Corcovado, the Sugar-loaf, and the entrance to the Bay of Rio. The Pedra da Gavea is also very well seen from this neighbourhood; but from its extraordinary shape it is an object of interest from every point of view.

July 26.-We visited the waterworks called Reservatorio Dom Pedro II., situate on the Morro do Pedregulho (Hill of Gravel), driving thither by tram along the St. Christovão (St. Christopher) route, about three-quarters of an hour out, partly along the road to Tijuca. It was again a grilling and cloudless day, and so from the Reservoir grounds, which are well kept, we had a beautiful view of the western portion of the Bay of Rio, with its numerous pretty eyots and larger islands, all covered with trees and verdure. I have now seen the bay from many points, and at each place find fresh beauties in the ever-varying foreground, though the wondrous gigantic Organs always form the background. It would be pleasant, indeed, to spend a month cruising about the bay, which is about one hundred miles in circumference, visiting the different islands, and making excursions to some of the many hilltops.

The large covered distributing reservoir was empty and being cleaned out, so we were able to see it. It was begun in December, 1876, and completed in May, 1880, Its dimensions are 102 metres (334 feet) by 82 metres (311 feet) by 5 metres (16 feet) deep, and the capacity 8,800,000 gallons. It is roofed by a series of twenty segmental brick arches. Situate 147 feet above the sea, it is supplied by the waters of the rivers Ouro and St. Antonio, which come a distance of thirty-two miles, and flow through syphons into the small receiving reservoir at 180 feet above the sea. A new reservoir, about the same size as the existing one, is in course of con

* Condensed from "Guia do Viajante no Rio de Janiero."

struction; all the shafts, on which rest the vaulted brick arches of the roof, are of solid stone.

July 27.-I made my second ascent of the Corcovado; but this time I was not alone, being accompanied by Mr. Large, Mr. Hector, and the two American gentlemen. Instead of going by the Larangeiras route, we went into town, and then under the celebrated aqueduct, along the Rua do Riachuelo to the Plano Inclinado, or steep tramway, up the Morro de Sta. Theresa.

The length of this line is 561 yards, and the steepest grade about 1 in 7. Besides numerous other bridges, there is one fine lightly constructed lattice bowstring of 120 feet span. The line was opened in 1884. More than twothirds of the route is double, and the cars, of which one ascends while the other descends, are attached to a wire rope, worked by a stationary engine at the upper end of the line.*

On leaving the inclined plane at 85 metres (279 feet), we entered a tramcar that proceeded about a mile over a steep and very tortuous road, by the side of the great aqueduct, to the reservoir of Sta. Theresa, at 158 metres (511 feet), enjoying along the whole route beautiful views to the north, over the St. Christovão district, and that portion of the bay which we saw yesterday from the waterworks. As the tramway extends no further, we then walked along the Rua do Aqueducto. Still following the aqueduct, which is entirely covered in over its whole length, but has many gratings to admit the air, we at last reached the place called Mae d'Agua (Mother of the Water), 306 metres (1004 feet) above the sea. These are the most ancient reservoirs in the city. It is a little paradise in the midst of the forest. A soldier, apparently on guard, glared at us as we entered * Condensed from “Guia do Viajante.”

Q

a small but beautifully kept garden, brilliant with plants and flowers; and ascending some steps, we arrived at the five tanks, into which flow the cold and crystal waters of the Rio Carioca. This river, rising in the forest between the hills of Tijuca and Peineiras, passes thence into a small building at the entrance to the aqueduct. The cool air, the rushing water, the music of the waterfalls, and the lovely flowers were indeed delightful after a two-mile walk under a cloudless sky, in the midday sun; though the road, broad and well kept, was mostly under the shade of the forest. "It is excessively poetic and enchanting to see the waters of this renowned stream rippling through the lofty forest, dashing into the reservoirs, and thence rushing into the aqueduct."

The earliest inhabitants sought for the waters of the Rio Carioca, which enjoyed a great reputation among the natives, for the supply of the population. The first canals for conducting the river into the city were made in 1657; the magnificent aqueduct, as it now exists, was completed in 1750. It is some eight miles in length, and passes over the Rua do Riachuelo on a row of two series of arches, one above the other, with forty-two spans, at a height of about a hundred feet above the street, extending from the Morro Sta. Theresa to the Morro de St. Antonio. With the exception of the substitution by the City Improvements Co., a few years ago, of one large and lofty arch instead of the double tier, where the aqueduct crosses the street, no alteration and scarcely any repairs have been necessary during the 154 years that it has existed. The aqueduct terminates in the Largo da Carioca, the square which is the principal starting-point for the tram-cars to Larangeiras, Botafogo, and the Jardim Botanico. Here there is an extensive fountain built of granite, the largest in the city; but,

unfortunately, its architecture is unworthy of the beautiful aqueduct.

As long since as 1537 the waters of the Rio Carioca were praised by Gabriel Souza, who states that the Tamoyos (native Indians), who inhabited the borders of the bay, had a tradition that its waters possessed the virtue of inspiring their poets and musicians. It was supposed also to have the power of curing melancholia and hypochondriasis. The word "Carioca" has many interpretations, of which the most probable appears to be from Kaa-ry-og, "the house of the stream from the wood."

Leaving the lovely Mae d'Agua, we soon came to the road from Larangeiras, and I took our friends to examine the railway viaduct. We then quietly ascended the Corcovado by the same route that I have previously described, and were again favoured with a cloudless view of the splendid panorama, with which all were as much enchanted as I was on both occasions. At length, the sun being low on the horizon, we were forced to tear ourselves away, and, walking down in the cool, took the tram back to our quarters at Botafogo.

July 28.-After having been in a state of expectancy, awaiting the arrival of the Valparaiso for the last two days, she really came in this morning; but as she was supposed not to leave till to-morrow, I had hoped to spend the afternoon in paying farewell visits, which the excursions of the last few days--when at length I was freed from the daily routine at the office--have, of course, prevented. However, we were informed that we must embark at 3 p.m., as the steamer would depart at four; consequently, most reluctantly, I was obliged to forego saying adieu to the few friends I possess here, as they lived at some distance, and went instead to the market to buy some birds.

Though delighted at the thoughts of being so soon en route for home, I could not, without mixed feelings, look round on the city for the last time. Fortunately the day was dull-heavy clouds covered the mountains, the bay was a dirty green, and everything appeared dusky and dark so that I had not the additional sorrow of seeing the lovely scenery in its most attractive light. But why should I linger, and prolong the agony? A steam launch came for us soon after three; we stowed our voluminous luggage on board, and in company with Senhores Dantas and Freitas, who have proved very kind friends, and Mr. Bithell, we stepped off the quay, and were once more, after thirteen months in Brazil, on the water. Adieu, fair Rio! I have passed many pleasant hours in your beautiful city. Shall I ever again set foot on your shores?

Additional Notes on Rio de Janeiro.

During the two months I spent at Rio, being daily engaged at the office from ten to five, with the exception of Saturday after two, and Sundays, and the last few days, I was unable to visit a hundredth part of the places I wished to explore, therefore cannot from personal knowledge give any more detailed account of the city and its environs, though I must briefly refer to the tramways and one or two other points which came under my notice. But, first, as it may be of interest, I will give a short account of its origin.

Foundation of the City.*

The French Huguenot, Nicholas Durand Villegagnon, Knight of Malta, and Vice-Admiral of Brittany, who was already celebrated for his exploits, desiring to propagate Calvinism in the New World, conceived the idea of founding Condensed from "Guia do Viajante."