with which they are ornamented, he will tell him of the many illustrious parties, who claim these brilliant honours, and he will also disclose various particulars relative to the other members of the family of John Halle. Many other subjects will, of course, arise up in this intended volume, which will call for the exertions of the Author's pen, but which it is unnecessary for him now to particularise; and, at its close, (as in the present instance,) he will illustrate it with such notes, as he may deem necessary, and interesting.

With reference to his notes, the Author desires to say a few words. As, in the progress of his volume, various subjects of enquiry, some of them novel, and curious, in themselves, arose to his notice, he marked them, as he proceeded, with numerical references; and, last of all, he wrote the correspondent notes, which, he confesses, in many instances, assume the appearance of disquisitions. For these lengthy, and anomalous, notes his judgment, mayhap, may be impugned, but he takes shelter under the example of an author far greater than himself -whom he follows, sed à longo intervallo-that of Robertson in his excellent histories of Charles, the Fifth, &c.

The reader may, possibly, expect some explanation relative to the motto of the frontispiece. This motto "Hoc Opus, Hic Labor est" is in the well-known words of Virgil, who (as

ESSAY III.

ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF HERALDRY. ARMS OF

JOHN HALLE.

DIFFICULTY of the subject-Plan of the Essay-Distinctive standard used by

the Jewish Tribes, and by different early nations-Ensign of an individual

ship-the Saxon Standard of the horse-This standard imparted its name to two

of the first Saxon Leaders-Shields-Early devices on-At first a general

standard for the whole army-Afterwards one for each of its sub-divisions-

Operation of the feudal system

p. 25-30

Origin of personal arms-Progress of Heraldry advanced by the institutions of

Chivalry, that is, of jousts, and tournaments-Etymology of the honorary term

of Esquire-Personal arms introduced by the Normans in 1066-Armorial

tiles in the Norman Palace at Caen-Anecdote given by Agard in his Essay on

the "Antiquity of Arms in England"-Remarks on it-Personal arms at first

not hereditary-Became so in the time of the Crusades-The Chieftains im-

parted to their feudal dependants the use of their own arms-The wrong

assumption of arms

p. 30-37

Terms of the blazonry of arms originally of the Norman Language-Shields at

first of self-colour-Then divided by different tinctures, &c.-Introduction of or-

dinaries-Introduction of charges-Change of arms-Coat of arms-Origin of

this expression-Establishment of the Heralds' College

p. 37-41

Arms of John Halle-Description of, by Edmondson-Description of the arms of

Hall, of Coventry, by Guillim-Description of the arms of Halle, of Shipton, in

the Heralds' College-Errors of Edmondson and Guillim explained--Correct

description of the arts of John Halle-The Halle of John Halle proved to be

built between the years 1467 and 1484-Arms of John Halle impaled with his

merchant's mark-The family of Halle originally, and generally, devoted to

the interests of the House of Lancaster-Personal attachment of John Halle to

Edward, the Fourth-The cause of this-The colours of the arms of Halle

were those assumed by the Lancastrian Faction, being those of white and blue

-The columbine borne in the arms of Halle-That (blue) flower a cognizance

of the Lancastrians-Description of the arms of John Halle as developed in

the window of his banqueting-room-Heraldic account of the chevron-Remark

on the etoile, or star-Historical remarks on the columbine

p. 41-52.

ESSAY IV.

ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF THE STAPLE.

MERCHANTS' MARKS.

MERCHANT'S MARK OF JOHN HALLE.

QUOTATION from Aubrey-Arms of John Halle impaled with his merchant's

mark-Reasons for supposing, that John Halle married one of his own kindred-

Different opinions as to the origin of the word staple-Opinion of the Author-

The word subsequently extended in its application-The duties, or hereditary

customs of the Crown-Anderson's account of the origin of the staple-Nume-

rous statutes varying the laws of the staple-Opinion of Henry and Anderson

cited in favour, that there was a chartered Company of Merchants of the Staple

-Dissent of the Author-In the numerous, and varied, statutes no such Company

ever adverted to-Officers of the staple-Open to all merchants to become mer-

chants of the staple on the oath to obey the laws of the staple-Decline, and

final extinction, of the staple trade

p. 53-81

"Merchants' Marks."-Origin of them-Monogrammatic initials of the mer-

chant often connected with the Cross, or with the Sacred Pennon-The mono

gram of our Saviour on the Labarum, the prototype of the merchant's mark-

Merchants' marks not heraldic-Esteemed a debasement of heraldry to place

them on shields-Extract from Blomefield's "History of Norfolk" relative to

merchants' marks-Often the ornaments of the church-Mark of William

Swayne, in St. Thomas's Church, Salisbury—Extract from Dallaway-Mer.

chant's mark on a tomb in the aforesaid Church of St. Thomas-Sir H. Engle-

field cited as to other merchants' marks-Quotation from Piers Plowman-

Remarks by Sir H. Englefield-Armorial honours assumed by merchants-The

arms of John Halle impaled by him with his mark

p. 81-86

"Merchant's Mark of John Halle."-Difference of design in two pourtrayed

marks pertaining to John Halle-In these monograms, though both intended,

the staple better represented in the one, and the letter H in the other-Signifi-

cation of the Cross as connected with the monogram-The whole, in fact, a

symbolic personification (through the medium of his initials) of John Halle,

taking up the Cross of his Saviour, and trading on the good faith of the

Christian
p. 87-88

ESSAY V.

FASHIONS. DRESS OF JOHN Halle.

INTRODUCTION of John Halle to the reader-The portrait in the window con-

sidered by some to be that of Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick and Salisbury

-Reasons for this opinion-Argument, on the other hand, for its being that of

d

John Halle-An objection answered, and retorted on the opponent-Argument

drawn from historic data clearly proving, that this portrait cannot represent the

Earl of Warwick and Salisbury-Arms and cognizance of Edward, the Fourth,

in the windows-Seeming incongruity of John Halle as a Lancastrian swearing

fealty to Edward, the Fourth, explained-Situation of the portrait in the

windows

p. 88-95

"Dress," general remarks on-Changes in the fashion of Causes of this, innate

love of finery, and desire of equality-Differences of rank ordained by Providence

-Money, and commerce, remarks on-Ambition of the lower ranks-Satire of

Andrew Borde-Imitation of the French Fashions censured-Disregard of

imitation by others recommended-Censures on the hoop-petticoat-Head-dress

of the year 1777-Bishop, and gigot, sleeves-Anecdote of Sir Philip Calthrop,

and John Drakes

p. 95-105

"Dress of John Halle."-The Hungerford Chapel-Painting of "Dethe and

the Galante"

p. 105-107

"The Hat, Feather, and Brooch."-Etymology of the words, cap, bonnet, and

hat-The hat worn by the Saxons-Cap, bonnet, and hat, distinctions between-

Beaver hats first noticed in the 14th century-The beaver a native of Wales-

The hat denominated a castor-Beaver hats imported from Flanders-Change

from beaver to cloth hats, how occasioned-The Hat of John Halle of white

cloth, high in the crown-Illustration from Shakspeare-Definition of

cap

p. 108-118

"The Feather."-Etymology of-Favourite ornament with uncivilized nations

-Came into use in England in the reign of Edward, the Third-The Ostrich

feather-The feather of "the feasaunt" worn in the hat of John Halle-Henry,

the Eighth, partial to the feather-Its use during successive reigns, and total

decline in the reign of George, the First-In the earlier ages the head-dress of

females ill suited for the feather-Generally adopted by them in the early part

of the eighteenth century-In use now amongst all classes

p. 118-122

"The Broche."-Originally the word denoted a spit-Etymology of the words

broche, and spit-Respectively applied to the same article by the Normans and

Saxons-Cause of the word broche superseding that of spit-When held in the

highest estimation-The word broche, as a culinary article, transmuted into that

of spit, and itself reserved to express an article of dress-The words ouche

and nouche-Derivation of-Examples of the use of those words-Various

uses of the broche-The feather in the hat of John Halle secured by a gold

broche-Satire of Sir Thomas More-Metaphorical application of the word

broche
p. 123-133

"Hair and Beard."-Rightly embraced as a portion of the dress of John Halle-
Etymology of the word hair-Notices of different authors, and customs of
different nations as to the growth of the hair-Partiality of the Britons, the

Anglo-Saxons, and the Danes, for long hair-Anecdote of Wulstan-The

Normans wore their hair short-The former fashion revived, and denounced by

the clergy-Anecdote of Serlo-The hair, in consequence, worn short-Long

hair again becomes prevalent-Is checked in the reign of Stephen, but not sub-

dued Fashion of curling the hair from the 12th century to the time of Richard,

the Second-Quotation from Chaucer-Succeeding fashions in the wear of the

hair-how worn in the days of John Halle-His hoary locks-Worn long in the

reign of Henry, the Seventh, but cropped in that of Henry, the Eighth-Long

hair revived in the days of the Stuarts-The love-lock-Opposite fashions of

the Cavaliers and Round-heads-Origin of the peri-wig-Its decline as a fashion

-Still retained by the Bishop, and the Judge-Short hair allied with democracy

-Hair-powder
p. 133-144

"Beard."- Etymology of the word-Worn by the Jews-by the Greeks and

Romans-Anecdote of Zoilus-Worn by the Greeks till the time of Alexander

-By the Romans till the year 454 A. U. C.-The Greeks dedicated the first clip-

pings of the hair, and the Romans the first mowings of their chins to the Gods

-Age, at which the Romans first shaved-Epigram of Martial-Hadrian, the

first Roman Emperor, who wore the beard-The beard, a symbol of wisdom-

Horace quoted to that effect-The alliance doubted in a terse epigram—The

philosopher associated with the beard-To stroke, or pull, the beard considered

a great indignity-Anecdote of a noble Jew-Another of King Arthur, and

the giant Ritho-For a man to stroke his own beard considered in later ages an

appeal for favourable consideration-Quotation from Hudibras to that effect-

Swearing by the beard-Testimony of Diodorus Siculus and Cæsar, that the

ancient Britons shaved the upper lip-Error of the latter-Denial on the part

of the Author, that they did shave every part of their body, 66 omne parte

corporis rasa"-The mustache-Error of Planche, and others, proved by a

quotation from Strabo-The mustache adopted by the ancient Britons as an

object of terror-Not such at the present day-Custom of the Anglo-Saxons

with regard to the beard-Edict of William, the Conqueror-Probable intention

thereof-Revival of the beard-Denunciations of Serlo, the Norman Bishop,

against it-Anecdote of Louis VII.-William cum barbâ-Custom of succeed-

ing reigns-Anecdote of Edward, the Second-Fashion of wearing the beard in

full vigour in the reigns of Edward, the Third, and Richard, the Second-

Subsequent decline of the fashion-Beard of John Halle-In succeeding reigns

the beard only partially worn, and in the reign of Henry, the Seventh, it went

out of fashion-Revived in the reign of Henry, the Eighth-Then worn by the

clergy-Remarks by Harrison on the fashion of the beard-Universally worn in

the reign of Elizabeth-Introduction of the beardlet-The beard finally extinct

in the days of Queen Anne-Humorous remarks of the Spectator-Attempted

revival of the beard-The beard of the picture contrasted with its reality-

Quotation from Taylor, the "Water Poet"-Beard of Hudibras p. 144-170

"The Partelet."-Etymology of the word-When introduced-More in fashion
in the time of Henry, the Eighth-The partlet of John Halle-The ladies of
that æra more employed in domestic concerns-Quotation from the Paston