Prolusiones Historicæ

"The Girdle."-Etymology of the word-The belt now regarded as a synony-
mous word-The one of civil, the other of military origin--The words
now confounded-The girdle of coeval origin, and wear with the tunic-
Girdle worn by the Israelites, and by the High Priests-Custom of taking off
the girdle on entering a house-St. Paul's girdle-The leathern girdle a token
of humility-The girdle of John, the Baptist-The girdle of Elijah-The girdle
of sackcloth as a mark of mourning, and of a rope as a mark of poverty, and
of penance-Metaphorical use of the word girdle-Different mode of wearing
the belt and girdle-The waist called the girdle-sted from being the stay of the
girdle-The girdle worn with a buckle in front-Custom, which originated from
it-Splendour of the girdle amongst the Greeks-Amongst the Romans often
used as a purse-Character of the individual amongst the Romans indicated by
his mode of wearing the girdle-The proverb "ungirt, unblest"-This proverb
not always borne in mind, as the Romans took off the girdle in their
domestic retirement-The Normans slackened it, when they sat down to the
feast-The girdle worn by the Saxons-And by the Normans-Of various
degrees of value-The belts of the Longspees, and the girdles of Lord Robert
Hungerford, and Sir John de Montacute, in Salisbury Cathedral-Quotation
from Spencer-The girdle a bequest of friendship, of affectionate remembrance,
and of religious devotion-Instances of these-The girdle made a conditional

bequest The bequest of her girdle by Chrystian, the daughter of John Halle
and widow of Sir Thomas Hungerford, to the "Mother Church of Worcester"
-The girdle generally worn by the female-Quotation from the "Paston
Letters"-Remarks on the change of language-Appeal of the Author to pos-
terity-The previous extract from the "Paston Letters" in more modern lan-
guage-Saint Margaret-Request of Margery Paston to her husband-Saint
Margaret invoked by females as their especial guardian-Remarks on the invo-
cation of saints-The "Golden Legend"-The invention of the pocket, which,
probably, originated in the disuse of the girdle-The girdle made to be the
bearer of the anelace, or dagger, and of the gipciere, or wallet-Quotation from
Chaucer in confirmation of this-Etymology of the word gipciere-Quotation
from the "Archæologia" relative to the loop of a gipciere, found at Selborne-
Similar one found at West Lavington-Instances of gipcieres depicted in Strutt's
"Customs," &c.-Gipcieres made the prize of the thief-Mall Cut-purse-Quo-
tations from Grainger, Hudibras, and Swift-Instances adduced from monu-
ments of girdles suspending the anelace, the gipciere, and the rosary-Fresco
painting in the Hungerford Chapel exhibiting the imperfect figure of a man
with a crucifix at his girdle-Bishop Latimer appearing before the Commis-
sioners with a Testament suspended from his girdle-Quotation from Spencer
of a like purport-Usage of Inn-keepers of carrying at their girdles their
notched sticks, or tallies-Quotation to that effect-Custom of females suspend-
ing ornamental knives at the girdle-Reference on that subject to the "Archæ-
ologia"-The looking-glass in the 17th century suspended from the lady's girdle
This a convenient ambulatory toilet-Reference on the subject to Massinger,
and Ben Jonson-Articles borne beneath the girdle-Quotation from Chaucer-
The Sheaf of Arrows-This the name of the principal inn at Cranborne-
Enumeration of articles proved to be borne by the girdle-The girdle a general
carrier-From thence a symbolical custom-The Company of Girdlers-The
use of the girdle lingering with the Huntsman, and the Groom-The girdle of
John Halle-That of the "Galante"

p. 186-212

"The Anelace."-Etymology of the word not to be found-The word does not
occur in Fosbroke's "Encyclopædia of Antiquities"-Suggestion, that it is
the corruption of hand-lance-Argument against this-The anelace, and dagger,
probably, synonymous-Quotation from Chaucer-Sword and anelace of mutual
wear-Thus to be seen in the effigies of Lord Robert Hungerford, and Sir
John Cheney, in Salisbury Cathedral-The sword and dagger worn in a double
sheath-This testified by Butler in his "Hudibras"-Anelace worn by the
merchant as proved by the brass monumental plate of William Grevil, citizen,
and merchant, of London-John Halle attired with the anelace, and in the act
of swearing fealty-Confirmation from hence, that the portrait is not that of the
Earl of Warwick and Salisbury, who would have been armed cap-a-pee-The
"Galante," also, bears an anelace-The probability, that the commonalty carried
a knife, or whittle, in lieu of the anelace-The dagger also worn by females-
From the prevalence of the wear of the anelace, or dagger, it, probably, served
the purposes of both knife and fork-Allusive quotation from Butler's Hudibras
-The miller described by Chaucer as wearing "a Shefeld thwitel" in his hose

Chaucer again quoted to show, that the whittle was carried by the lower orders—

Invention, and rarity, of knives-Reasons, which render it probable, that the

anelace and the whittle were used instead of a knife and fork at meals-Knives

used, originally, for carving alone, as seems to appear from reference to ancient

illuminations of tables prepared for the feast-The spcon also borne for personal

use-Spoon of Henry, the Sixth-Forks, the modern introduction of—Argu-

ments in proof of this-Confirmed by reference to plates in Strutt's "Manners

and Customs," &c., and to a plate in his "Regal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities

of England"-Anecdote of Earl Goodwin-Fingers in use before forks-Quota-

tion from Chaucer-His fine portrait of "Madame Eglentine"-Censure of

retirement from the active duties of life-Quotation from Ovid-The fork some-

times in disuse even now in the lowest ranks of life-Quotation from Horace

applied to this fact-Its real meaning explained-History of the introduction of

the fork-Amusing quotation from the "Crudities" of Tom Coryat-Renewed

reference to Butler's "Hudibras"--Necessity of hastening on with this

work
p. 212-226

"The Hose."-Etymology of the word-The appellative of hose given to dif-
ferent articles of dress by the Anglo-Saxons and Normans-Anecdote of William
Rufus, as related by Strutt—as related by William of Malmesbury, and—as
related by Robert of Gloucester-Quotation from Chaucer describing the "rede
hosen" of the "Wif of Bathe"-Stockings called hose in the times of the
Saxons-And in the much later days of Henry, the Eighth-Quotation in proof
of this from the privy-purse accounts of the Lestranges-Robert, Duke of
Normandy, surnamed "Curthose” from his preference of the stockings, or
short hose, to that of the chausses, or long hose-The seller of stockings, or
short hose, called hosier-" Knytt" hose introduced in the reign of Henry, the
Eighth-Silk "knytt" hose in that of Elizabeth-Extract from Howe, the
continuator of Stowe's "Annales," describing the introduction of silk, and
worsted, stockings-Silk hose introduced in the year 1560-Worsted hose
about the year 1530-Previous to that time hose were made of cloth, and, as
may be presumed, manufactured by the tailor; and sold without the interven-
tion of the hosier-The "Company of Haberdashers"-Shorthose, Hosier, and
Cousmaker, names derived from this article of dress-Worsted manufacture
known previously to the time of Henry, the Eighth-From whence so called—
The subject of the long hose, or chausses, resumed, as being more particularly
under consideration-Introduction of party-coloured dress-Deplored by the
Persone (Parson) in his tale in Chaucer-John of Gaunt in the Cotton MSS.
depicted in a dress of the party colours of the House of Lancaster-Example
of party-coloured hose from an illuminated MS. in the library of C. C. Coll.,
Cambridge-Other instances-Quotation from Chaucer describing the "Mar-
chant" as "in mottelee"-John Halle thus arrayed in red and yellow hose-
The "Galante" dressed in long hose, but, as the original painting has been
long destroyed, it is unknown, whether they were party-coloured-The lower
orders in the middle ages, probably, superseded the use of the girdle by a slit
pocket in the hose-Quotation from Chaucer to that effect-And also from
Butler-In later ages motley adopted as the dress of the domestic fool in the

establishments of the Great-Quotation from Shakspeare-Motley now made
the dress of the convicted rogue-probability of its never becoming gentleman's
wear again

p. 226-239

"The Shoes."-Etymology of the word-Various species of-Probably the last
article of dress, which was invented-The peculiar kind of covering for the feet
influenced by the climate-Shoe and boot first made of the undried skins of
beasts-This the opinion of Benedick Baudoin, a learned French shoemaker-
Controverted by M. Nilant-Observations of the Author-Quotation from Birt-
Wear of the sandal by the Israelites-Description of the sandal-Called by the
Romans solea-The sandal translated by shoe in the Old and New Testaments
-The Jews and Turks take off the coverings of their feet in the entrance of
their places of worship-Remarks on a symbol of Pythagoras-Quotation from
Callimachus-Various symbolic uses of the shoe in the Old and New Testa-
ments-Fastening of the sandal called shoe-latchet-Quotations to this effect
from the Old and New Testaments-Generic words in the Greek, and Latin,
language for the shoe-Derivation of these words-Quotation from Alexander
ab Alexandro-Description of the different species of shoe-Concluding passage
of the foregoing quotation translated-Its assertion confirmed by Plutarch—
Remarks of the Author-The iron shoe, and singular death of Empedocles-
Derivation of his name-His conduct destructive of his honourable appellative
Those, amongst the Romans, who had served the office of ædile entitled to
wear the red shoe-The shoes of the Roman Senators-Different species of shoe
amongst the Romans-Superstition of the Romans as to the wear of the shoe-
Extract from Sir S. M. Meyrick's "Costume," &c., with the description of the
shoes of a Belgic Briton-Shoes of the Gauls-And of the Saxons-Shoes of
Charlemagne-of his son and grandson-Those of the Anglo-Saxon ladies, of
various colours-Interesting accounts of an ancient sandal described in "Do-
mestic Life in England," and of a curious pair of shoes in the 14th Vol. of the
"Archæologia”—Reasons of the Author for assigning the latter to the Anglo-
Saxon Period-Variation in the form of the Anglo-Danish shoe-Bandages
used around the leg by the Saxons and Danes-No change in the shoe, proba-
bly, introduced by Edward, the Confessor
p. 239-259

Short boots introduced in the close of the reign of William, the First-Mate-
rials of which they were made--Robert, son of William, the First, styled "Short-
Boots"-Observations as to the origin of the appellation-Changes in the fashion
of the shoe in the reign of William, the Second-Malmesbury deprecates the dis-
soluteness of the age-Origin assigned by Ordericus Vitalis to the long pointed
shoe-Robert, the Horned-Derivation of the word, Cordwainer, and remarks on
it-Reign of John-Changes then made in the shoe-Short boots adorned with
fretwork, then worn by the ladies-The boot and the shoe in the reign of Henry,
the Third, highly decorated-Splendid boots of this monarch-Embroidered
shoes of Edward, the Third, and of William, of Hatfield-Richard, the Second
-Quotations in proof of the passion for finery, and splendour of dress in this
reign-The toe of the shoe fastened by a chain to the knee-This fact doubted
by Strutt, who is shown to be at variance with himself—The usage not doubted

by Camden-Proved by the ancient work entitled "Eulogium"-And by the

portrait of King James, of Scotland, at Kielburg-Singular instance of the

versatility of fashion-Statute respecting the trades of the tanner and shoemaker

-Quotation from Chaucer demonstrative of the open-work shoe, or calcei fenes-

trati-The shoe with the long pointed toe continued the fashion till the reign of

Edward, the Fourth, and the days of John Halle-Such shoes worn by him-

Reasons for supposing that these shoes were in common wear-Statutes passed

in the reign of Edward, the Fourth, restrictive of the length of the pikes of shoes-

Cause of the neglect of the statute-Mode of passing laws at that time-Non-

compliance of John Halle with the law-Remarks on sumptuary laws-Statute

against the long-toed shoe renewed in the 22d year of Edward, the Fourth-

Extenuation of the disobedience of John Halle to the law

p. 259-272

Decline of the fashion of the long-toed shoe, and the adoption of the contrary ex-

treme-Proclamation of Queen Mary, that shoes should not be more than six

inches broad at the toes-Ladies' shoes in the reign of Elizabeth of very varied

fashion-Cork shoes-Quotation from the play of "Willy Beguiled"-Puisnets

and pantofles, what kind of shoes-The high-heeled shoe introduced in the reign

of Charles, the First, the last important change-"Clouted Shoon"-Quotation

from Shakspeare-Clouted shoe in the Ashmolean Museum-Extract of a letter

from Tom Hearne to Browne Willis-Fastenings of the shoe-The shoe-latchet

made the subject of valueless comparison-Mode of fastening the shoe probably

made use of by the Saxons and Normans-Fastening used during the middle

ages, involved in much obscurity-The high shoe, or half-boot-Different opin-

ions of Howe and Planche as to the date of the introduction of shoe buckles-These

mentioned in the statute of Richard, the Third, which is restrictive of importa-

tion-The full buckle certainly in vogue in the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth-

Fashion of the rose on the shoe-Thus worn by Prince Henry, the son of James,

the First-The fashion continued in the reign of Charles, the First-Family

portrait, by Vandyke, at Wilton-Change during the Commonwealth of the

rose into the simple bow-Revival of the buckle in the reign of William, the

Third-Continuation of the fashion till almost the present times-Proverb con-

nected with the shoe-Circumstances, which gave rise to it, as related by Pliny

-English Version of the same-Sirnames of Scheemaker, and Shoemaker-

Henry's "History of Briton" quoted-Account of Crispin, and Crispianus, the

patron Saints of the shoemakers, extracted from Brady-Company of Cord-

wainers-Their arms and hall-The throw of the old shoe an omen of good

luck-Conclusion of the Essay on the dress of John Halle, and on the progress
of fashion

p. 272-286

ESSAY VI.

MEMORIALS OF JOHN HALLE.

JOHN HALLE of great local importance in his day, but not a leading man in the
affairs of the state-From this, and other causes, not much known of his life-

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Prolusiones Historicæ: Or, Essays Illustrative of the Halle of John Halle ...