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XLVIII. Here the red cross, for still the cross is here,
Monastic Zitza ! from thy shady brow, Though sadly scoff”d at by the circumcised,
Thou small, but favor'd spot of holy ground ! Forgets that pride to pamper'd priesthood dear; Where'er we gaze, around, above, below, Churchman and votary alike despised.
What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found ! Foul Superstition ! howsoe'er disguised,
Rock, river, forest, mountain, all abound, Idol, saint, virgin, prophet, crescent, cross,
And bluest skies that harmonize the whole : For whatever symbol thou art prized,
Beneath, the distant torrent's rushing sound Thou sacerdotal gain, but general loss!
Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll Who from true worship's gold can separate thy dross ? | Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet pleaso
the soul. XLV. Ambracia's gulf behold, where once was lost
XLIX. A world for woman, lovely, harmless thing!
Amidst the grove that crowns yon tufted hill, In yonder rippling bay, their naval host
Which, were it not for many a mountain nigh Did many a Roman chief and Asian king'
Rising in lofty ranks, and loftier still, To doubtful conflict, certain slaughter bring :
Might well itself be deem'd of dignity, Look where the second Cæsar's trophies rose !? The convent's white walls glisten fair on high : Now, like the hands that rear'd them, withering ; Here dwells the caloyer, nor rude is he, Imperial anarchs, doubling human woes !
Nor niggard of his cheer; the passer by God? Kas thy globe ordain'd for such to win and lose ? Is welcome still; nor heedless will he flee
From hence, if he delight kind Nature's sheen to see. XLVI. From the dark barriers of that rugged clime,
L. Es'n to the centre of Illyria's vales,
Here in the sultriest season let him rest, Childe Harold pass'd o'er many a mount sublime, Fresh is the green beneath those aged trees; Through lands scarce noticed iu historic tales ; Here winds of gentlest wing will fan his breast, Yet in famed Attica such lovely dales
From heaven itself he may inhale the breeze : Are rarely seen; nor can fair Tempe boast
The plain is far beneath-oh! let him seize A charm they know not ; loved Parnassus fails, Pure pleasure while he can; the scorching ray Though clasic ground and consecrated most,
Here pierceth not, impregnate with disease : To match some spots that lurk within this lowering Then let his length the loitering pilgrim lay, Coast.
And gaze, untired, the morn, the noon, the eve away. XLVII.
LI. He pass'd bleak Pindus, Acherusia's lake,"
Dusky and huge, enlarging on the sight, And left the primal city of the land,
Nature's volcanic amphitheatre, And onwards did his further journey take
Chiinæra's alps extend from left to right: To greet Albania's chief," whose dread command Beneath, a living valley seems to stir ;
[fir Islases law ; for with a bloody hand
Flocks play, trees wave, streams flow, the mountainHe sways a nation, turbulent and bold :
Nodding above ; behold black Acheron!" Yet here and there some daring mountain-band Once consecrated to the sepulchre. Disdain his power, and from their rocky hold
Pluto! if this be hell I look upon, Hori their defiance far, nor yield, unless to gold.” Close shamed Elysium's gates, my shade shall seck for
It is said, that, on the day previous to the battle of from Joannina, or Yanina, the capital of the Pachalick. In Amium. Antony had thirteen kings at his levee.-(" To the valley the river Kalamas (once the Acheron) flows, and, dar," (Nar. 12.) "* I saw the remains of the town of Actium, not far from Zitza, forms a fue cataract. The situation is
war auch Antony lost the world, in a small bay, where perhaps the finest in Greece, though the approach to Del!!frigates could hardly maneuvre: a broken wall is the vinachi and parts of Acarnania and Etolia inay contest the + sole renant. On another part of the gulf stand the ruins palm. Delphi, Parnassus, and, in Attica, even Cape Colon
Sropolis, built by Augustus, in honor of his victory.” na and Pori Raphti, are very inferior; as also every scene Led Ryron in his Mother, 1809.)
in Ionia, or the Troad: I am almost inclined to add the ap* Nicopolis, whose ruins are most extensive, is at some proach to Constantinople ; but, from the different features sance from icuium, where the wall of the Hippodrome of the last, a comparison can hardly be made. "Zitza,” erries in a few fragments. These ruins are large masses says the poet's companion, " is a village inhabited by Greek of brickwork, the bricks of which are joined by interstices peasants. Perhaps there is not in the world a more romantic of Durlar, as large as the bricks themselves, and equally prospect than that which is viewed from the summit of the dorable.
hill.' The foreground is a gentle declivity, terminating on 3 According to Pouqueville, the lake of Yanina : but Pou every side in an extensive landscape of green hills and dale, querie is always out.
enriched with vineyards, and dotted with frequent flocks.") + The celebrated Ali Pacha. Or this extraordinary man · The Greek monks are so called.--(“We went into the Sere is an incorrect account in Pouqueville's Travels.-" I monastery,” says Mr. Hobhouse, “ after some parley with lef Mata in th- Spider brig-of-war, on the 21st of Septem one of the monks, through a small door plated with iron, on Det. ani arrived in eight days at Prevesa. I thence have which the marks of violence were very apparent, and which, tressersed the interior of the province of Albania, on a visit before the country had been tranquillized under the powerto the Pahm, as far as Tepaleen, his highness's country ful government of Ali, had been battered in vain by the pauce, were I stayed three days. The name of the Pacha troops of robbers then, by turns, infesting every district.
!!, and he is considered a man of the first abilities : he The prior, an humble, meek-mannered man, entertained us averas ibe whole of Albania, (the ancient niyricum,) in a warm chamber with grapes, and a pleasant white wine, Eprus, and part of Macedonia."-B. to his Mother.)
not trodden out, as he told us, by the feet, but pressed from • Fire thousand Suliotes, among the rocks and in the the grape by the hand ; and we were so well pleased with castle of Suli, withstood thirty Thousand Albanians for every thing about us, that we agreed to lodge with him on Eighteen years, he castle at last was taken by bribery. In our return from the Vizier.") the couest there were several acts performed not un * The Chimariot inountains appear to have been volcanic. Forbyf he better days of Greece.
9 Now called Kalamas. !1d.convent and village of Zitza are four hours' journey 10 (“Keep heaven for better souls, my shade," &c.-MS.)
1 Albanese cloak.
groups, in an immense large open gallery in front of the 9 Anciently Mount Tomarus.
palace, the latter placed in a kind of cloister below it ; two
hundred steeds ready caparisoned to move in a moment, 9 The river Laos was full at the time the author passed
couriers entering or passing out with dispatches; the kettle. it ; and, immediately above Tepaleen, was to the eye as
drums beating; boys calling the hour from the minaret of wide as the Thames at Westminster; at least in the opinion
the mosque ;-altogether, with the singular appearance of of the author and his fellow-traveller. In the summer it
the building itself, formed a new and delighuiul spectacle must be much narrower. It certainly is the finest river in
to a stranger.
I was conducied to a very handsome apartthe Levant ; neither Achelous, Alpheus. Acheron, Scaman ment, and my health inquired after by the vizier's secretary, der, nor Cayster, approached it in breadth yr beauty.
* à la mode Turque.'"-B. Letters.) * (** Ali Pacha, hearing that an Englishman of rank was in 5 [" On our arrival at Tepaleen, we were lodged in the his dominious, left orders, in Yanina, with the commandant, palace. During the night, we were disturbed by the perto provide a house, and supply me with every kind of neces petual carousal which seemed to be kept up in the gallery, sary gratis. I rode out on the vizier's horses, and saw the and by the drum, and the voice of the Muezzin,' or chanter, palaces of himself and grandsons. I shall never forget the calling the Turks to prayers from the minaret or the musck singular scene on entering 'Tepaleen, at fire in the afternoon, attached to the palace. The chanter was a boy, and he sang (Oct. 11,) as the sun was going down, It brought to my mind out his hymn in a sort of loud melancholy recitative. He (with some change of dress, however) Scott's description of was a long time repeating the purport of these few words: Branksome Castle in his Lay, and the feudal system. The • God most high! I bear witness, that there is no god but Albanians in their dresses ; (the most magnificent in the Gol, and Mahomet is his prophet: come to prayer ; come world, consisting of a long white kilt, gold-worked cloak, to the asylum of salvation; great God! there is no god but crimson velvet gold-laced jacket and waistcoat, silver God!'"-HOBHOUSE.) mounted pistols and daggers :) the Tartars, with their high 6 (“We were a little unfortunate in the time we chose for caps; the Turks in their vast pelisses and turbans ; the travelling, for it was during the Ramazan, or Turkish Lent, soldiers and black slaves with the horses, the former in which fell this year in October, and was hailed at the rising
LXV. Here woman's voice is never heard : apart,
Fierce are Albania's children, yet they lack And scarce permitted, guarded, veil'd, to move, Not virtues, were those virtues more mature. | She vields to one her person and her heart,
Where is the foe that ever saw their back? Tamed to her cage, nor feels a wish to rove :
Who can so well the toil of war endure? For, not unhappy in her master's love,
Their native fastnesses not more secure And jorful in a mother's gentlest cares,
Than they in doubtful time of troublous need : Biest cares! all other feelings far above !
Their wrath how deadly! but their friendship sure, Herself more sweetly rears the babe she bears, When Gratitude or Valor bids them bleed, Who never quits the breast, no meaner passion shares. Unshaken rushing on where'er their chief may lead. LXII.
LXVI. In marble-paved pavilion, where a spring
Childe Harold saw them in their chieftain's tower, Of living water from the centre rose,
Thronging to war in splendor and success; Whose bubbling did a genial freshness fling,
And after view'd them, when, within their power, And soft voluptuous couches breathed repose,
Himself awhile the victim of distress; Au reclined, a man of war and woes ::
That saddening hour when bad men hotlier press : Yet in his lineaments ye cannot trace,
But these did shelter him beneath their roof, While Gentleness her milder radiance throws
When less barbarians would have cheer'd him less, Along that aged venerable face,
And fellow-countrymen have stood aloofs — | The deeds that lurk beneath, and stain him with In aught that tries the heart how few withstand the disgrace.
LXVII. It is not that yon hoary lengthening beard
It chanced that adverse winds once drove his bark Ill suits the passions which belong to youth:?
Full on the coast of Suli's shaggy shore, Lore conquers age-s0 Hafiz hath averrd,
When all around was desolate and dark ; So sags the Teian, and he sings in sooth
To land was perilous, to sojourn more ; But crimes that scorn the tender voice of ruth, Yet for awhile the mariners forbore, Beseeming all men ill, but most the man
Dubious to trust where treachery might lurk : In years, have mark'd him with a tiger's tooth: At length they ventured forth, though doubting sore
Blood follows blood, and, through their mortal span, That those who loathe alike the Frank and Turk In bloodier acts conclude those who with blood began. Might once again renew their ancient butcher-work.
Of Wealth and Wantonness, the choice retreat i Oi sated Grandeur from the city's noise :
And were it humbler it in sooth were sweet;
But Peace abhorreth artificial joys, | And Pleasure, leagued with Pomp, the zest of both
To rest the weary and to sooth the sad,
etterex moon, on the evening of the eth, by every demon to the fire of a stove, burning fiercely under a smooth and Sas of joy: but although, during this month, the strict polished surface." When the doctor returned from Albania, es astuseice is observed in the daytime, yet with the set in 1813, he brought a letter from the Pacha to Lord Byron. 13 of ibe sun the feastmg commences; then is the tine " It is,” says the poet, " in Latin, and begins · Excellentis. barag and receiving visits, and for the amusements of sime, necnon Carissime,' and ends about a gun he wants Inte, pur pet-shows, jugglers, dancers, and story-tellers.” made for him. He tells me that, last spring, he took a town, - Hotnote]
a hostile town, where, forty-two years ago, his mother and - On the 12b, I was introduced to Ali Pacha. I was sisters were treated as Miss Cunegunde was by the Bulgadressed in a full suit of staff uniform, with a very magniti rian cavalry. He takes the town, selects all the survivors centahre, &c. The vizier received me in a large room of the exploit-children, grand-chuldren, &c., to the tune of pared with marble ; a fountain was playing in the centre ; six hundred, and has them shot before his face. So much tkt apartment was surrounded by scarlet ottomans. He re for · dearest friend.'"] Perel me standing, a wonderful compliment from a Mus 3 [The fate of Ali was precisely such as the poet antici. Welcan, and male me sit down on his right hand. His first pated. For a circumstantial account of his assassination, question was, why, at so early an age, I left my country? in February, 1622, see Walsh's Journey. His he was sent He then sard. the English minister, Captain Leake, had to Constantinople, and exhibited at the gates of the seraclio.
dla I was of a great family, and desired his respects to As the name of Ali had made a considerable noise in Eng. Ef mother, which I now, in the name of Ali Pacha, pre land, in consequence of his negotiations with Sir Thom
He sand he was certain I was a man of birth, Maitland, and still more, perhaps, these stanzas of Lord se I had small ears, curling hair, and little white Byron, a merchant of Constantnople thought it would be bard. He told me to consider him as a father whilst I was no bad speculation to purchase the head ani conge it to a E TUrey, and said he looked on me as his own son. In London Showman ; but this scheme was defeated by the vezi. be treated me like a child, sending me alınonds and piety of an old servant of the Pacha, who brited the execu gre! startet, fruit, and sweetmeats, twenty tunes a day. tioner with a higher price, and beswned deceni nepuilure 14529, after coffee and pipes, retired."-B. to his Jother.] on the relic.) 1'-- Delights to mingle with the lip of youth."--MS.) * (** Childe Harold with the chief held colimu,
\r. Bubbouse describes the vizier as a short man, about Yet what they spake it boot: WwWat Ite ftet se incbes in height, and very fat; possessing a
Converse may little charmirarge par ur eve, Te peasing face, fair and round, with blue quick eyes, not
Albeit he rested on that specus veat talished into a Turkish gravity." Dr. Holland happily of Mosiem luxury," k.-M.. pompares the spirit which lurked under Ali's usual exterior, * Alluding to the wreckers of Coruvall
2. It came to pass, that when he did address
Oh! who is more brave than a dark Suliote, Himself to quit at length this mountain-land, In his snowy camese and his shaggy capote ? Combined marauders half-way barr'd egress, To the wolf and the vulture he leaves his wild flock, And wasted far and near with glaive and brand; And descends to the plain like the stream from the rock. And therefore did he take a trusty band
3. To traverso Acarnania's forest wide,
Shall the sons of Chimari, who never forgive In war well season'd, and with labors tann'd,
The fault of a friend, bid an enemy live? Till he did greet white Achelous' tide,
Let those guns so unerring such vengeance forego? And from his further bank Ætolia's wolds espied. What mark is so fair as the breast of a foe? LXX.
4. Where lone Utraikey forms its circling cove,
Macedonia sends forth her invincible race; And weary waves retire to gleam at rest,
For a time they abandon the cave and the chase : How brown the foliage of the green hill's grove,
But those scarfs of blood-red shall be redder, before Nodding at midnight o'er the calm bay's breast, The sabre is sheath'd and the battle is o'er. As winds come whispering lightly from the west,
5. Kissing, not ruffling, the blue deep's serene : Then the pirates of Parga that dwell by the waves, Here Harold was received a welcome guest; And teach the pale Franks what it is to be slaves,
Nor did he pass unmoved the gentle scene, (glean. Shall leave on the beach the long galley and oar, For many a joy could he from Night's soft presence And track to his covert the captive on shore. LXXI.
Shall win the young bride with her long flowing hair,
7. The native revels of the troop began;
I love the fair face of the maid in her youth, Each Palikar» his sabre from him cast,
Her caresses shall lull me, her music shall sooth; And bounding hand in hand, man link'd to man, Let her bring from her chamber the many-toned lyre, Yelling their uncouth dirgo, long daunced tho kirtled And sing us a song on the fall of her sire. clan.
Remember the moment when Previsa fell," Childe Harold at a little distance stood,
The shrieks of the conquer'd, the conquerors' yell ; And view'd, but not displeased, the revelry, The roofs that we fired, and the plunder we shared, Nor hated harmless mirth, however rude :
The wealthy we slaughter'd, the lovely we spared. In sooth, it was no vulgar sight to see Their barbarous, yet their not indecent, gleo;
9. And, as the flamos along their faces gleam'd, I talk not of mercy, I talk not of fear; Their gestures nimble, dark eyes flashing free,
Ile neither must know who would serve the Vizier: The long wild locks that to their girdles stream'd,
Since the days of our prophet the Crescent ne'er saw While thus in concert they this lay half sang, half A chief ever glorious like Ali Pashaw. scream'd : _
Dark Muchtar his son to the Danube is sped, TAMBOURGI! Tambourgi !s thy larum afar
Let the yellow-hair'do Giaours® view his horse-tail Gives hope to the valiant, and promise of war;
(banks, All the sons of the mountains arise at the note, When his Delhis" come dashing in blood o'er the Chimariot, Illyrian, and dark Suliote!
How few shall escape from the Muscovite ranks!
i The Albanian Mussulmans do not abstain from wine, whirled round, as the chorus was again repeated. The and, indeed, very few of the others.
rippling of the waves upon the pebbly margin where we 2 Palikar, shortened when addressed to a single person were seated, filled up the pauses of the song with a milder, from Malikapi, a general name for a soldier amongst the and not more monotonous music. The night was very Greeks and Albanese who speak Romaic: it means, proper
dark ; but, by the flashes of the fires, we caught a glimpse ly, "1 lad."
of the woods, the rocks, and the lake, which, together with ** (The following is Mr. Hobhouse's animated description the wild appearance of the dancers, presented us with a of this scene :-"In the evening the gates were secured, scene that would have made a fine picture in ihe hands of and preparations were made for feeding our Albanians. A such an artist as the author of the Mysteries of Udolpho. goat was killed and roasted whole, and four fires were kin As we were acquainted with the character of the Albanians, dled in the yard, round which the soldiers seated them
it did not at all diminish our pleasure to know, that every selves in parties. After eating and drinking, the greatest one of our guard had been robbers, and some of them a part of them assembled round the largest of the fires, and, very short time before. It was eleven o'clock before we whilst ourselves and the elders of the party were seated on
had retired to our room, at which time the Albanians, wrapthe ground, danced round the blaze, to their own songs, ping themselves up in their capotes, went to sleep round with astonishing energy. All their songs were relations of ihe fires.") some robbing exploits. One of them, which detained them * [For a specimen of the Albanian or Arnaout dialect of more than an hour, began thus:-- When we set out from the Illyric, see Appendix to this Canto, Note (C.)] Parga, there were sixty of us :' then came the burden of
5 Drummer. the verse,
6 These stanzas are partly taken from different Albanese * Robbers all at Parga!
songs, as far as I was able to make them out by the exposiRobbers all at Parga !
tion of the Albanese in Romaic and Italian. • κλεφτεις ποτε Παργα!
? It was taken by storm from the French. Κλεφτεις ποτε Παργα !'
* Yellow is the epithet given to the Russians.
9 Infidel. and as they roared out this stave, they whirled round the 10 The insignia of a Pacha. fire, dropped, and rebounded from their knees, and again 11 Horsemen, answering to our forlorn hope.
LXXVII. Seletar!' unsheath then our chief's scimitar:
The city won for Allah from the Giaour, Tambourgi! thy larum gives promise of war.
The Giaour from Othman's race again may wrest; Ye mountains, that see us descend to the shore,
And the Serai's impenetrable tower
Receive the fiery Frank, her former guest ;-
The prophet'ga tomb of all its pious spoil,
May wind their path of blood along the West; Fair Greece! sad relic of departed worth!?
But ne'er will freedom seek this fated soil, Immortal, thongh no more ; though fallen, great! But slave succeed to slave through years of endless toil. Who now shall lead thy scatter'd children forth, And long accustom'd bondage uncreate?
LXXVIII. Not such thy sons who whilome did await,
Yet mark their mirth-ere lenten days begin, The hopeless warriors of a willing doom,
That penance which their holy rites prepare In bleak Thermopylæ’s sepulchral strait
To shrive from man his weight of mortal sin, Oh! who that gallant spirit shall resume,
By daily abstinence and nightly prayer ;
But ere his sackcloth garb Repentance wear,
To take of pleasaunce each his secret share,
In motley robe to dance at masking ball,
LXXIX. Couldst thou forbode the dismal hour which now
And whose more rife with merriment than thine, Dims the green beauties of thine Attic plain? Nor thirty tyrants now enforce the chain,
Oh Stamboul ! once the empress of their reign ? But every carle can lord it o'er thy land;
Though turbans now pollute Sophia's shrine, Nor rise thy sons, but idly rail in vain,
And Greece her very altars eyes in vain : Trembling beneath the scourge of Turkish hand,
(Alas! her wocs will still pervade my strain !) From birth till death enslaved; in word, in deed,
Gay were her minstrels once, for free her throng, uninann'd
All felt the common joy they now must feign,
Nor oft I've seen such sight, nor heard such song, LXXV.
As woo'd the eye, and thrill’d the Bosphorus along.' la all sare for alone, how changed! and who
LXXX. That marks the fire still sparkling in each eye, Loud was the lightsome tumult on the shore, Who but would deem their bosoms burnd anew
Oft Music changed, but never ceased her tone, With thy unquenched beam, lost Liberty!
And timely echo'd back the measured oar, And many dream withal the hour is nigh
And rippling waters made a pleasant moan: That gives them back their fathers' heritage:
The Queen of tides on high consenting shone, For foreign arms and aid they fondly sigh,
And when a transient breeze swept o'er the wave, Nor solely dare encounter hostile rage, (page. 'Twas, as if darting from her heavenly throne, 01 tear their namo defiled from Slavery's mournful A brighter glance her form reflected gave, slave.
Till sparkling billows secm'd to light the banks they LXXVI.
LXXXI. Hereditary bondsmen! know ye not
Glanced many a light caique along the foam, Who would be free themselves must strike the blow? Danced on the shore the daughters of the land, By their right arms the conquest must be wrought? Ne thought had man or maid of rest or home, Will Ganl or Muscovite redress ye? no!
While many a languid eye and thrilling hand True, they may lay your proud despoilers low, Exchanged the look few bosoms may withstand, But not for you will Freedom's altars flame.
Or gently press'd, return'd the pressure still : Shades of the Helots! triumph o'er your foe! Oh Love! young Love! bound in thy rosy band,
Greece! change thy lords, thy state is still the same; Let sage or cynic prattle as he will,
direction in perfect silence, amid sea-fowl, who sat at rest Se suine Thoughts on the present State of Greece and upon the waters, altogether conveyed such an impression Turher in the Appendix to this Canto, Notes (D) and (E.) as I had never received, and probably never shall again re
: Pare, wbich commands a beautiful view of Athens, has ceive, from the view of any other place." The following stil cosiderable remains; It was seized by Thrasybulus, sonnet, by the same author, has been so often quoted, that, perion so the expulsion of the Thirty.
but for its exquisite beauty, we should not have ventured to 1
ten taken by the Latins, and retained for several years. reprint it here:? Yeoca and Medina were taken some time ago by the *** A glorious form thy shining city wore, · Wasses, a sect yearly increasing.
Mid cypress thickets of perennial green, of Constantinople Lord Byron says,—" I have seen the With iminaret and golden dome between, ris of Athens, of Ephesus, and Delphi ; I have traversed While thy sea softly kiss'dits grassy shore: Et part of Turkey, and many other parts of Europe, and Darting across whose blue expanse was seen We of Asia: but I never beheld a work of nature or art Of sculptured barques and galleys many a score ; abit yielded an impression like the prospect on each side, Whence noise was none save that of plastung oar; Erstbe seven Towers to the end of the Golden Horn.") Nor word was spoke, to break the calm serene. 7- The new of Constantinople," says Mr. Rose, “which Unbeard is whisher'd boatman's hail or joke ; Feueu intersected by groves of cypress, (for such is the Who, mute as Sinbad's man of copper, rows, Cuct of its great burial-grounds planted with these trees,) And only intermits the sturdy stroke, As guided comes and minarets rerlecting the first rays of the When fearless gull too nigh his pinnace goes. fia, the deep blue sea • in which it glassed itself,' and that I, hardly conscious if I dream or woke, * cutered with beautiul boats and barges darting in every Mark'd that strange piece of action and repose.")