Jan. 7. This morning the sheik sent to our tent some of his fresh mutton, cooked in their way. We found so much of the wool mixed in the dish, as well as other marks not very palatable, that we ate but sparingly of his present. He informed us that he should now remain at his encampment and send some men with us to Mount Sinai, and that in five days from that morning he would meet us there with his camels, prepared to convey us to Akabah. To this we had no objection, as the distance to Mount Sinai was only about six hours' ride.

The morning was delightful, and we set off cheerfully, with the hope of arriving that day at a place of rest. Our route extended for some miles along a broad smooth valley, with tall dark mountains, as usual, on both sides. Ascending a small eminence, at about 10 o'clock, we had a distant view of Sinai. From this eminence we made a long descent over a broad sandy space, wholly bare of vegetation. At the termination of this, we entered upon a broken, rocky path, and commenced an ascent among huge rocks which had been hurled about in the most promiscuous confusion. The mountains on each side of us gathered a wild, dark, and most desolate appearance. Their broad, craggy sides rose in every fantastic form, while often their towering peaks seemed reared to battle the clouds of heaven. We dismounted and walked through this solitary and dreary pass. The sun shone clear, and the heat was very oppressive. Our camels wound along their difficult way, in the midst of rocks piled on rocks, for about one hour and a half. In several places we saw on the mountain sides copper ore, and gathered a few

specimens. In many places it appeared to be very abundant, but how valuable I was not enabled to judge. At length, making a turn in this mountain pass, we saw the valley before us extended into a plain of about half a mile wide, while directly in front was Sinai, with its dark craggy sides and awful towering peaks. The view we had of it from this point seemed to present its base as but a few rods before us, while, in reality, it was more than two miles distant. The plain on which we now entered ascended gradually for about one mile, and then descended about the same distance to near the foot of the mount. When we commenced the descent, the convent became visible-lonely but grand in the midst of the solitude. It is situated at the foot of Mount Sinai, and on the east side. Passing on this side of the mountain, we came to an Arab burial ground. Beyond this our path still extended south through a narrow defile with scattered rocks, till we came in front of the convent.

The monks had seen us approaching, and on our arrival several of them showed themselves at a door in front of their building, but elevated at the height of over thirty feet from the ground. On our dismount. ing, a rope was lowered to receive our letter from the convent at Cairo. This being read, the rope was again lowered for one of us to be drawn up. The process of drawing the rope was by a windlass, turned on the inside, and the operation of being hoisted up in this way is rather a ludicrous and dizzy performance. At the lower end of the rope was a loop, in which I seated myself, and then clenched the rope -firmly above my head. Soon I was dangling in the

air, and rising with a gradual motion. In the process I found ample use for my feet to keep myself from coming in collision with the stone wall of the building. At length, on arriving at a height opposite the door, a monk took hold of the rope and drew me in like a bale of goods. The superior, who was a venerable-looking old man of about seventy, with a long white beard, received us very affectionately, and the other monks saluted us with smiling countenances.

CHAPTER IX.

Convent at Mount Sinai-Greek Church-Chapel of the Burning BushThe Library-Charnel House of Human Skulls and Bones-The Gar den-Rules of the Convent-Accommodations for Strangers-Arabs around the Convent-Sinai and Horeb-Ascent of Mount Sinai-Legend of a Fountain-Chapel of the Virgin-Fountain of Elijah-Chapels of Elijah and Elisha-Impressions on arriving at the Summit of SinaiHermits-Plain where the Israelites Encamped-The Rock of MosesChapel of the "Forty Martyrs "-Ascent of Mount St. Catharine-A Legend-Vast and astonishing Scenery.

THE Greek convent at Mount Sinai is an irregular quadrangle, situated on the slope of one side of the valley. Part of the wall rests on the base of the mountain, while the rocks on the opposite side of the ravine are not more than twenty paces from the front of the convent. There are only two entrances; one the door by which we had been admitted, and the other a subterraneous passage communicating with the garden. This passage is secured by a strong iron studded door at each end. The walls are high and well built, of square blocks of granite, and strengthened with small towers in various parts. In a few of these are small cannon. The interior is divided

into several courts, around each of which there is a wooden balcony, from which the upper rooms are entered. The lower rooms are mostly, as I believe, used for store-houses, workshops, and cells for the monks. The last of these are small and miserably furnished; generally containing only a mat, a rug, a chair, but no table.

Tradition says that this convent was established by the Emperor Justinian, A. D. 527, on the place where a church had been built by St. Helena in the fourth century. Dr. Robinson, however, asserts, that there is not the slightest historical hint that Helena was ever in the region of Mount Sinai, or caused any church to be erected there. The great church of the convent was built by order of Justinian, about the middle of the sixth century. It is supported by a double row of granite pillars, with rude Corinthian capitals. These pillars, as well as the interior walls, are covered with a coating of thin white plaster. The altar is separated from the body of the church by a high screen, richly covered and gilded. This screen is surmounted by a large gilded cross, reaching nearly to the roof. There are many paintings of saints, great and small, all in the flat hard style common in Greek churches. Thirty-four silver lamps hang from the roof, and some of them are exquisite specimens of workmanship. The floor is very beautifully paved with marble of different colors, wrought into figures. On the altars there is quite a display of pixes, chalices, and crosses, set with precious stones. They show the silver lid of a sarcophagus, representing a full-length figure of the Empress Anne, of Russia, who, it seems, intended to be buried here.

CHAPEL OF THE BURNING BUSH.

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Another is shown, covered with a white pall, said to contain the bones of St. Catharine, which were found in the neighboring mountain, whither, according to the monkish legend, her body was conveyed by angels. The alcove over the altar exhibits, in Mosaic, a large picture of the transfiguration, and portraits of Justinian and his Empress Theodora.

The most sacred spot is the chapel of the Burning Bush. We descended a few steps from the interior of the church to a low door, where we were desired to take off our shoes before entering this sanctum sanctorum. I really thought the old superior and monks made more ceremony about admitting us, than reverence after we were in. The spot designated the Burning Bush, is covered with silver, over which are several lamps continually burning; and the whole chapel is richly carpeted. Near by they show the well also, from which (as they say) Moses watered Jethro's flocks. On the altar were lying two very beautiful MSS. of the gospels. The exterior of the church is without any architectural beauty. On each side of the entrance I noticed several shields and coats of arms, rudely engraved on the stone. These, no doubt, were memorials of the chivalry of the crusades, and perhaps scratched with their daggers by some knightly pilgrims.

Besides the great church, there are twenty-four chapels in different parts of the convent. Some of these formerly belonged to the Latins, and some earlier to the Syrians, Armenians, and Copts. At present, they are all in the hands of the Greeks. One of these, I noticed, is dedicated to St. George. It is gaudily adorned, containing flat staring pictures of