with garnet, which was very likely a result of rolling the belt before the glue was thoroughly dry, and the glue adhered to the under side of the belt, hence taking some of the garnet with it. I suggested this to the sandpaper manufacurer, and returned the entire shipment.

When you receive your sandpaper, place in a stockroom where the temperature is about 65 or 70 degrees, and two or three days before using, a sufficient quantity should be cut off and put in a dry place, where the temperature is about 80 degrees. The results obtained will depend entirely upon the operator of the machine, the machine, and the conditions of the stock sanded. Of course, judgment has to be exercised in the selection of the material, whether paper, cloth paper, or cloth; also whether flint, garnet or other abrasive is to be used, this being determined by the stock to be sanded.

Keep in Touch With Sandpaper Maker

If furniture manufacturers would inform the sandpaper manufacturers on these points, they would secure better results and save themselves considerable trouble and expense. Our neighbor is a sandpaper salesmana man who understands the business from A to Z. He is traveling for one of the oldest and largest concerns in the business. This friend of mine said to me a few days ago: "A great many times complaints are made on sandpaper when the fault lies entirely with the operator, either in the selection of the grades of sandpaper, or in the way the machines are set up."

It is not uncommon when visiting furniture factories to find cloth belts running over leather forms and the belts taken up just as far as possible without breaking, the tension being so great that it has a tendency to separate the bond that holds the mineral. Better results could be obtained by the use of a felt-covered wheel formed to shape desired and traveling at the same speed. On drum sanders a great amount of trouble occurs in putting on the paper, especially the coarse numbers, owing to the paper cracking. This can be easily overcome by a sander taking a paper and rolling the edge to be turned in, over a three-inch round iron bar. This makes the paper flexible and will obviate the difficulty. Flint Paper vs. Garnet

The question has at various times been asked, and I will endeavor to herein answer it: "How is flint paper as compared with garnet?" Flint paper, Mr. Reader, is adapted for use on soft woods or stocks full of gum, etc., while hard garnet is adapted for sanding hard stock.

I have never seen anything in print in any of the trade papers or otherwise regarding most efficient uses of sandpapers, and this information may prove of interest to the readers. In any event, if applied, will cut down your sandpaper bills and eliminate the trouble you may now be experiencing in your sanding department.

There are several very good three-drum sanders on the market. What features are of prime importance in a three-drum sander for furniture factory work? I am not a manufacturer of sanding machines, but I would answer this question saying that there are three: first, the accessibility of the sanding drums, which I consider very important and I believe superintendents will agree with me; second, the construction of the sanding drums themselves, their ability to carry the paper perfectly tight, etc.; third, the oscillating device, or mechanism, which causes the drums to forward and back across the machine as the work is passed over them—this to prevent scratches or otherwise marring marks.

I also favor a sanding machine on which the rate of feed can be changed instantly, adapting it to the finish you require on the stock you are running. In our line of work we have unexposed parts which do not require to be as finely finished as the exterior surfaces, and they

can be sanded at the fastest rate of feed. Again, wood of different textures may be sanded at different rates of feed and the same finish secured.

No matter what make of machine you are employing, it requires a good operator to get results. The three-drum sander is usually expected to turn out high-grade work and in return receives about enough thought and care to just keep it running. Again, the three-drum sander is expected to do the work of the planer.

In the alignment of feed and pressure rolls, many of the difficulties depend. A firm grasp of the pressure roll, thereby stopping the rotation, is enough pressure on the top chain of rolls for good work. So very few operators pay any attention to these facts. Remember that the sander is not designed to cut stock to size, but to produce a straight and polished surface. When you find that the stock is so uneven as to require an extraordinary cut, it is better to run it through twice. The principal cutting should be done by the first cylinder; the cut of second cylinder is for the purpose of taking out scratches left by the coarse paper of the first, whereas the last cylinder is only intended to polish the surface and should therefore not do much cutting, but fill the office of buffer or polisher.

Bed Plates Must be Uniform

It is almost unnecessary to state that the bed plates should be of uniform height. One, however, quite frequently finds operators who do not seem to know this or do not seem to know where to look for their sander troubles and to correct them. In our sanding department we use straightedges long enough to reach the full distance from feeding-in end to feeding-out end of the machine. As the feed rolls are higher than the beds, it is necessary to work at the ends of beds, as there is usually room enough between the hoisting screws and the ends of the feed rolls to use the straightedge. Knowing that the bedplates are as they should be, the feed rolls should next be adjusted. For this we use the same straightedge, setting the two outside rolls first. We test our drums by means of a short straightedge about 8 or 9 inches long. In case one end of cylinder should become lower than the other, it is only necessary to turn the screw which one will find on bottom of cylinder shanks, on most machines on right-hand side of machine. Turning the screw to the right will raise, turning to the left will lower the corresponding end of first and second cylinder; for third cylinder the movement is the opposite.

Your sander should be set level, and as the great weight of the same will cause the floor to settle, it should be re-leveled from time to time until the floor timbers become accustomed to the weight.

I have been asked a number of times: How fast should we run our three-drum sander? My experience has been that the countershaft on a three-drum sander should run from 500 to 575 revolutions per minute, depending, however, upon the make of machine, size of pulleys, etc. In the February, 1913, number of THE FURNITURE MANUFACTURER AND ARTISAN, I discussed the merits of the endless bed, as well as three-drum sanders. Where large surfaces are to be sanded, it is better to use a roll-feed sander. As already suggested in my articles, the ideal sander equipment, where a plant has sufficient work for two sanders, is the combination of a good roll-feed sander with the endless bed. We all know that the endless bed sander is ideal in sanding small pieces. The endless bed sander has no advantage over the roll machine when sanding large pieces.

Belt sanding machines are the latest mechanical sanders placed on the market. Modern belt sanders are a type of machine, the possibilities of which today are barely understood. You will find that the average oper

ator thinks he knows all about them. To watch an expert work on one is certainly interesting.

Regardless of the fact that there are a number of very good belt sanding machines on the market, it is surprising to see the number of cabinet-makers still doing hand sanding as they did fifty years ago. I see this time and again. If manufacturers would only investigate, they would soon adopt the latest ways of doing this sanding.

The spiral belt sander is also a very ingenious device. In practice this machine has been found to take the place of from eight to ten men sanding by hand and, manufacturers tell me, that on special classes of work even higher efficiency has been shown, one concern reporting that their machine paid for itself on a single job of veneered doors which were placed in the Hotel Statler, of Cleveland.

The Automatic Spindle Sander

The automatic spindle sander is ideal in all that the name implies. I do not see how any chair manufacturer can get along without this machine. Perfect sanding of chair stock, or turnings of a similar character, can be sanded at the rate of 7,000 pieces per day of ten hours, doing very good work. One admirable feature of this machine is that all turnings are reached, all sharp members and all shapes of turnings are preserved perfectly. I have investigated the merits of this machine at some of the very largest chair factories in this country. Time and space do not permit the good things the manufacturers had to say about this machine. Mr. Miller, of the Hagerstown Table Works, Hagerstown, Md., claims that they are sanding six six-inch legs per minute, and better work than can be done by hand, with a saving of at least 50 per cent. in sandpaper. James Murphy, of the Murphy Chair Co., stated: "We would never go back to the old way of sanding."

The trouble with most furniture manufacturers is that they are too conservative. They hesitate a long time before introducing new methods or installing new machinery in their plants. Have stated this time and again in my articles.

Most of you remember the old story told time and again about Simmons' pin. For the benefit of the reader who has not heard this story, I will endeavor to relate it as briefly as possible:

One day Simmons saw a pin and remembered the old adage "See a pin, pick it up, and all the day you'll have good luck." He stooped to get the pin; his hat tumbled off and rolled into the gutter; his eye glasses fell on the pavement and broke; his suspenders gave way behind; he burst the buttonhole on the back of his shirt and nearly lost his new false teeth. But he got the pin.

False Economy

Some furniture manufacturers remind me of Simmons. Many think they are economizing by not spending money for new machinery, and they have no time for later-day methods. These people find their economy about as profitable as Simmons' lucky (?) pin.

We know that it is almost an anomalous condition that an occasional plant makes money in spite of the fact that its machinery is far from modern, and its cost of manufacturing is necessarily much higher than it would be were the same work done under advanced methods. We have many factories in the United States and Canada enjoying a most splendid reputation for quality. The dealer willingly pays more money for their goods than he would for similar patterns elsewhere. He knows that the manufacturer buys good lumber, properly dries it, employs good, skilled workmen, and the finish is perfect. He also knows that the furniture will come properly crated and that should anything go wrong, the furniture

manufacturer stands ready at all times to make it right. In other words, the dealer is taking no chance and appreciates this. The furniture manufacturer, very likely, has a very good cost system. He manufactures goods at a profit. He will say to you: "I can't go wrong." I ask you, however, Mr. Reader, is it not an absolute fact that the furniture manufacturer would have a much more profitable business if his old equipment were replaced ly the best that manufacturers of modern wood-working machinery have evolved for the various required purposes ? A Tribute to Canadians

Some charges have in times past been preferred against our Canadian friends in the furniture manufacturing business. It has been, for instance, stated time and again that most of them swipe our patterns, and some people have said that the Canadian manufacturer cannot originate anything and is way behind the times. Permit me to state that I just returned from a trip through Canada, where I visited some of the largest factories. The man who says that the present Canadian furniture manufacturer is asleep, does not know what he is talking about. Of course, there are some way behind the times, but we have many in this country equally as far behind. Some of the plants I visited were equipped with the very latest designs of American wood-working machines. Never in all my experience did I receive a more cordial welcome than in some of these plants. I remember a certain plant where the executive heads got me into a corner and kept me busy for over an hour answering questions. Progressive? Indeed yes. Regardless of the fact that a certain manager of one of the large plants was very busy, he dropped his work and showed me the city; also introduced me to many of the prominent men we chanced to meet. The George McLogan Furniture Co., of Stratford. Ontario, does not have to take a back seat as far as machinery equipment is concerned. The Imperial Reed Furniture Co., of the same place, also deserves considerable credit. One does not run across men as broad and liberal minded as H. W. Strudley, the manager, every day. It was my intention to say something about lubrication, but the article is already quite long and I would cheat more able writers than I out of space. I will prepare an article along this line in some future number of THE FURNITURE MANUFACTURER AND ARTISAN,

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Olive Wood of Commerce

HE wood of the olive (Olea europaea), especially the root part, is beautifully clouded and veined, has an agreeable odor, and is susceptible of a high polish, which it retains. It is highly esteemed for these reasons by cabinet-makers, by whom it is fashioned into the finest work. It was of this wood, so hard and lasting and of such fine grain, that the Greeks sculptured their divinities before marble and ivory came into use. It is hard, heavy (about sixty pounds per cubic foot), strong, rather brittle, very close and fine-grained, and works and turns very easily, but splits badly or rather crumbles under the knife. It is light yellowish-brown with irregularly wavy dark lines and mottlings, especially near the root, and often resembles boxwood, but it is not so hard.

The pores, which are evenly distributed throughout, are very small and not visible to the unaided eye. The pith rays are very narrow, and cannot be seen on a radial or transverse surface except under the hand lens. The wood is used chiefly in turnery and carving for small articles, souvenirs, fancy boxes, paper knives, pen holders, etc. The olive wood is imported into Birmingham, England, where it is used so commonly for making mementoes of the Holy Land.

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BRASIVE wheels are among the most essential machines used in the successful operation of woodworking machinery, and as a general thing they are among the most abused pieces of machinery. The term machine is used advisedly, for without making a machine out of it, the abrasive wheel is absolutely useless.

Consider that all the difficult patterns and designs in molding, such as ovals, ogees, quarter rounds, beads, bed and crown, and other styles too numerous to mention, are produced by the abrasive wheel. This evidently has not been given serious thought, for if it had there would be more written on the subject by those more capable of handling the matter than the writer.

There are several ways in which abrasive wheels are abused and ignorance and carelessness are responsible for the most of them. These wheels are now used to a greater or lesser degree by every manufacturer on all kinds of metal of every degree of hardness, also on bone, shell, wood, etc. Naturally, every one wants a wheel just suited for his particular class of work. The reputable manufacturers of these wheels recognized this fact years ago and have spared no pains in making them suitable for every need. They even go so far as to make them up special, if necessary, to fit any condition of work. They also keep records of them for future reference so that if other orders come in for them they may be duplicated without any trouble.

It is a pretty well known fact that the abrasive, whatever it may consist of, is crushed down and sifted to get each grain of a size by itself. Wheels are made of all grades of coarseness, from flour to split peas, each grade in all degrees of hardness, and when taken in connection with all the different diameters and different thicknesses of each diameter, it makes a very great aggregate. Particular pains should be taken when sending in an order for wheels to give full information as to the class of work that they will be required to do.

The centrifugal force of an abrasive wheel in motion is considered "as the square of its velocity." Hence a wheel of any given size is subjected to four times the breaking strain at 2,000 revolutions that it is at 1,000. and at intermediate rates in proportion. It will therefore be readily seen that a comparatively small increase in the number of revolutions adds 100 per cent. to the breaking strain. This fact should be understood and its importance appreciated by all who have the use of abrasive wheels. No man of ordinary intelligence would think for a moment of keeping a steam boiler in constant use at 200 pounds pressure which was warranted at but 100. Yet this would be practically the same as running an abrasive wheel at 1,400 revolutions per minute which was warranted at 1,000. Experience has demonstrated that there is no advantage in running abrasive wheels at a higher rate than 5,500 feet per minute, peripheral speed. It will be noticed that wheels put out by the best manufacturers have a label on them, on which is marked the number of revolutions they should run. This rate is within the limits of safety.

To find the size of the pulley necessary to give the desired speed-multiply the number of revolutions marked on the wheel by the diameter of pulley on the arbor of

the machine in inches. The result will be the rate of speed at which the countershaft should run. Then multiply the speed of the countershaft thus obtained by the diameter of the tight and loose pulley by which it is driven, and divide the result in revolutions per minute by the speed of the shaft from which it is to be belted, and the result will be the diameter of the required pulley in inches.

To find the rate of speed at which a pulley of any given size will drive another pulley of different sizemultiply the speed of the driving pulley in revolutions per minute by its diameter in inches, and divide the product by the diameter of the driven pulley in inches. The result will be the speed of the driving pulley in revolutions per minute.

Here are some reasons why wheels do not give satisfaction and cause trouble throughout their entire use: Not giving full information to the manufacturer when ordering, as to the class of work the wheel is intended to do, as to diameter, size of arbor, shape of face, whether to run wet or dry, speed of machine, etc. The wheel should never be crowded on the arbor, and never mounted without flanges. Some wheels are run with nothing but a nut to hold them, which is liable to crowd, and, when forced into the center, may break the wheel. The machine itself should be on a rigid foundation, strongly bolted, which not only insures safety, but better results are obtained while using the wheels. The boxes should be kept well oiled to insure against heating, thus causing expansion and breaking the wheel. Wheels should be mounted so as to run easily, steadily and true. They should slip on the mandril easily, but not too loosely. Screw the nut just tight enough to prevent slipping. Never grind anything on the side of an abrasive wheel, as it will be impossible to keep the face in the shape it was before. This is a very common practice, which should be stopped, as the wheels will wear much better and longer.

Where there is a variety of wheels used on the machine, to offset the different thicknesses, use collars a little larger in diameter than the washer or flange. These can be turned on a lathe out of any good hardwood. It is advisable that the wheel be kept under lock and key when not in use. A lock suitable for the purpose can easily be attached to the shifter, and when the operator is through grinding he should lock it to keep those away who have no business using it. Wheels cannot be kept in good condition if every one is allowed to grind whatever they wish on them. Who has not seen men go to a machine with an old file (which is one of the worst things to grind on a fine wheel) to make a screwdriver or something else. This is a common occurrence where there are a lot of men employed. Others have been known to bring an old ax from the scrap pile to grind up and knock the rust off— as they would say-and other instances too numerous to mention. If this class of work is to be tolerated a special wheel should be kept for this purpose. It would also be well to have a cupboard near the machine, with suitable racks therein for the different guage wheels, so that they may be stood on end, as laying them flat on the side is liable to cause them to crack from handling.

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ERBERT KAUFMAN said: "Almost everything that men use or do was considered unfeasible or impossible to all men in some century." Further, he says: "In this year of our Lord, nineteen hundred fourteen, anybody can write his own price ticket, and only a better man than himself can alter the figures."

This trade paper is published in the interest of the industry that it serves. In this section of the paper, matters pertaining to the finishing department are brought before the reader. Most of them have been entirely of a practical nature. Occasionally, a bit theoretical, but not without having been put through experiments in the laboratory, has been presented. It is presumed that the men reading these articles have had a certain amount of practical training, so that the matter given has been understood and comprehended. But, from the letters that reach the desk it is evident that younger men are endeavoring to benefit by that which they read. Especially is this shown by the questions brought forth in response to many of the formulas and methods heretofore published. So we believe it best to reply to this collection of queries collectively, taking up the topic. and replying to them in detail for the benefit of all.

it, but it is not expedient. It costs too much money. Coating the entire work with pyrogallic and tannic acid solutions is, at this time, one of the methods generally employed, whether the work is fumed in a fuming box

Two subjects will bear considerable discussion, as they seem to be most prominent in the requirements of the manufacturer of today. First is the one of getting away from the sap-colored parts of the oak, and the matching of the various oaks in the production of fumed oak. Much has been said of fumed oak. The following notes are, therefore, given as a suggestion for further experiments on a larger scale, such as would be possible in a factory where the proposition comes up daily in the regular run of work.

Let Us Help Each Other

The writer believes it is only fair to ask that those who are following these articles report the results of their experiments to this office. It will work out for the common good and a stray thought may help to clarify one of the most difficult problems. Understand that the man that invented the linotype machine was not a printer. He saw the men at work, got an idea, and produced one of the most valuable machines of the day. Therefore, a practical man may produce an idea which, combined with a technical knowledge, may help out an industry suffering for a method to do away with the above-mentioned problem.

Experiments have shown that up to the present writing it is possible to only partially do away with the sap in fumed oak work. It is nothing more than doctoring, doping up the sappy parts in an effort to equalize the shade. Up to this writing no definite way has been found to remedy this. Bleaching helps some, staining the adjacent parts helps to equalize the final shade, but nothing is absolutely definite. It is not impossible to do

or brought to its final shade with chemicals, but it does not do away with the sap, nor does the method uniform the different kinds of oak. The relative difference of shade is sometimes materially enhanced rather than done away with. For those who wish to do some experimenting, let them prepare a solution of carbonate of potash, one ounce to the gallon, and the same of bi-chromate of potash. That is, an ounce of each to one gallon of water, and coat the entire wood. When dry, wet with a sponge all the light pieces of wood with a very dilute solution of iron, using as I have stated many times before, the solution chloride of iron, which is a staple compound known to every chemist or druggist. This proposition is largely theoretical. Those familiar with these compounds may scoff at it because they know that iron on oak produces a gray, but they will surprise themselves by finding that the alkaline solution put on first has produced a yellowish brown which overcomes the effect of the iron. Of course, the iron must be put on very weak. After this is done, the work should be sanded and the regular fuming process employed. This works very well in the small tests possible in the laboratory. A surprising uniformity is produced, the theory being that you tone down the light part of the wood to match the sappy part, but that the potash solution overcomes the gray of the sap and gives a uniform result. Today we have on the market a light fumed oak which verges very much on the natural shade of oak. Some call it English fumed. Limbert has it out as his "No. 4." To those who encounter this shade of finish, let me say that the three chemicals mentioned above, if used in proper proportions, will produce this style of fumed oak beautifully.

An Inexpensive Finish

The process is just as given above. It is but a matter of strength of solutions. Very cheaply produced; in fact, I know of no finish that can be made at so small an expense. It requires no filler. Put the chemicals on promiscuously. This means, after the right strength has been established, and after the sanding, and the shellac and wax have been applied. I cannot help but say if the expense of putting an oil coat on is warranted, the finish will have a much richer appearance and the method is one that will greatly overcome the original differences in the shades of the natural wood. You must agree with me, however, that in the lighter finishes the original difference in shade is more prominent than in the darker finishes, which again makes this chemical method of producing the light fumed oak admirable.

Quite a number of the readers will recognize in the above replies to their queries. This department will

cheerfully take up any little problems they may encounter in putting into practice any of these suggestions.

Just a few words as to the results obtained by using the brown anilines to alleviate the problem. Take, for example, a factory in which everything is put through the fuming box. It is not impossible to help out greatly the difficulty encountered in the wood. A practical man knows by looking at the raw piece just what shades he is going to have when the piece is finally finished. Let him carry in mind this difference and supplant to the light parts sufficient color so that when the final results are obtained through the fuming process a uniformity will be at hand. I have given up the effort to lighten the color by any bleaching process. It is not practical and the chemicals employed are apt to give trouble in the future. I have found that often the pores in the sappy part are larger and that even though the wood is bleached out, that portion of the work stands out like a sore thumb. Therefore, my conclusion to bring the light part of the wood down to the same shade of the sappy part, and then fume to the depth of shade required in the finish.

Walnut on Gum

It is evident that considerable experimenting is going on in an attempt to produce various finishes on gum. This wood has been used mostly for mahogany and Circassian walnut, but from the samples that have reached me, there seems to be a tendency to employ the wood in other ways, which causes me to believe that in a short time we will have it on the market in new styles. The actual chemicals and stains that are employed in our industry are comparatively few in number. As few as they are, they produce an endless amount of colors. The quantity of each is surprising, and to be thoroughly familiar with what they will do is that which enables the production of a "price ticket" of one's own liking. To be master of the goods and materials that one employs in his vocation, and to know why certain results obtained make it possible for the manipulator to keep in control the results he is after, and to deliver the goods at all times, is vastly important. Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the three chemicals mentioned in this article in connection with the production of colors on gum wood. The most beautiful results are possible.

Gum wood has always given the appearance of a soft, light, characterless wood. It does not produce in the mind's eye that satisfaction of solidity to be had in oaks. When finished as mahogany, if not embellished by the presence of some genuine veneer, you will look at it and say, "It's only gum." Go to a room in any modern hotel and look at the mahogany doors and you will say "They are only gum." It is true some gum wood properly sawn has a good figur and presents a more characterful and solid appearance does the plain wood. Therefore,

there is an opportunity for finishes that will produce a depth of color--an appearance of strength now missing

in gum.

Finishes Which Are Out of Vogue

Verdi green and moss brown were two of the introductory finishes on gum, but you hardly hear of them now. They were rather insipid and superficial. To overcome this, take an ordinary piece of gum, coat it with a potash solution, made out of the two salts mentioned, make up several strengths, sand it off carefully, and try a number of coats of iron of various strengths. Sand again and oil it. After the oil is thoroughly dry, give two coats of shellac and rub dull, or apply any of the popular finishes and note the results. You know it is gum wood you are looking at, but you will be pleasantly surprised

at the change in effect that is possible in this now common wood.

That gum wood is being used in connection with the genuine American walnut, is nothing new. But now that the finisher is receiving the genuine article, and has it to finish, and gets both woods in one piece of furniture, he has a different problem than where gum alone was made to imitate walnut. There is a certain difference in the texture of the wood which is hard to overcome. When you meet with this problem, use a potash solution on the gum, but don't put it on the genuine walnut, and note your results. Then, too, be very careful that the walnut is thoroughly sanded, for every little particle of walnut wood, when it becomes saturated with oil, takes on a much darker color, and if allowed to remain on the surface of the wood may change the entire shade of the final finish. To the novice it might be a surprising experiment to take some of the sanding dust of walnut, wet it with turpentine and spread it over a light board such as white wood, and note the results.

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It Pays to Make Goods Right

OME years ago, when the guaranteed article took its place in the limelight of publicity, it was looked upon as a daring thing. But it proved the making, not the breaking, of the manufacturer, and soon the logic of it became apparent. An article that was good enough to be guaranteed really didn't need to be guaranteed. It was just the advertising catch-word, the only thing that was strong enough to take the place of and beat out the time-honored phrase "the old reliable."

The guaranteed article pretty nearly relegated the "old reliables" to the top shelves. It made possible the successful competition of new goods with those of traditional merit.

Now-a-days every manufacturer, almost, is willing to guarantee his products, but even if he doesn't the merchant who handles them will offer his customers a fair exchange or money back in case of dissatisfaction.

Many dealers are fortunate enough to have an understanding with the manufacturer which takes into consideration the satisfaction of customers. Those who haven't such an understanding will sooner or later change to another brand of goods.

The logic of these observations is that it pays to make goods right, so that they can stand a guarantee if the call comes.

The manufacturer who doesn't care to erect a moneyback platform should standardize his goods so that his dealers can offer protection to customers. That means putting more conscience in the little details of equipment right down to every set of casters.

Casters are the biggest little things in the entire range of furniture equipment.-Caster Logic.

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"The Iron Age" Points Out the Dangers HE Iron Age has called attention to the fact that the machinery trade will be adversely affected by a bill now before congress, which contains a provision to abolish the generally adopted principle of exclusive territorial rights in the relations of the manufacturer and his agents. It is held that the present arrangement in metal-working machinery, whereby manufacturers sell through exclusive agents, is convenient for the maker and efficient as far as the distributor is concerned, and that to adopt the plan which would be required by the law would bring about a chaotic condition. The proposed law is one of the "five brothers" antitrust bills.