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The following observations on Italy, and on Italian manners, occurred in the course of the same Tour in which those contained in a book lately published, entitled, A View of Society and Manners in France, Switzerland, and Germany, were made. All who have read that Book will perceive, at first sight, that the present Work is a continuation of the former : but to those who have not, it was thought necessary to account for the abrupt manner in which the following Letters begin.

CLARGES STREET, December 14, 1780.

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CONTENTS

OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

LÄTTER I. Journey from Vienna to Venice.......

...................................1

II. The Arsenal-The Bucentaur-Doge's Marriage...................... .8

III. The Island of Murano-Glass Manufactory--Mr. Montague......11

IV, Situation of Venice-Lagune-Canals-Bridges.................

V. Piazza di St. Marco Patriarchal Church--Ducal Palace-Broglio..18

VI. Reflections excited by the various Objects around St. Mark's Square

-On Painting--A Connoisseur....

...................................................... 23

yil. Origin of Venice............................................................... ...28

VIII. Various Changes in the Form of Government-Tyrannical Conduct

of a Doge-Savage Behaviour of the People-Commerce of Venice..31

IX. New Regulations Foundation of the Aristocracy-Origin of the Ce.

remony of espousing the Sea-New Forms of Magistracy...............36

X. Henry Dandolo.......
......................................................................

..42

XI. New Courts-New Magistrates Reformation of the Venetian Code

- The Form of electing the Doge..............................................46

XII. Aristocracy established--Conspiracies--Insurrections Ecclesiastic.

al Inquisition—The College, or Seigniory ....................................52

XIII. Conspiracy against the State, by a Doge--Singular Instance of

Weakness and Vanity in a Noble Venetian-New Magistrates to

prevent Luxury--Courtesans....

.................58

XIV. Rigour of Venetian Laws exemplified in the Cases of Antonio Ve.
nier, Carlo Zeno, and young Foscari......... ......

.........64

XV. The Council of Ten, and the State Inquisitors.Reflections on these

Institutions...........

.69

XVI. League of Cambray-War with TurksAntonio Bragadino-Bate

tle of Lepanta-Disputes with the Pope.............

............ 76

XVII. Marquis of Bedamar's Conspiracy-False Accusations The Siege

of Candia-The Impatience of a Turkish Emperor-Conclusion of the

Review of the Venetian Government.............

.........83

XVIII. Venetian Manners-Opera-Affectation-A Duo-Dancers....89

XIX. No Military Establishment at Venice-What supplies its place..94

XX. Reflections on the Nature of Venetian Government-Gondoleers-

Citizens-The Venetian Subjects on the Terra Firma.....................96

XXI. Gallantry--Cassinos.........

...99

XXII. Character of Venetians--Customs and Usages Influence of Fa-

VOL. II.

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shion in Matters of Taste-Prejudice_The Excellence of Italian Comic

Actors........

....... .....103

LETTER XXIII. Departure from Venice-Padua-St. Anthony, his Tomb

and Miracles..........

................109

XXIV. Church of St. Justina-The Bodies of St. Matthew and St. Luke

- The University-Beggars

................ 112

XXV. The Antiquity of Padua The Brenta-The Po_The Thames .114

XXVI, Ferrara—The Family of Este-Ariosto, the Emperor, and his

Brothers, lodge at an Inn, which oversets the Understanding of the

Landlord-An Inscription

............. 119

XXVII. Bologna-Its Government, Commerce, Palaces ..................122

XXVIII. The Academy of Arts and Sciences-Church of St. Petronius

-Dominican Convent-Palaces-Raphael-Guido

..............126

XXIX. Journey from Bologna to Ancona-The Rubicon-Julius Cæsar

--Pesaro-Fano-Claudius Nero-Asdrubal--Senegalia...............131

XXX. Ancona--The Influence of Commerce on the Characters of Man-

kind-The Mole—The Triumphal Arch of the Emperor Trajan....... 136

XXXI. Loretto-History of the Casa Santa..

....................................140

XXXII. Description of the Sacred Chapel - The Treasury................

XXXIII. Pilgrimages to Loretta—Manufactures, Confessionals–Basso

Relievos-Zeal of Pilgrims--Iron Grates before the Chapels—Reflec-

tions........
...........................................................

.....148

XXXIV. Tolentino-The Appennines—A Hermit-Umbria-Spoletto153

XXXV. Terni--Narni--Otricoli

--Civita--Castellana--Campania of

Rome........

............................................................157

XXXVI. Rome-Conversazionis--Cardinal Bernis-The Distress of an

Italian Lady............

...........161

XXXVII. Remarks on ancient and modern Rome-The Church of St.

Peter's...............

..165

XXXVIII. The Ceremony of the PossessO......................

XXXIX. Pantheon-Coliseum-Gladiators........................

.175

XL. The Campidoglio-Forum Romanum-Jews.........

XLI. Ruins_Via Sacra- Tarpeian Rock-Campus Martius–Various

Forums-- Trajan's Column.........

.188

XLII. The Beatification of a Saint.......

193

XLIII. Character of Modern Italians-Observations on Huinan Nature

in General-An Engļish Officer-Cause of the Frequency of the Crime

of Murder........

................196

XLIV. Different kinds of Punishment-Account of an Execution-Souls

in Purgatory.

.....202

XLV. The Usual Course with an Antiquarian-An Expeditious Course,

by a Young Englishman-The Villa Borghese........... ........208

XLVI. The Morning Study of an Artist-Conversation with Him on that

Subject-An Italian Lady and her Confessor. The Lady's Religious

Scruples and Precaution..................... .

.........217

XLVII. Busts and Statues of distinguished Romans-Of Heathen Deities

Passion of the Greeks and Romans for Sculpture-Farnesian Hercu-
les criticised by a Lady-Remarks on that SialueOn the Flurifo
their Characters after their Deaths—The King of Naples--A Game at

fect which the Sight of the Statues of Laocoon and his Sons had on

Two Spectators of Opposite Characters--Mr. Lock's Observations on

the same Group—The Antinous_The Appollo.......

Letter XLVIII. The Present Pope-Ganganelli A Scotch Presbyte-

rian..........

.......

XLIX. Zeal of Pius VI.-Institution of the Jubilee-Ceremony of Build-

ing up the Holy Door of St. Peter's by the Present Pope–The Ceremo-

ny of High Mass performed by the Pope on Christmas Day-Character

of the Present Pope-He is admired by the Roman Women-The Be-

nediction pronounced in the Grand Area before the Church of St. Peter's

....236

L. Presented to the Pope Reflections on the Situation of Sovereigns in

General—The Sovereign Pontiff in Particular.....

..242

LI. Modern Romans-Roman Women compared with those of England

Portrait fainting in Italy, and elsewhere...........

.249

LII. Carnival at Rome Masquerades and other Amusements in the

Corso-Horse-Races-Serious Opera—Great Sensibility in a Young
Woman---Extravagant Expression of a Roman Citizen at the Opera-
A Serenade on Christmas Morning~ Female Performers prohibited on
the Theatres at Rome-Eunuchs substituted–The Effect on the Minds

of Spectators........................................................................

255

LIII. Journey from Rome to Naples_Veletri-Otho–Sermonetta-

Peevish Travellers-Monte Circello-Piperno-Fossa Nuova......260

LIV. Terracina --Via Appia-Fundi-Gaeta – Illustrious French Rebels

-Bourboil-Minturnæ-Marius-Hannibal.................... ..269

LV. Naples--Fortress of St. Elmo--Conversation with a Lady regarding

the Carthusians-Manufactures--Number of Inhabitants.......... ..274

LVI. Manners.................................................................

.279

LVII. Respect paid to Kings during their Lives--Freedoms used with

Billiards—Characters of the King and Queen.....

282

LVIII. The Neapolitan Nobles— The Peasants..............

286

LIX. Citizens--Lawyers--Physicians--Clergy--Convents--Lazzaroni..290

LX. Herculaneum–Portici–Pompeia...........

..295

LXI. Poetical Rehearsers in the Streets of Naples--Street Orators and

Historians-improuvisatories- Signora Corilla--Sensibility of Italians

-English Gentlemen of the Ton-A Neapolitan Mountebank......303

LXII. A Visit to Mount Vesuvius..........

.311

LXIII. Observations on the Pulmonary Consumption................

...317

LXIV. Neapolitan and English Customs and Characters criticized and

compared, in a Conversation between two English Gentlenen.........335

LXV. The Liquefaction of St. Januarius's Blood Procession, Ceremo-

nies, Anxiety of the People-Their Preposterous Abuse of the Saint-

Observation of a Roman Catholic... ...........

..342

LXVI. The Tomb of Virgil-Pausilippo-A Neapolitan Valet---Grotta

del Cane-Campi Phlegrei, Solfaterra, Monte Nuova, &c._ Puzzoli--

Baia-Cumx...........

.....350

.........

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