TRADITIONARY RELICS.

145

in length and three or four broad in the centre, one above another. The seam extends through the rock, and is seen on the back side, where are also similar gashes, though rather smaller. I could not determine that these holes were artificial, though I examined them carefully. The rock is rather a singular one; but to me it had the appearance of having fallen from the side of the mountain. There is not a shadow of ground for assuming a connection between this narrow valley and Rephidim. The part of Horeb where Moses smote the rock, must have been near to Rephidim; and this miracle was wrought when Israel was a day's march from Sinai. There is no evidence, then, that the rock here shown, was the scene of this miracle.

About fifteen minutes farther on, we came to what is called the convent of "The Forty Martyrs," from the circumstance that the Arabs once took it by surprise and killed the forty monks that were its inmates. The convent, as such, has been deserted for many years, and is now fast going to decay. We found it entirely empty, out of repair, and very filthy. Around the building is a garden and a large variety of fruit-trees. In the garden, also, is a fountain of pure water.

A few rods distant from this place, in a southwesterly direction, we commenced our ascent of Mt. St. Catharine. I need not here describe our toil and labor in ascending this bare, high, and majestic mountain. We arrived at its summit after a most fatiguing toil of three hours and twenty minutes.

Mount St. Catharine is the great rival of Sinai, in the range of mountains on this peninsula ; but the

former is a little over one thousand feet the highest, its summit being about 8500 English feet above the level of the sea. It takes the name of St. Catharine from the following legend, which the reader is left to believe if he can. I will give it in the words of Mr. Stevens: "In the early days of the Christian Church, the daughter of the king of Alexandria became converted. While her father remained a pagan, she tried to convert him; but, indignant at the attempt, he cast her in prison, where she was visited by the Saviour, who entered through the keyhole, and married her with a ring which is now in the hands of the empress of Russia. Her father cut her head off, and angels carried her body to the top of this mountain, and laid it on a rock.

For cen

turies, no one knew where it was deposited; the Christians believing that it had been carried up into heaven, until about two centuries ago, when a monk in the convent dreamed where it had been laid. The next morning he took his staff and climbed to the top of the mountain; and there, on the naked rock, fresh and blooming as in youthful beauty, after a death of more than a thousand years, he found the body of the saint. The monks then went up in solemn procession, and, taking up the body, bore it in pious triumph to the convent below, where it now lies in a coffin with a silver lid, near the great altar in the chapel, and receives the homage of all pious pilgrims." Now, on the summit of this mountain, and over the spot where this body was said to be found, stands a small stone chapel, at present much dilapidated and out of repair. In the centre of this chapel, the monks, to this day, think they can see a

VIEW FROM MT. ST CATHARINE.

147

likeness of the body of St. Catharine, in an impression made in the rock!

This mountain has but little of historical interest connected with it; at least none with the giving of the law. Although it is a most laborious task to ascend it, yet well does it repay the traveller for his pains. The day was serene, cloudless, and beautiful. None could have been better suited to our purposes of observation. Mount St. Catharine overlooks everything in its vicinity, and seemingly every mountain on the peninsula. If a boundless expanse of dark, naked towering mountains, surging up in every shape and form, can afford a scene to attract the gaze of wonder and admiration, here the traveller has it spread below him to perfection. Never had my eyes roamed over scenery in nature to compare with this. Stretching north, lay the Gulf of Suez to our left, visible nearly its entire length. To our right, stretching north-east, lay the Gulf of Akabah. Directly south lay the Red Sea, over which our eyes travelled as far as vision could stretch. Every peak of the numberless mountains around us lay below the vast eminence on which we were standing. Even over the dark, towering peak of Sinai, we could see mountains beyond mountains in the vast distance. Indeed, looking on three sides of us, countless mountains seemed spread below us, in the form of a vast amphitheatre. No man can gaze from the top of Mount St. Catharine on this vast expanse of nature, in its wildest and most desolate form, but with impressions never to be forgotten. As his eye wanders over this dark sea of desolation— as he gazes on the numberless massive peaks tower

148

VULGAR SUPERSTITIONS.

ing up in every fantastic form, spread over the vast field beneath him, he is ready to exclaim, "Great and marvellous are thy works, Lord God Almighty! just and true are thy ways, thou King of saints!"

At this great elevation the air was piercing and chilly. We seated ourselves within the little chapel, and there took our lunch and coffee. Then, reluctantly tearing ourselves from a scenery so vast, so wild, and so interesting, we set out to retrace our path to the foot of the mountain. On our return, as we entered the recess west of the plain of Rahah, we were pointed to the place where the earth opened and swallowed up Korah, Dathan, and Abiram. This is another monkish error. That occurrence took place, according to Scripture, at Kadesh, not Sinai. We reached the convent at a little past sunset.

The next day was devoted to arrangements for our final departure on the day following.

CHAPTER X.

Departure from the Convent-A Bloody Scene threatened-A Sheik's Tomb-Mountain Scenery-An Alarming Incident-Preparations for Battle-Providential Escape-Majestic Scenery-Gulf of Akabah-A Difficult Pass-Remains of an Ancient Fortress-Arrival at Akabah, and Reception-Parting with Tueileb and his men-Cities of Eziongeber and Elath-Present Fortress of Akabah-Visit to the Governor -Pastime during Detention.

January 13. Tueileb had arrived with his camels and escort of men, and the time had now come for us to take leave of the kind monks at Mount Sinai, who had indeed received us affectionately and entertained us hospitably. They make no bill of charge

to the strangers they entertain, and ask of them no remuneration for their services. There is, however, a well-known rule, which gentlemen travellers will not forget to observe. That is, on leaving the convent, to present a few English sovereigns to the old Superior. Who would go away and not do this? Surely, no gentleman. We paid the young novitiate who had served as guide, and presented the old monk who had superintended our table with a handsome present. When a few shining pieces of gold were put into the hand of the old gray-bearded Superior, his large black eyes glistened approbation of the act. All appeared satisfied, and the parting scene was warm and affectionate. Peace to that kind, simple brotherhood; and long may that peaceful convent remain a resting-place for the weary traveller. The windlass was now manned, and one by one we were slung out upon the rope, and lowered down in the same manner we had been hoisted up on our arrival. On getting down to our camels, we found the Arabs in a most angry state of quarrel, and seemingly on the very verge of battle and bloodshed. An aged sheik, called Tiger by way of distinction, had come to the convent, and insisted upon the right of supplying three of the camels necessary to convey us and our baggage to Akabah. Tueileb remonstrated, and insisted upon the right of conveying us himself. Old Tiger showed himself rightly named. His countenance actually became frightful, and his eyes flashed fire. In the height of the quarrel, he sprang and caught up his sword, which was lying a short distance from him. Tueileb and another seized hold of it with their hands, while old Tiger wrenched and