THE CHINESE. CHAPTER XI. CITIES-NANKING AND CANTON. Larger portion of area within the ancient Walls of Nanking depopulated— Occurrence in the last Embassy-View within the Wall-General similarity of all Chinese Cities-Streets and Shops at Canton-Mercantile Associations-Charitable Institutions-Clans and Fraternities-Temples-Inundation of European Factories-Contracted Limits of these-China-street and Hog-lane-Population of Cauton overrated-River Population-Female Infanticide-Kidnapping Children-People of the Coast-Military of CantonForts at the River's Mouth-Passed by Frigates. ALTHOUGH the circuit of the ancient walls of Nanking exceeds that of the present capital of China, it has been already stated that the larger portion of the area is now either a waste, or consists of fields in a state of cultivation. The last embassy had an opportunity of inspecting it in 1816, having been detained in the immediate neighbourhood for about two days, from the 21st to the 23d October. The opportunity was improved to the utmost, and the liberty with which we were enabled to satisfy our curiosity received some addition in consequence of an accident, wherein the firmness of the ambassador was exercised with a favourable effect. Soon after the fleet of boats which conveyed the mission had reached the suburbs of Nanking, on that great river the Keang, which flows a few miles to the northwest of the old capital, the ambassador was induced, by the reports of some gentlemen of the mission, who VOL. II. B had already explored a portion of the interior of the walls without any objection being made, to visit the nearest gate on the north-west side. On reaching it, however, a mandarin of subordinate rank, on horseback, with a pack of Chinese soldiers after him, rushed past and closed the gates suddenly in the face of the party. In return for this rudeness to the principal person of the mission, the individual who had caused the gates to be shut was requested to open them again, and it was declared that on no other condition would the ambassador quit the spot. The underling, however, who had committed the offence, showed no disposition to repair it, but took his departure in an impudent style. His excellency, on this, requested two individuals of his suite, of whom the writer was one, to proceed as fast as possible to the Imperial legate, who acted as conductor to the embassy, and, complaining formally of the insult which had been offered him, require that reparation should be instantly made. They were very civilly received on board the Kinchae's boat, who, when they had explained the nature of the offence, immediately said that the person who had been guilty of it must be out of his wits, and sent at once to the highest military officer in the neighbourhood, to desire that he would go and see the gates re-opened instantly. The two gentlemen, in the mean while, walked back to rejoin the ambassador, accompanied by a very fat and asthmatic mandarin, of the order of the blue button, who had much ado to keep up with their rapid pace. On their reaching the gate, the Chinese general who had been despatched by the legate, presently arrived, and, apologizing for the folly of the officer, caused the gates to be re-opened. The ambassador expressed himself satisfied, and declined entering the gate, telling the general and the rest that he was sorry they should have had so much trouble. A large assembled crowd had witnessed the transaction, and it evidently had a very favourable effect on their conduct, which became more civil than ordinary. In the course of the same day several gentlemen were allowed not only to pass the gate, but to proceed as far as they pleased into the interior; and, from a high wooded hill within the wall, could see the modern town to the south, which occupies barely a third of the immense area. The ancient name of Nanking (the southern capital) is still in common use, but no longer admitted in official documents, wherein it is styled Keang-ning-foo, a city of the first order, but still merely the chief town of a province. The porcelain tower of Nanking (which, however, is porcelain in nothing but its tiles) was a conspicuous object in the distance, and tempted some of the party to undertake a walk to the modern town to inspect it. They reached the suburb without interruption; but the vast and dense crowd which presently surrounded them made it imprudent to persevere, and they were obliged to give up the principal object of their excursion. It was satisfactory, however, to have gained even this insight into the present condition of the ancient capital of China, which had never been visited by a former embassy. The following is from an unpublished journal of Sir George Staunton on the same occasion. "The view from the summit of the hill (within the gate) certainly well rewarded us for the labour of the ascent, and was a perfect panorama. On one side, and, as it were, beneath our feet, lay the suburb which we had just quitted; the noble stream of the Yang-tse On keang, with its several branches, or rather subdivisions; and beyond them, the pagoda of the city of Poo-keuhien, and a distant range of hills in the horizon. the other side was a beautiful vale of many leagues in extent, the whole of which, with several lesser eminences within its enceinte, is included within the ancient boundaries of the imperial city. We could trace with the eye, assisted by a telescope, nearly the whole circuit of the walls; but within the vast space which they enclosed we looked almost in vain for the habitations of men, or any traces of the former populousness of this ancient capital of China. Even the very ruins and vestiges of the buildings which we are led to conclude must formerly have filled this space have disappeared; and at present clumps of trees, orchards, cultivated fields, and gardens, and a few scattered farm-houses occupy their places. At a distance, indeed, beyond an elevated ridge to the westward, we could perceive that a part of the valley was overhung with a cloud of smoke, which partially disclosed a few considerable buildings, and no doubt arose from that portion of the city which continues to be inhabited. We could distinguish pretty clearly the roofs of two or three buildings resembling temples, two arched gateways, and three pagodas, one of which, from its superior size and stateliness, and its proximity to the river, we immediately concluded to be the famous porcelain tower, and in this opinion we were confirmed by our Chinese conductors." The desolation which took place in this ancient seat of the native Sovereigns may no doubt be ascribed to the Tartar conquerors, who demolished the imperial palace, and even the sepulchres in the rage of war. Much, however, may be attributed to another reason, which |