wine, as all the men were away; so we went to a vineyard just opposite, called Château Rolland, where we were most hospitably entertained by the proprietor. We first visited the cellers under the house, and he got out some bottles of wine; then we adjourned upstairs to the kitchen, but the good wife insisted on our going into the parlour. Some of the wine was certainly first-rate (1875 vintage), but of that there was none for sale; and I did not much care for the 1880 vintage, though mine host said he had sent twenty barrels of it this year to the chamberlain of the King of Sweden, whose photograph he showed us, and who is an excellent customer. His price was 450 francs for a barrel of three hundred bottles, including corks, labels, and bottles. The good man had lately returned from Australia, where he had been for his health; and, after a three-years' stay, returned quite set up. He certainly looked stout and hale and hearty. But I was quite distressed that, after drinking half a dozen bottles of his wine, besides biscuits, he refused any payment. We then returned to our hotel for dinner at four. Afterwards we strolled about the town; I bought a Basque cap, and my companion some sabots for gardening. The houses and shops are all built of, or at least faced with, a stone which appeared to me a kind of oolitic limestone; this gives an exceedingly clean look to the town. It was a great treat to see so many pretty, smiling, rosy-cheeked lasses, with their neat caps or gay handkerchiefs, after a year without looking on a healthy colour, except in the Germans of Petropolis. Going off by the 7.30 boat, we left our anchorage about ten.

August 18.-The Bay of Biscay still like oil. Off Bel Île at midday, and Ushant at 10 p.m.

August 19.-Off the English coast at 6 a.m. The ship rolled a great deal all day-much more motion than we

have had since we left Rio. At 7.30 p.m. we saw the Wicklow Hills against the crimson sky.

August 20.-Woke about five. We were waiting outside the bar of the Mersey; in the course of half an hour, a dozen steamers and other vessels were round us, all waiting like ourselves. The Welsh coast looked charming in the early dawn. At length, by 7.30, we had passed New Brighton, and the tender came alongside. Above us the sky was clear; but there was a horrid smoky fog hanging over Liverpool and Birkenhead like a pall, which was depressing after returning from a land where, whatever disagreeables there may be, there is, at least, no sulphurous obscurity. We had yet to undergo something before putting our foot on English soil, i.e. the Custom House. Two long hours were spent in that shed on the landingstage, while every box and package was opened, and thoroughly ransacked for dynamite. My geological specimens were looked at somewhat, but a case of guava marmalade was pounced on. "It's jest the colour of dynamite," says one customs officer, who must needs taste it to convince himself it was not that dreaded compound.

We are once more at home. No more remains to be told. So I must wind up this part of my journal and proceed to the other portion, which, though perhaps not light reading, may be, or at least I consider it to be, more important, though I can hardly hope that all who have waded through my daily experiences will read on to the end of the book.

However, before I close I must express my grateful thanks-and I know that I should herein be joined by all our staff did they know what I am writing-to Captain Hayes of the Cotopaxi, Captain Friend of the Valparaiso, and all their officers, for their unvarying kindness and

sociability. It is not everywhere that such captains and such officers are to be met with; and I hope that, should these lines ever meet their eyes, they will accept our heartfelt thanks for the many pleasant hours they have allowed us to spend in their company-hours which for many a day it will be a delight to remember.

NOTE TO PAGE 244, LINE 33.

The Reef off Pernambuco.

Mr. Charles Darwin, in his book "The Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs," has a special note (p. 266, 2nd edition) on the "Remarkable Bar of Sandstone off Pernambuco" (originally published in the Philosophical Magazine, October, 1841). He says it is a "smooth level-topped ridge, from thirty to sixty yards in width, with even sides, and extending in a perfectly straight line for several miles parallel to the shore." It is for the most part composed of sandstone and conglomerate, and is not a coral reef.