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hill on which the fort is built, and just above this edifice, a number of arches are seen, probably belonging to private dwellings of different dates, for some were of the Roman and others apparently of the Saracen form; unless this last was occasioned by the falling together of the sides of the arches, a point I could not determine, from not being near enough to decide. To the westward of these, but still on the north of the stream, and at the foot of the hill, is the portion of a very large edifice which looked like a temple. I could not cross the stream to examine it, but saw several columns standing, many others fallen, and a part of the northern wall, with a doorway, pediments, cornice, and other ornaments, still perfect.

Continuing westerly, the valley widens to the north; and on the north, the hill on the side of which the theatre is built, presses close on the stream, which runs, in this place, beneath a lofty cliff of yellowish stone. A broad arch is here thrown over the brook, the concave or under part of which is smooth, but the upper part of it rough and broken; as if some building had originally been built on the arch, the brook itself being not more than 15 or 20 feet wide.

After crossing over this arch, I came to a large edifice, presenting a semicircular front towards the stream, built of rustic masonry, with large solid stones of an oblong form, closely joined without cement. In the exterior of the southern front, there are appearances which would seem to indicate that water-works of some description had been used here, probably for some purpose connected with the fortification of the hill. On the interior are columns that once stood around the concave part of the semicircle, some still standing and others fallen, with broken fragments of the building, extending for many yards in a northerly direction. The pediments of the recesses, the cornices, and other ornaments around this interior face of the southern wall, do not appear to have been finished; as many parts exhibit only the preparatory stages of the work, in which the larger parts required to be removed are first roughly hollowed out, and the remainder left for the finishing

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chisel of the sculptor. The capitals of the columns were, however, finished, and some even seemed in a state of great decay; one of the shafts still standing had also been cleft down the middle, apparently by lightning. The general form of this edifice was oblong, presenting a semicircular end towards the stream on the south, and the order of the architecture was Corinthian.

To the south-west of this is a larger and more perfect building, with Roman arches, and a square tower arising from it. I dared not go over to examine this, however, as I had already been absent more than an hour, and in the vicinity of the building itself I saw Arabs with their flocks, so that I could not have passed among them without observation. I therefore ascended the hill from hence to the S. E., and on reaching its top observed other buildings and columns on the side of the opposite hill to the N. W., with arches over the stream to the westward, at the distance of about half a mile. The stream is said to run from this westerly, inclining sometimes northerly in its course, winding frequently until it joins the Zerkah, when it falls with it into the Jordan, and is ultimately lost in the Dead Sea.

On returning to the tent from which I had stolen away to make this unperceived visit to the ruins of Amman, I was surprised to find Abu Farah and my horse departed: I enquired whither, and it was answered, in search of me. The fact was, that the nature of my occupation had rendered me insensible to the progress of time, and the sun was now three hours high, while no one knew where I had wandered. The sheikh, Abu Suliman, coming into the tent, accosted me with a very angry look, and accused me of being a Muggrebin magician, come here to raise the treasures which belonged to him as lord of the place. He insisted on my producing my instruments and writings. I declared that I had none. He laid hold of me by the arm, and said he would search me. I resisted; though there was no one near on whom I could rely for assistance, and even my musket and dirk had been taken away by

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Abu Farah, along with my horse, in the hope that he might discover me, and render it unnecessary to return again to the camp. I was determined, however, though quite alone, to resist any violence offered to my person, and in the struggle I fortunately prevailed. I was then questioned as to where I had been? I replied, to wash -myself in the stream. It was asked, why? I answered, because I had been defiled by unholy dreams. Where was my country? Stamboul. Was I Muslim? "Ul humd al Illah La Illah ul Ullah" was my reply; but the rest of the sentence was cut off by quick demands of where I was going? what was the object of my journey? &c. &c. At length, finding all his questions readily answered, the sheikh tried softer means, and endeavoured to persuade me, that as lord of the palace of Solomon the son of David the prophet, he had a right to at least half the treasures found within the ruins; and then by entreaty strove to extort from me the confession of my having really raised such treasures, by the aid of incantations and charms.

While this controversy was carrying on betwixt us, two women entered the tent. These were the sheikh's wives, both of whom had gone in search of me, without gaining any trace of my steps; which the sheikh insisted could not have happened, had I not been a magician, and possessed the power of concealing myself from the sight of others.

In the midst of this unpleasant discussion, which I could only maintain by opposing denials to accusations, my old guide, Abu Farah, returned to the tent, exclaiming, as he entered it," Ya, Hadjee Abdallah," and upbraiding me with all the real anger of one grossly offended at my indiscretion. I said not a word, but remained silent till his rage had spent itself in imprecations, angry questions, and self-suggested replies, when I found it necessary to set up the same excuse as I had given the sheikh, for washing in the stream. This, however, did not satisfy him; for he continued to believe that I really went to the ruins for the purpose of raising

treasures, and accused me of ingratitude, as well as injustice, in withholding from him his due portion, as the guide of my way and the companion of my fate. fate. This conviction was too deeply

rooted to be easily removed.

I therefore submitted to it as an

evil which I had not the power to remedy, and consented to an immediate departure on our journey.

M

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FROM AMMAN TO AN ENCAMPMENT OF ARABS NEAR DELILĀT.

In leaving Amman, we ascended the hill to the S. E. of it, and passed several excavated tombs in the way. The entrance to one of these had a richly ornamented doorway, but I dared not halt for a moment to enter it. Sarcophagi were also scattered about in different spots, so that there must have been a necropolis or burial place, both on the north and on the south of the city, one on each of the respective hills that bounded it in these quarters.

Our course from hence was nearly S. S. E., and we went for an hour and a half over a wide public road, limited on each side by large stones still remaining, and similar to the great road by which Amman was approached from the west. The plain The plain over which

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