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Although the principal edifices at Gunnawat are much destroyed, and the whole of them in a state of ruin, it is remarkable that there are no appearances of Mohammedan works erected over these, or out of their fragments, as is the case in almost all the other cities and towns in this eastern region. The presence of the theatre indicates with certainty that this was once a settlement of the Romans, when the whole of this country was annexed to the empire as one of its colonies: and many of the principal edifices were certainly Roman temples for the worship of their particular deities. In the course of events, these came to be converted into Christian places of worship by the Greeks of the Lower Empire, who probably engrafted the emblem of the cross on what were originally Pagan edifices, and also affixed many of their inscriptions on such buildings at the period of their being dedicated to the service of their new faith. But no Arabic or Saracen works were seen amidst all the numerous and varied assemblage of ruins here: so that it is probable, at least, that it might have escaped them in the fury of their conquests. I know of no place that would furnish a richer harvest to a traveller possessed of leisure and the means of research than this; and I had again to feel deep and poignant regret at the circumstances which made it impossible for me to prosecute my enquiries with that minuteness which I had ardour enough to desire, and should have had perseverance enough to accomplish, had but time and fortune, with a freedom from other engagements, justified the pursuit.

By the time that I had made this hurried visit to the places described, the refreshments preparing for us at the house of the principal Druse resident were ready, and we returned to partake of them with increased zest. As we sat on the terrace of the Druse's house to partake of our morning meal, and were at once admiring and enjoying the extensive view of the Haurān which we commanded from hence, extending from this eastern range of hills to the mountains west of the Jordan, our Druse entertainer observed, that there was another Haurān behind us to the eastward,

(by which he meant a plain in all other respects similar to this,) which he afterwards added was even more extensive and more fertile than the western one. He assured us also that it was full of ruined cities and towns, larger and better built than Gunnawāt, with churches, palaces, theatres, and other edifices. There were at present no permanent residents in any of these towns, though they are all occasionally occupied by parties of the Desert Arabs, who find pasture for their camels and flocks in their neighbourhood. For this reason it would be difficult for any traveller to range over the eastern plain without a strong escort; but for one who had the liberty and the means, there could be no more promising field to reward his enterprise. The names of these ruined towns are known only to the Arabs of the Desert, though several of our party in their occasional intercourse with the eastern tribes, had seen and passed through many of them; but as these were unpeopled, and they had no particular motive for enquiring their names, they took no pains to learn them.

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The few Druses that we saw here were handsome, well-dressed, clean, and polite in their manners. We ate our food out of earthenware vessels, and drank out of brass bowls lined with tin and the Druses and myself made an excellent repast, though my guides, being rigid Christians of the Greek faith, still kept their fast by abstaining from all kinds of animal food, even eggs, butter, and milk, and confining themselves to bread, vegetables, and oil. This gave occasion for another discussion respecting fasting, which the Druses approved as to the matter, but disapproved as to the manner, saying that satisfying the appetite at any hour of the day, whatever the description of food might be, was not fasting at all; and that the only true fasting was a total abstinence from all kinds of food for some specific period, such as the Ramadān of the Mohammedans, from sunrise to sunset. I was surprised to learn during this debate, that though the Druses dislike the Mohammedans generally, and entertain no tenet in common with their faith, yet that many of them have been so infected with

their customs, as to keep the fast of Ramadan with as much rigour as the most orthodox follower of the Arabian prophet; in the same manner that the Mussulmans of India, though they profess to hate and despise the Hindoos, have nevertheless adopted so many of their superstitions and ceremonies, as to be regarded by their western brethren as little better than infidels and idolaters.

The passion of all classes of people in these countries for arms, has frequently been remarked; and, as usual, we had a long dispute about the relative value of different weapons from different countries, in which the sabres of Ispahaun and Damascus were unanimously preferred, and the muskets and pistols of England praised above all others. I did not much wonder at this opinion, as it is justly and universally prevalent in the East; but I was both surprised and pleased to see one of the Druses produce, at this remote and unfrequented spot, an excellent fowling-piece, with the name of “ Webb, London" on the lock, as evincing the manner in which our manufactures are sure, sooner or later, to spread themselves everywhere.

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WE quitted the interesting ruins of Gunnawat at noon: and descending to the westward through a stony country covered with thorny shrubs and bushes, we came in an hour to the large ruined town of Ateel.

At the south end of this is a small but beautiful Corinthian temple, facing the north, the sculptured ornaments of which are richly designed, and executed in a bold relief; concave niches were remarked in several parts of it, and square pedestals, projecting from the front columns half way up their height, as if for supporting small statues.

At the south end are the remains also of a small temple, and from the south front of this, near the eastern corner, I copied the following inscription, deeply cut.

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From a stone near this, and beneath a fragment of sculpture, apparently belonging to a statue, the following was taken.

ΘΑΙΜΟΠΑ

OVTWNOE

WNAYPANEK

TONEAEWIN

ПОВСEN

And from two other fragments of shapeless stone, each of them broken in pieces, the following portions were obtained.

ΚΠΕΡΣΙΙΗΙ
KYPIOY.... HN
TOKPATOPO

ΑΕΤΟΥ
IWN
EKAIEAPOE

The small temple from which these fragments were separated, and near to which they were found, was in the most chaste style of the Corinthian order, and must have been built before the decline of architecture in this country. The arch and pediment were in the best proportions; and the building was adorned with fan-topped or shell niches, and beautifully rich sculpture, of the same style, but better executed than that at Gunnawat.

In the centre of the town was seen a square tower, sloping upward from the base, and growing narrower gradually as it approached the summit, with curiously sculptured mouldings, giving it an Egyptian or Indian appearance. There was a large reservoir for water, and many houses now unoccupied, there being only a few Druse families residing amid these ruins. One of these had taken up its abode in the first little Corinthian temple, which rendered it

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