smooth river, in silence broken only by the measured music from the oars of their liveried rowers, rather than in carriages to jolt along rough roads, reverberating with the discord of whips and clatter of horses' hoofs. It is, however, a good day's journey to and from Hampton Court by the river, and this route leaves the visitor but an hour or two to see the palace. For an out-of-doors excursion, making the palace the goal, and seeing only its grounds, few things are pleasanter than this water trip. Many steam-boats leave the metropolis in the morning, and reach, with a favourable tide, Richmond, fitly named by our Anglo-Saxon ancestors as the "Shene" or beautiful, in about two hours. Being here, you should ascend the hill, for the sake of one of the most gorgeous panoramas of English landscape of which our own most picturesque country can justly boast.

Having descended the hill, if you care not for a few shillings, and have time to spare, you will engage, at the foot of Richmond Bridge, a couple of stout watermen-for it is hard work tugging against the stream-to row you up to Hampton Bridge, and in your going or returning refresh yourself with an eel-pie of singularly artistic merit, on the ait of Twickenham. The pedestrian has a choice of pleasant, peaceful paths; through Richmond Park-where there are oaks which would inspire a Druid;-by the banks of the river, to Kingston, and thence through Ditton, when he will obtain the first view of Hampton Court, already spoken of; or crossing Kingston Bridge, through Bushy Park. There is but little difference in the distance of any, and all afford charming walks.

But there are some steamers which ply from the metropolis as far as Hampton Bridge itself.

The residents on the banks of the Thames above Hampton Court do not need to be reminded what a delightful means of reaching Hampton their clear, lively river offers-rowing or punting down, and being towed back by an up-country barge. Even from Southampton, by means of the SouthWestern Railway, we may arrive at Hampton Court in almost less time than by a turnpike-road from the metropolis.

By whatever road you reach Hampton Court-east, from Kingston; west, from Hampton; or north, through Bushy Park, when you will pass the "lion" gates, the principal entrance to William the Third's portion of the palace—you should be careful that your

ENTRANCE TO THE PALACE

is through the gates at the foot of Hampton Bridge. Historic associations, awakened by the many very opposite aspects of the place, will then arise in due chronological review; and the numerous beauties will reach their climax as you make your exit from the gardens. But before you pass through

these latter gates, decorated with heraldic emblems and trophies of William III., it will be well worth while paying the toll of two halfpence [pence on Sundays] to stand on the centre of Hampton Bridge, and thence obtain a general impression of those portions of the palace which own Cardinal Wolsey as their architect.

"Towris hie, ful pleasant shal ye finde,

With fannis fresh, turning with everie winde;

The chambris and parlers of a sorte,

Wythe bay-wyndows goodlie as may be thoughte:"

thus sings old Chaucer;-and Skelton, a contemporary satirical poet

"With turrettes and with toures,
With halls and with boures,

Stretching to the starres,

With glass windows and barres;

Hanging about their walles

Clothes of golde and palles,

Arras of ryche arraye,

Fresh as floures in Maye."

Behind the row of venerable elms, which somewhat conceals the front view, the palace appears like a little town, and well it may, for its buildings are calculated to cover eight acres; as the eye here does not rest upon modern disfigurements, this view probably gives a very true impression of its original character. After passing through the gates, the long line of low brick barracks on the left, nearly joining the palace; the heavy, shapeless masses of brick, on the right; the roadway placed not in front, but at an angle of the palace gateway; the incongruous and shabby modern windowframes, impertinent substitutions for ancient mullions and lattices, afford so many evidences of the cruel neglect and improper stewardship to which the palace has been subjected in former times. It is consoling to observe modern restorations of chimney shafts and pinnacles, and of a mullioned window here and there, all in excellent and accurate harmony; and we indulge the hope of one day seeing the whole of this front, if not all the ancient remnants of the palace, restored as far as possible to their original character. The march of these welcome restorations might be hastened by a special vote of the House of Commons-a vote likely to be as popular in the House itself, as with the hundreds of thousands who annually spend holidays at this place. Instead of passing up the gravelled road, which presents the front at a disadvantageous angle, and gives undue importance to the left wing, it is best to cross the grass on the right, and approach directly in front of the centre gateway under the shadows of the old elms. The pathway must originally have taken this direction, as is clear from the aspect of the building, if were not proved by old plans still existing in the British Museum. When the palace was first erected, Hampton Bridge did not exist. In contemporary accounts payments to the ferryman frequently occur. Thus, in the twentyeighth year of Henry VIII.—

"John Raynold, ferryman [was paid] for his delygent attendance in helpyng over the workmen evenyng and mornyng, by the space of a quarter of a year, 3s. 4d."

So that the entrance to the palace would in nowise have been regulated by the present relative position of Hampton Bridge. In 1653, there was a ferry where the present bridge stands.

The centre of this western façade is a modern restoration, and it would be commendable but for the niggard denial of the groined roof under the gateway. In cruel mockery, a flat white-washed ceiling looks down on the spring of the ancient groining, of which only a corbel remains. Originally, a moat passed round the house before this front, which was connected with "an arched bridge, built over the moate that lieth between the said range of building and the Outer Green Court"- -a small court, "conteyning 3 roodes and 27 perches." See the Survey, printed in the Appendix, where the reader will find means to identify many parts of the old palace.

But before passing the gateway, if you are not pressed for time, and desire to comprehend the general size and plan of the building, you should pass into the court on the left wing, and wander among the ancient gloomy passages, with their effects of light and shade strongly marked through the massive walls, offering ready-made pictures at every step.

Hereabouts is a court, called the KITCHEN COURT, which was probably one of the five courts of the palace, spoken of by Hentzner, in 1596.

Excepting the circular modern building in the centre, used as a kitchen, this court, with the semicircular bay-window of

the "withdrawing-room" of the hall, and the gable of the hall, preserves its ancient characteristics nearly untouched. Traversing any of the passages on the left of this court, you will pass to the north side of the palace, called the

and these portions convey a good idea of the size of the old palace. Though much disfigured and neglected, they still retain a look of real antiquity. At the end of this lane the passages on the left lead to the TENNIS COURT itself, the interior of which may be seen from them. The Tennis Court was more likely erected by Henry than by Wolsey. Expenses for its construction are among the public records of Henry VIII.'s reign.

"Master wyredrawers were paid for the wyndows of the new Tennys play, some at 16d. the day, and others at 8d."

There was also an 66 open tennis-play," and the "bowlyng allys" were near the "tennys playes;" so there was no lack of such pastimes. A search in this neighbourhood will enable you to find a court (present chapel court ?) thus mentioned :