It was about noon when we left Jerash, quitting it now by the western wall. Proceeding westerly for about an hour, and going over rocky ground, we came to the village of Kittey, which is modern station, entirely occupied by Mohammedans. It has good water, an excellent soil, and an abundance of olive trees near it, with about fifty separate dwelling houses.

Proceeding more northerly, but over the same kind of rocky ground, we came, in another hour, to Eremoon. At this place we found a well-built Mohammedan tomb, with a reservoir for water and a large spreading tree near it, on which, as well as at the door of the tomb itself, were suspended tokens of devotion in various shapes. Near it, was also a deserted mosque, with pillars on the

inside, and a tolerably good exterior, with a small inscribed tablet half way up the wall, on the northern face of the building. There were many trees in the surrounding soil, and a population that appeared to be in as comfortable circumstances as peasants and labourers ever are in these ill-governed and improvident countries, where it is literally the custom to take no heed for the morrow, but to let the day provide for itself.

We ascended a steep hill on leaving this spot, and in half an hour after quitting it, passed by a place called Ahheatherah, which, from the large size of the stones of which its buildings were constructed, and the great abundance of fragments of fine pottery scattered around it, indicated an ancient site, whose very ruin must have been at some remote period, as it was quite grown over

with trees.

Being now near the summit of Jebel Adjeloon, we could see, from this elevation, the deep valley of the Zerkah, with its stream winding from the S. E. to the N. W. The head of this stream is said to rise near Amman, and to form the brook that runs through the ruins of that city. From our present position we could also observe, that on the summit of Jebel Asswete, there was an elevated plain like that of Belkah, which we had passed over on our way from Assalt to Oom-el-Russas. Beyond this again, to the eastward, is the lower plain of the Hauran, which is said to be even more thickly covered with ruined cities and towns than either of the districts already traversed in this once abundantly peopled, and now comparatively desolate, region.

On turning our way round the top of this elevated point of Jebel Adjeloon, we shaped our course more northerly; the soil being still clay, with sand and limestone intermixed, and the whole covered with firs and other trees. From what I observed here, it would seem, that in these high regions, and remote from the seacoast, the wind blew most frequently, and with greater strength, from the northward than from any other quarter, as the largest trees were all much bent to the southward, and in a manner so uniform

that could have only been effected by long prevailing winds; yet it is remarkable, that all along the Syrian shore, southerly winds prevail throughout the largest portion of the year. On the left of our present route was a western branch of the same chain of hills, stretching out from that on which we rode, and thickly covered with wood; and in the valley below, a few ruins of some old place, which my guides named Huzzar.

Proceeding now in nearly a N. W. direction, we came, in half an hour, upon the site of old ruins, which bore the name of Oomel-Jelood, the remains of which were now grown over with trees. In its neighbourhood were fine corn-fields, in which the young corn had begun to appear; and near to the site of the town there still remained a fine fountain of water, and the portion of an ancient paved road. We continued to ascend over a hill covered with the same kind of trees as those abounding near Assalt, which were there called Finjan, but were here pronounced Sinjan trees; they were covered on the bark by a rich and beautiful moss.

From the summit of the hill we could see Mounts Tabor and Hermon, with the hill in the hollow of which Nazareth is seated, bearing N. W. over the Valley of the Jordan. Here, too, we first obtained a sight of the castle and valley of Adjeloon. From hence we descended to the westward, and came, in half an hour, to the village of Anjerah. There was a Roman arched well, which stood near the entrance of this village, and fine corn-fields and olivegrounds close to the houses, which pleasingly relieved the picture. We alighted here to take coffee and enquire the news of the road ; but learnt nothing worthy of notice. The village itself was a flourishing one, and the people apparently industrious and happy : the population was estimated at about 500 Moslems, and twenty Christian families. The castle of Adjeloon, in its general appearance, resembled that of Assalt; and below it, at the foot of the hill on whose summit it stood, was pointed out to us the village of Arrhubbudth, now deserted and in ruins, while in the valley near this, stood the villages of Adjeloon and Ain Jerrah.

We descended, after leaving Anjerah, and passed through a rich and beautiful wood scenery, with grottos in the cliffs, large masses of fallen rock, moss-covered stones and old trees, that presented the most picturesque assemblage of objects; and, after going in a westerly direction for half an hour, we came to Cufr Injey, a village approached through corn-fields and olive grounds. The scenery of our ride over the mountain of Adjeloon, and more particularly down its western side, when we first obtained a sight of the castle on the opposite hill, and the whole aspect of the fine valley below, was equal in beauty to any portion of this richly varied country that I had yet beheld.

We halted at Cufr Injey, and alighted at the house of a Nazarene, named Maalim Yakoube, who had settled here as a schoolmaster, doctor, and worker in metals, and who was thought to be the most clever man to be found in all the country, for many miles round. We met with a very kind reception from this worthy person, and between himself and my companions, as well as between them and various visitors of the village, who had collected around us almost before we alighted, there were exchanged all those cordial salutations, kissings, and greetings, for which the Arabs are so remarkable. Maalim Yakoube, who was a young man of rather a handsome person, was unusually well dressed, with two fine cloth pelisses, of bright red and blue colours, and wore a rich shawl turban, while his wife and infant child were literally laden with gold and silver ornaments, so that his triple profession must have been a profitable one. The dwelling of this family was like all the abodes that I had yet seen, for persons in moderate condition; namely, a raised portion for the members of the family, and a lower part for the household stock and cattle. The workshop in which the silver and gold of the peasants were worked up into rudely fashioned ornaments for their women and children, as well as the school in which the latter were flogged into a knowledge of reading and writing, stood near the house, so that the establishment was all under the eye of the master and

conveniently seated also for his domestic comfort. There were only two Christians in the place besides our host, and as these were not present among the groupe that surrounded us on our arrival, they were sent for, when the kissing and greeting of our first meeting was again repeated.

After we had satisfied the curiosity of our Mohammedan visitors, they gradually dispersed; and being now left alone, or with Christian companions only, the conversation became more free and unconstrained than while they were present. The subjects touched on were chiefly religious and political, and the beaten ground of the partition of the Turkish empire among the sovereigns of Christendom, was trodden again with renewed zeal, the Maalim Yakoube taking a warm and lively interest in the prospects of future emolument and advancement which such a scene opened to his aspiring hopes. Our supper consisted of a dish of rice, peas, and onions, all stewed together in oil; and ungrateful as such a mess must naturally be to an English palate, my appetite was rendered so keen by hunger, that I literally and truly enjoyed it, and made a hearty meal. By way of dessert, some walnuts and dried figs were afterwards served to us, besides a very curious article, probably resembling the dried wine of the ancients, which they are said to have preserved in cakes. Those of which we now partook might also be called wine-cakes: they were of the shape of a cucumber, and were made out of the fermented juice of the grape formed into a jelly, and in this state wound round a central thread of the kernel of walnuts; the pieces of the nuts thus forming a support for the outer coat of jelly, which became harder as it dried, and would keep, it was said, fresh and good for many months, forming a welcome treat at all times, and being particularly well adapted for sick or delicate persons, who might require some grateful provisions capable of being carried in a small compass, and without risk of injury on a journey.

During the conversation of the evening, I learnt that the population of this village was about 400, all of whom were Mo

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