bestowed by the learned, a prevailing party in those days, and may simply have been equivalent to ‘a place of many ruins ;' but its first name, or rather its very ancient name, was, it is almost certain, Cetobriga, or some variation of that name. Resende, the Camden of Portugal, and the predecessor of our great English antiquary by a generation, is, to my knowledge, the first writer who has noticed these ruins. He describes the discovery at Troia of a statue, Roman inscriptions in abundance, and the ruins of a temple of Jupiter Ammon. Subsequent Portuguese archæologists-there was no lack of antiquarian industry in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries-discovered more remains, and discoursed at still greater length than Resende, the father of them all in Portugal. Then came the abeyance of all intellectual movement in this and some other countries. There came to be a time when there were no antiquaries, even in Portugal. While some of us woke out of our sleep through the eighteenth century, Portugal slept on, and misgoverned herself, and was a perfect Gallio of a country in every respect. She woke up, however, to most excellent purpose with the first strokes of the new century, to astonish the world with her capacity for loyalty, for patriotism, and for hard fighting, but thereafter turned to sleep again for a while, and forgot, amid more important matters, all about Troia and its ruins.

I do not know that anybody would have thought again about them, but that it happened that, in the autumn of the very year in which the last French soldier had been driven from the Peninsula-in 1814, that is there came a most portentous storm of rain. The rivers which feed the estuary which washes Troia and Setubal were swollen beyond what had ever been.

known, and the floods carried away great lumps of the sand of the shore at Troia, and then again the ruins were visible, and many curious things were found-the skeleton of a man, a great leaden casket containing objects of silver, a patera, a candelabrum, all of silver; and these objects were pronounced by the learned who saw them, and theorized upon them (as is and ever will be the way of the learned), to be Phoenician. It was not till 1850, however, that the archæologists bestirred themselves in the matter. Then, under the patronage of the Duke of Palmella of that day-the Dukes of Palmella are great people at Setubal, and have land and a great palace in the neighbourhood—a society was formed with a long name (so long, that I forget it) to explore the ruins of Troia; and subscriptions were raised, and the Duke headed the list; subscribing, no doubt, more in energy and learning than in paltry money, for I find that the whole funds of the society amounted to the very non-magnificent sum of 2531.

The society was considerably more successful than the parsimony of its members deserved, for they found a great deal. Probably the ruins lay very thick. They began to dig on the 1st of May, 1850, stopped on the second day of June, on account first of heat, then of rain, began again in the autumn of the same year, and exhausted their funds and their patience in the following March. They uncovered a very perfect and very beautiful Roman house of considerable size; they found all that might be expected to be found in Roman ruins-columns of coloured marble, Saguntine vases, lachrymatories and cinerary urns of glass, bronze and earthenware lamps, amphora, mosaic pavements, styla of bone, and so forth-all pointing to a period of later

Roman domination. Of coins great numbers were found, none Phoenician-had they existed, they would probably have lain at a lower level; but Roman coins of bronze to the number of about sixteen hundred. Trajan and Antoninus Pius were represented by one or two coins of each only, two only were found of Julian the Apostate, seventeen of Constantius Gallus, or of Constantius, three hundred and forty-one of Gratian, who died A.D. 383, a hundred and eighty-five of Maximus, who overthrew and succeeded him, and was, five years later, overthrown by Theodosius the Great. Of Theodosius himself no fewer than four hundred and eighteen coins were found in the few months of exploration; of coins of his two sons, Arcadius, first Emperor of the East, and of the stupid Honorius, Emperor of the West, who reigned twenty-eight years and died in 423, the numbers dwindle, only two hundred coins having been found of each of them, and these are the last emperors whose coins were found in Troia.

With all these facts before him, the antiquaryindeed, a plainer man than an antiquary-may conclude with some agreeable degree of certainty that Cetobriga as a Roman town flourished chiefly between A.D. 300 and 400, and that its decadence began soon after the appearance in the Peninsula of the Visigothic invaders in about 411, under their King Athaulf, brother-in-law to the Emperor Honorius. Perhaps Cetobriga did not cease to be an inhabited place till the time of Euric, late in the same century, when nearly the whole of modern Spain and Portugal fell into the hands of the Visigoths. I have not heard of a single Gothic coin being found, and certainly these barbarians were not people to care for a luxurious villeggiatura in the soft

air and amid the perfumed groves of this lovely Lusitanian Baiæ.

Arrived at Setubal, I bargained with two boatmen to take me across to Troia, intending to spend the day there. Returning to the inn, I found a welldressed and courteous Portuguese gentleman reading, with the help of his eyeglass, the name on my portmanteau. Having acquainted himself with my name, he did me the honour of addressing me in the French tongue, and lost no time in giving me much useful information. Setubal was a fairly civilized place, he said; the streets were clean, and the authorities, on the whole, enlightened; the sea-bathing was not at all bad, the sands smooth and firm, and the water as salt nearly as the ocean itself. As for Troia, which I informed him I was about to visit, he did not think much of it. He smiled contemptuously as he told me the story of the French company who had-as is well known to archeologists-recently purchased the whole sandy promontory, for the sake of the finds to be made there. Much good might it do them,' was my acquaintance's ironical remark; a foolish set of fellows, spending good money on a barren sandbank.' He had never taken the trouble to cross the water to see Troia; it was four miles away, and it was quite a useless trouble, for the place was visible from the inn windows. He would show it to me.

6

He did so, pointing out a break in the opposite coast-line, which seemed to rise abruptly from the sea to the height of from thirty to fifty feet. The break or gap was where a little river ran in, and to our left of that was a large roofless building. That was the ruined shrine of Our Lady of Troia: beyond it, a

was,

hundred yards to our left, close to the water, I could make out the indistinct outlines of a building; that he told me, a house excavated forty years ago by the antiquaries; it was Roman-at least so they persuaded themselves; he had never had any curiosity to see more of it than he could see from this side.

This philosophic contempt for the ancient Romans, who are so bound up with the history of the town, and the very moderate praise accorded by my new acquaintance to Setubal itself, led me to apprehend that he was not a native of the place. It turned out that he was not, but had been living for some six years, as he informed me, at the famous town of X-.