teen miles away, up a narrow ravine, with an excellent road to about 600 feet, and then over a gap into a long valley of the little Porirua river, with small farms and nice modest little homesteads on each side, some very trim; so much more so than one would expect, with labour at from 6s. to 8s. a day. While at Porirua we walked over some hills and through some water to a Maori village, or the remains of one. They own a fair bit of land, and are well off, but seem to spend their rents immediately they get them on drink, and then to beg of the Government. They came round us, and put their hands to their mouths, calling "Kai! kai !"* to the Governor. One was a wretched old man, with a brown coat, and tattooed all over. An old woman, with a spare dignified face and tattooed lips, was the wife of a chief who died last year, and had in his time cut out the tongue of an interpreter to prevent his revealing Maori secrets. She wore a rude head-dress-a band of black feathers-and had a red Tartan shawl on her shoulders. They like the Tartan shawl better than anything apparently. It was all very wretched and squalid.

CHAPTER II.

AUCKLAND-KAWAU-SAVAGE ISLAND-SAMOA.

Monday, October 13th.-H. M. S. Clio arrived.

October 16th.-H.M.S. Clio sailed.

[On the departure of H.M.S. Clio, bearing the broad pendant of Commodore Stirling, Captain Goodenough became senior officer on the station, and hoisted his broad pendant as Commodore.]

October 18th.-Took off the Governor, Sir James Fergusson, and weighed under sail at 12.

October 22nd. Zealand), at II P.M.

Reached Auckland (North Island, New

October 23rd.-The Governor landed under a salute and manned yards, and I followed him, and walked with him from the pierhead, where he was met, to the end of the main street. There we mounted on a dais," and the Governor received an address. After this, and volunteers and band, we drove off to Government House, a handsome wooden building, with beautiful rooms in baddish repair, and good gardens; and here was another detachment (or the same over again) of volunteers-some as highlanders, and band, and people who came in shoals inside the grounds. I made acquaintance with Sir George Arney, the Chief Justice. Looked at Commodore Burnet's grave, then to the Botanical Gardens, Domain, and to Mount Eden, a very perfect extinct crater, long held by the Maoris as a fortified Pah. From this we had a glorious view, extending from the distant Waikato hills, and middle ranges, to Manukau and Auckland harbours on our right and left, the one opening to the East and the other to the West Sea, and beautiful fields of grass, and gentle hills at our feet,

They are mostly

where quantities of pretty villas stood about. slight and built of wood, but look none the less well for that. Sir George Arney had much to say about Bishop Selwyn, and all that he has done, and pointed to the building which he had raised, the theological college, the seat of the Melanesian Mission Kohimarama, before it was moved to Norfolk Island. He has left a great name certainly, so many speak of him. From Mount Eden we went down to the foot, then drove three in a little buggy, and went away across country to a lovely situation looking down a combe to the water. I can't make out how they manage to keep hedges and paths so trim, when wages are at 6s. to 8s. a day of eight hours. So back to the town; it is marvellous to see what these people have done for themselves.

24th.-The Governor's levée. The natives quite at their ease, and unembarrassed. They at once recognise the Governor; one hears them say kawănā to each other as they crouch down. Here in Auckland are many more than in the South. Weighed at seven P.M., with a light air, and got out under sail, dodged along all night, making one or two tacks.

October 25th.-At eight A.M. anchored in Kawau,* one of the prettiest nooks in the world, close to Sir George Grey's very nicelooking house, which is at the neck of land marked Mourav on the chart. I at once went on shore with Commander Hastings, Algernon Stanley, and Dr. Messer, and introduced myself to Sir George Grey, who was on the pier, and welcomed me most kindly; proposed that we should walk in and about the grounds, asked me to let the officers shoot cattle and kangaroos and quails, and to allow the men to land and fish or walk about. We walked over the island, and Sir George shewed me how everything grew; a hundred varieties of fir, all the oaks, all European and semitropical plants, in short, everything useful and beautiful.

Then up to the sheep-shearing place, where were 9 lbs. fleeces coming off the backs of great sheep. He has twenty men and their

* An island about thirty miles from Auckland.

families, altogether about seventy persons on the island. I then went for a ride with Sir George, he pointing out all the views; we passed quail in numbers, and pheasants many. Kauri firs from ten years old upwards, to a hundred or a hundred and twenty; a táark, a handsome tree like an ilex, gives good shade. Then there are cabbage-tree palms, the totara, dragon trees, Dracanas in the swamps, the Japanese tree, which gives good fibre, and others. Sir George gave us dinner, then we went on board and weighed at 8.30 P.M.

November 4th.-At 5 A.M. saw Niue or Savage Island, long and low. We ran to leeward and southward of it. The sea breaking on the coast had all the appearance of breaking on this side quite a mile from it, but this is not so, it is steep to. By nine we were off the south-west point. The island seems of three levels, the lower just above water, and bare from constant surf breaking on it and through blow holes. A canoe came off in the south bay of two deepish indentations, and told us that Mr. Lawes, the missionary, lived in the next bay, so we stood on, and at about 10 A.M. hove to in a bay, where we saw a grove of cocoanut trees, a flag staff, and a row of excellent houses, built in Samoan fashion.

I went with Payton and A. Stanley, &c., in the whaler, and on landing found Mr. Lawes, whose house I walked up to and found his wife. The people were having a Fono, so several members from each village were present, and quantities poured freely into the house while we sat there, and shook hands or rubbed their noses against the back of our hands. I was a first shocked at seeing them crawl along the floor to speak to us, and apparently kiss our hands, but Mr. Lawes said it was thought rude to pass in front of any one standing up, and that this was the reason why they stole along in this fashion, which at first looks grovelling.

After talking to Mrs. Lawes we went to look at the Fono, and found it sitting under a grove of cocoa-nut trees, and

occupying a circle at least thirty-five yards in diameter; not sitting in a circle, but the men from one village in a group together, then those of another village a little apart, all squatting on the ground, and dressed generally in straw hats, and blue or red flannel shirts. There is every variety of feature among these islanders, from flat squab noses and almost woolly hair, to lank hair and aquiline noses like a Peruvian Indian; the latter the most intelligent looking, but I think the former the most dignified when old. Heaps of children were knocking about, and were covered with flies; but I did not see one scabby or leprous-looking man or woman, nor any with elephantiasis. There was one woman with a goitre. The best looking and most orderly girls were dressed in long blue cotton gowns, with a small white quatrefoil in it, and this was becoming. Some girls had wreaths of white flowers round their necks, and some wore red flowers in their hair, with a spray of green leaves, which was not unbecoming.

As I

After two or three had spoken, and we had sheltered from the rain, the natives asked me to speak to the Fono. So I asked Mr. Lawes to interpret for me, and said :-" Men of Niue, I am glad to have called at your island on a day on which I find men from every village assembled, and that I thus have an opportunity of seeing you all together. Every British naval officer is glad to call here on his voyage, and to be ready to give any advice or assistance which you may need. stand here, I cannot but remember that it is just a hundred years ago since the first Englishman who visited you—the great Captain Cook, was driven from your shores by you, with spears and clubs. He was succeeded by Williams, whom you would not receive, but who succeeded after a time in sending people to teach you. Now! how great is the change! Instead of spears and axes, I see every one well clothed and well taught, and living in good houses.

"To whom do you owe this, and how has it come about? You owe it to the men who came from England to teach you and to live among you. You owe it to Williams' and 'Murray,' 'Lawes '