixty-two feet by forty-two, and facing towards the cardinal points.* The walls are evidently ancient, and have on the northern and western sides a sloping bulwark, like the citadel in Jerusalem. These ruins are regarded as marking the site of the ancient Carmel of the mountains of Judah. Here King Saul set up his trophy of victory over Amalek.-1 Sam., xv. 12; and here Nabal was shearing his sheep when the affair took place between him and David, before alluded to.

Less than one hour further brought us to the ruins of ancient Ziph. These lay a little to the right of our path, and are situated on a low ridge, between two small valleys which commence here, and run towards the Dead Sea. Among them there is little to be seen except broken walls and foundations, mostly of unhewn stones. The whole, however, covers a very considerable tract, and indicates that a town of strength and solidity once stood there. In the middle is a low, massive, square building, constructed of squared stones, and vaulted within with pointed arches. This shows that the place must have been inhabited long after the Mohammedan conquest.* There are several stone reservoirs or cisterns still remaining. In the midst of the ruins is a narrow sloping passage, cut down into the rock. This terminates at a door with a subterranean chamber beyond, which may have

* Robinson.

served most probably as a magazine. There are others in the vicinity, which probably, were only suburbs. It was in a mountain near Ziph, that David concealed himself a length of time when hunted by Saul, and the treacherous Ziphites made a covenant with Saul to deliver David into their hands. This would probably have been accomplished had not an invasion by the Philistines called Saul away from the pursuit. 1 Sam., xxiii. The whole region over which we were now passing is famous as the ground over which David fled from place to place when pursued by the deadly malice of Saul.

Our course now led, as near as I could judge, in a north-north-west direction. In one hour and a half we came to a rich, fertile valley, which, coming from the south, enters the broad valley in which Hebron is situated. Vineyards, orange, lemon, fig, apricot, and pomegranate trees were numerous. Small whitened buildings spotted the valley, in the midst of luxuriant olive groves, and the vineyards, rising on terraces each side of the valley, give to the whole scene a picturesque appearance. Every thing appeared in beautiful contrast with the lonely solitude of the desert, to which we had been so long confined. Passing down by the side of this valley for some distance, we at length descended into it. Hebron lay but a short distance before us, and at that place presented a pretty and inviting appearance. At 1, P.M., we had selected a pleasant, green spot, west of the city, to pitch our tents. It was directly by the side of a large Mohammedan burial-ground. The day was warm, and soon we

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were seated under the cover of our tent, contemplating the mercy of the Most High, in protecting us through our long and dangerous journey of the desert.

CHAPTER XV.

The Governor of Hebron-Visit to the Tomb of Abraham-A Shameful Repulse-Description of the Tomb-Bazars-Manufactories-Jews in Hebron-General Appearance of the Town-Pools of Hebron-Tombs of Jesse and Abner-Vineyards-Abraham's Tree-Plain of MamreReflections-Parting with our Arab Guides-Departure from HebronRuins by the way-Pools of Solomon-Arrival at Bethlehem-Convent and Church of the Nativity-Place of our Saviour's Birth-General Apppearance of Bethlehem-Valley of the Shepherds and David's Well-Departure from Bethlehem-Rachel's Tomb-Arrival at Jeru

salem.

Ir was now only about one o'clock, P.M., and we concluded we should have ample time to make our examinations in and around Hebron, and leave early in the morning for Bethlehem and Jerusalem. After adjusting things in our tent, we concluded first to call on and pay our respects to the governor of Hebron. Soon we were conducted to Sheik Abdel Rahmon, the acting governor. He was a large, brawny-looking man of about forty, with coarse features, high forehead, and large head. His dress was rather ordinary for one of his dignity, but his whole appearance indicated resolution, courage, and muscular strength. He received us affably and with a smiling countenance; expressed much gratification in seeing us, and said it had been a long time since any Frank travellers had come through the desert before. He expressed a disposition to aid us in any thing we might need, would furnish us fresh provisions, and see that we had horses the next

morning to convey us to Jerusalem. In the midst of this conversation, we were served with coffee.

An early object of our visit to Hebron, was the large mosque which covers the tombs of Abraham, Sarah, Isaac, and Jacob. No modern Frank had been permitted to enter this mosque, with one exception; that of a Spaniard, who, having acquired a knowledge of the Arabic, and assumed the Moslem habit, passed himself as Ali Bey. We were resolved on an effort to gain admission into this mosque, deemed so sacred by Mohammedans, and hitherto guarded with so much Mussulman jealousy. We made our desires known to the governor. He expressed a wish that we might be admitted, but it was not for him to enforce such a privilege; he knew the keepers of the mosque were very superstitious, but he would send his brother with us, who would do all he could to gain us admission. The brother who was to accompany us, was a fine-looking young Turk, and, indeed, might be called hand

some.

This great mosque, or rather harem, is the most imposing object in Hebron, and is regarded by the Mohammedans as one of the most sacred places in the Holy Land. Its situation is prominent and commanding, and its dimensions both large and high. Professor Robinson, who measured it, found the length about two hundred feet, and the breadth about one hundred and fifty. Its height must be at least fifty feet. The stones of which it is constructed are very large, hewn smooth, and bevelled. On each side of the exterior are sixteen square pilasters, and eight at each end. These are without capitals,

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but are surmounted by a plain cornice, which extends along the whole building. Above this, the walls have been raised about ten feet higher, with a small minaret at each corner. There are no windows visible. We saw two places of entrance, both on the northern side, in front of which are flights of stone steps. The whole stands on the slope of the eastern hill, and under this huge pile is said to be the cave of Machpelah, where Abraham and the other patriarchs were buried.

The governor's brother led the way to the entrance, at the north-west corner, which brought us into a kind of hall, directly in front of which was a long flight of stone steps leading to an upper story. A short distance from the entrance, on the left side, is a small opening in the wall, through which all was darkness and nothing to be seen. This is said to be

an opening over the tomb of Abraham, and into this place Jews are permitted to look, say their prayers, and wail. Several Mohammedan priests, dressed in white, stood at the foot of the stairs, and bore the appearance of being Turks. The governor's brother applied to them to grant us permission to explore the interior of the building. This they positively refused, with a most malicious frown. An attempt was then made to bribe them with money. This offer they professed to receive with great indignity, and declared we should not be admitted for any sum we would offer. Our conductor gave them some rather angry remarks and looks, and motioned us to follow him out. He next led the way to the entrance at the north east corner, the door of which was open. But no sooner had we approached the steps leading