used by the Desert Arabs when they advance to the attack in battle to conceal their features, or in cold weather for warmth, or among strangers to whom they do not wish to be known, so that nothing remained visible except the eyes while we scarcely turned our regards on either side, but contented ourselves with returning the salutations of the faith with which all passengers are greeted on their entry into a town or city, whatever be the object of their journey.

The street through which we passed was paved in the centre, upon a raised level, forming an excellent road for beasts of burden, camels, and horses, and would easily admit the passage of six or eight abreast. Below this raised road, was an unpaved space on each side, and within this again a pavement of smaller stones, nearly as broad as the central raised way, for foot passengers, along the fronts of the dwellings, shops, and other edifices that lined the street. Had the buildings been at all correspondent to the length and breadth of this fine road, the effect of the whole would have been excellent; but these were, in general, poor and mean, and totally destitute of uniformity, whether in size, style, or material. Among the principal edifices I noticed several mosques, some of modern, and others apparently of a pretty old date. The shops were all open, and many manufactories of cotton, silk, stuff, and leather, were carried on at each side of the street in the open air. Notwithstanding my disappointment at the general inferiority of the buildings of this fine street to the expectation I had formed of them, I was nevertheless much pleased at the cleanliness of every thing we saw, and the apparent health and beauty of the people of all classes that we met in our way, as well as the richness and gaiety of apparel, among the young and old, the rich and poor, in proportion to their several ages and ranks; the oldest and the poorest among them, however, being much better dressed than the ordinary class of people in any Arab or Turkish town that I had yet seen. There was a degree of order and tranquillity also visible in every part of the street, even that most thickly crowded with people, which was

pleasing to witness, and gave a very favourable impression as to the sober and orderly habits of the inhabitants.

After more than half an hour's continued ride through this single street, which led us nearly into the centre of the city, we turned off to the westward, and went for upwards of half an hour more through narrow passages and covered bazārs, forming a perfect labyrinth, until we reached the convent of the Catholic Christians, at which we arrived about sun-set. Notwithstanding the poverty of my dress, being still habited as a Bedouin Arab, and though unfurnished with any letter of introduction, from not anticipating the necessity which had forced me into this route, I received a very kind and hospitable reception. The president, a native of Spain, and one of the fattest and in every respect most jolly-looking friars that I had ever seen, had received letters, however, from his brethren at the convents of Jerusalem and Nazareth, in which the names of Mr. Bankes and myself, as English travellers, who had been there, were mentioned with great respect, and in consequence of which it was probable that either of us passing this way would be treated with more than usual attention.

While a supper of fresh fish was preparing, a suit of clean garments was brought to me from one of the Christian merchants residing near the convent, and I enjoyed a pleasure not to be described in throwing off clothes that had never been changed for thirty days, though sleeping almost constantly on the bare ground. Neither was my pleasure less in devouring with a zest almost unknown before, the fresh fish, soft bread, and excellent wine of Lebanon set before me for my evening repast. An excellent apartment was given up to my exclusive use, containing a good bed, a sofa, table, chairs, and drawers, with a dressing-room and closet adjoining, and a window opening into a paved court below, in which was a fine clear fountain and several

orange trees, besides a passage leading to an open terrace, whereon I might uninterruptedly enjoy the morning and evening air. I had scarcely ever before enjoyed so sudden and complete a transition from all the

sufferings and privations of a barbarous and almost savage mode of life to the pleasures and abundance of a civilized and social state of existence. I was, indeed, so deeply impressed with the feeling of enjoyment, that it absorbed all other considerations, except the wish that I could surround myself with those friends who were dearest to me in the world, and live with them in peace and retirement at Damascus for ever.

Q Q

DAMASCUS, Thursday, March 22.— At daylight I was accompanied to an excellent bath by one of the servants of the convent, and remained there in the delightful enjoyment which it afforded until nearly noon. This bath is called the Bath of Musk, and belongs to the family of Ahmed Bey, a family that has furnished more Pashas to different provinces of the state than any other throughout all Turkey, whether in Europe or Asia. or Asia. As that family is now much poorer than formerly, notwithstanding the lucrative employment of so many of its members, while at the same time they endeavour to maintain such a show of grandeur as they think necessary for the maintenance of their dignity, great funds are still required for their disbursements as before, and to

raise these, a number of the palaces, gardens, and baths, belonging to the family, and once appropriated solely to their use, are now opened (as I learnt) to the public, of which the bath alluded to is an instance, and from this source a considerable annual sum is raised. From the great expense and care bestowed on its first construction, it is justly deemed one of the finest baths of the city; and though those of Cairo are renowned for their costliness and convenience, I thought this much superior to any that I had seen in the capital of Egypt.

On my return to the convent, I was visited by several Christian merchants, all Syrians by birth, and mostly natives of Damascus; accompanied by Doctor Chaboçeau, an old French gentleman nearly eighty years of age, now quite deaf, with his interpreter, Ibrahim, equally as old and as deaf as his master. The venerable physician had been more than fifty years in the East, or the Levant as it is generally called, including Constantinople, Cairo, Aleppo, and Damascus, yet during all this time he had acquired no one language of the country, speaking only French, and understanding Italian but imperfectly. This indifference, incapacity, or aversion of the French to the acquisition of foreign languages, every where remarked, and wherever they are placed in foreign countries, they are of all Europeans the slowest in acquiring either the language, the manners, or the habits of feeling prevalent among those by whom they are surrounded, retaining their nationalities, unaltered, after even years of exile and seclusion.

is

M. Chaboçeau's behaviour to me was full of urbanity and kindness, and during this our first interview he entertained me with many anecdotes of the several European travellers who had passed this way during his long residence in Syria, particularly of Mr. Browne, the Darfour discoverer; Pedro Nuñes, or Ali Beyel-Abassy, the Spaniard who had traversed Barbary; Doctor Seetzen, and Mr. Burckhardt; all of whom he had known personally. He had seen the celebrated Abyssinian Bruce at Cairo, and passed some days with Mr. Volney, at Acre; and, though he