I suppose a section to be thus :—

Coral

Volo a nic

Coral

This is most clear. It was so late that I resolved to cut Dillon Bay, and enter Havannah harbour (Island of Vaté).

April 27th.-Made Sandwich Island or Vaté early, but did not draw up there till I P.M., then steamed into Havannah Harbour, the wind turning to N.E. and N.N.E. Here the coral steps rise to the hill tops. There is a Hat island in the entrance, a knob 200 feet high, with a wide flat base. This is in one stage, but there are many hill tops which were Hat islands thousands of years ago, and which now have four or five coral steps. As we went up, a Mr. Young came off in his boat, to offer as pilot, but I declined. Then came Mr. McDonald, the missionary, and accompanied me to the anchorage. I asked him to assemble the chiefs on Thursday, to be talked to. I anchored in Matapoua Bay, and Mr. H. came on board. I had from him the cases of all those vessels which have committed enormities, in a straggling fashion, but something to go upon at all events. The first thing that struck one was that every canoe had a little sprit sail of canvas or duck. The natives, unlike those of Tauna, care for European handkerchiefs, and so on, and wear a lava-lava. The canoes tried to catch the ship, and as we wound our way to the anchorage. At 5.30 P.M. I landed with Stanley, and had a bathe after a little walk in the plantation of Mr. Hebblewhite.

paddled just after her

April 28th.-Landed at 2 P.M. with Stanley, at Missionary Point; saw Mrs. McDonald and children, and then went on to

Mr. Young's, who has a place which really might be nice. There are well planted orange and other trees in fine condition. He showed us the way across the hills, and begged us not to go; but Stanley thought we could go back by the top of the range; so bidding good-bye to him, away we went headlong, taking everything as it came; cane brake and bush, fern and forest. The cane brake was fully eight feet high, and very thick indeed, so that one frequently had to lie down to clear it away; my knife, which I always carry (fifteen inches long), was no good against the flinty stems, and we had to bear it down with our weight.

Once we thought of giving up, and returning; once of going down a ravine, and so getting on to the low foreshore, but Stanley's pluck prevailed, and carried us on. Sometimes he went first, and sometimes I. I was never more worked, but pluck remained, and endurance too, for we only felt what the absurdity and annoyance would be, and knew that we were safe in passing the night on shore. We had left Mr. Young's house at about 3.40, and parted from him at perhaps 4.30. It was too late. We got on forcing our way bit by bit till dusk, and by that time had got too far away altogether to the northward, as we afterwards found; this was in our desire to avoid the long grass. At dusk, by a miracle, Stanley hit on a path, and we followed it, first with our eyes, then with feet only, and were in good hopes of our getting down; but suddenly, it led us into a wood by a large tree, and we were done for.

Stanley struck a match, and we tried to get fire; but the leaves and twigs were so wet it was impossible. Then with three other matches we explored the road, and got a little way down on what was really, I think, a path, but it was impossible to go on, even by day. It was not easy next morning to follow a path like this, where the underwood was not very thick. By 7.15 we were done, and laid down. Tried again to light a fire, but it was no good, and our matches were nearly all used; so there was nothing for it but to lie down and laugh, and try and pass the time. I was glad

to have a jersey on, to keep the perspiration on me; we were quite wet through, and the ground was quite damp. I put the towel which I always wear round my hat under my shoulders and back. We had left our coats in the boat, as usual. To pass the time we began an imaginary game of bézique. Stanley modestly put down the ten of trumps, and when I immediately took it with an imaginary ace we both laughed so, that that stopped. We then invented smart things to say to those who should attempt to chaff us for losing ourselves, and so on; till at last we fell asleep. The night was lovely and starlit, and Stanley soon had a nap. I not so soon, though I was not uncomfortable, except in the thought of the bother which people were having in going after me. We saw the moon rise at midnight, and get overhead about 5 A.M. My perspiration never dried all night, it was so mild and damp, and I never got very stiff. With the first dawn we were at work, trying to spell our way, but soon lost the track. Had we waited for more daylight, I think that we should have stuck to it and kept it; but impatient, and thinking that we were much too far up the valley, we went on up the hill again into our path, and struck to our right across knee-high grass and fern again. This led us to the crest overlooking the harbour, and we saw the ship.

Getting on a big rock we waved and shrieked, though we knew they could not hear; but there were no signs of their seeing us. And at about 6.30, or earlier, we dashed down the hill, which is here, as at Mr. Young's, made of successive terraces of coral with wide levels. We soon repented us. The grass, which had looked short and easy from above, turned into canebrakes nine feet high and twined with wild yam, until the labour really became terrible, and Stanley nearly professed to give in. We had nearly an hour of this, then came to a wood belt, cut fairly through it with my bush knife, and found a path at the foot, almost obliterated, but still traceable. In ten minutes we reached the corner of Mr. Hebblewhite's maize field; in fifteen we were on the beach and in the stream, and hailing the ship for a boat and clean clothes. We were iust in time to stop the dingy with a party going in search,

and heard seven bells, 7.30, strike; very happy indeed to have got to the end of our work. We were on board by 8, and drinking a cup of chocolate; and by 9 had breakfasted and were ready for anything, only a little shaky on our pins from excitement. I found that Mr. Hebblewhite had sent his men for me last night, and that Mr. Macdonald, Mr. Young, and Fullerton had gone off this morning. I could only be very sorry that I had given so much trouble. Fullerton and Mr. Young came down the ravine which we refused in fear of a precipice.

At 1.30 I went down to the missionary's to meet the chiefs. He had told me that at a meeting of chiefs one old man, from a village called Lilipa on Protection Island, annoyed at his preaching to them at a feast of their own-a sing-sing-threatened him and said, "Remember that I killed the Samoan missionaries when they came, and now I will kill you."

I thought it would be a good thing to get them all together, and to tell them a few words; and so they came. The meeting was to have been at a neighbouring village, but the chiefs of the village said "No; but let us have it at a distance, for fear some insult should be apprehended where none is meant." It was doubtful at first whether the chiefs from Lilipa would come. However, two came; and I then told them all that I was glad to see them, and hear that they were all friendly with the white men; that was right, let it so continue. Together with the whites they would be strong, but alone and without them, weak. They were not like the people of Mai, and Api, and Mallicolto, who have no chiefs ; they understand good government. There are not many chiefs present here to-day, but let them tell the words I have said to others. I suppose the strong wind has prevented those from a distance, those from Lilipa, from coming; but do you who are present repeat my words to them. There may have been some foolish words spoken by one or two, but these are forgotten; and a dog that barks loud does not always bite. I have finished."

The Lilipa chiefs both sniggered, and the others looked and pudged at them; and they evidently understood much of what

was said before it was translated. The chief of the neighbouring village took up his parable in reply, and said, "Yes! that it was good, and that whites and natives were always to be one. The white's law was a strong wind." I then walked back to the anchorage, and through the neighbouring houses or village, which

The

were not bad for this island, but were very low and smoky. opening is on the lee side, a great long opening, disclosing a view of women, cooking pots, &c., &c. The husband was sitting on a mat in front, and the compounds in which the houses are placed are very cleanly and tidily swept. At one man's house some excellent baskets were made, and I bought some, as well as a meat dish, fairly carved.

April 30th.-The chiefs all came at 10.30, and I said much the same as yesterday, and gave them each a new sulu, and a good knife to each of three of them. They are very like Malays in their dress and look, and are fond of the orange colour of yellowochre, with which they colour their sulus.

I arranged with Mr. Young to take a man of his back to Pentecost Island. The story is this. Four men either left a plantation or swam ashore from a vessel, and came to Oila. Then in passing Ford's they persuaded a youth to join them, came to the mouth of Havannah Harbour, took a canoe, crossed to Deception Island, got some men from Davies's to accompany them, took a big canoe, came across to the north end of Nguna