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CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.

Coast of Syria--Mount Lebanon-Beirout-Quarantine-Lazaretto -Sunset-A wild Turk-Greek and Druse Women-St. George and the Dragon-Suleiman Pasha-Antiquities-Mosaics-Streets of Beirout Cemetery-Mourners-Mulberry Groves-Fountain-The Emir Beshir-Disarming of the Druses-Journey to Deir el Kammar-Ibrahim Pasha-Bteddin-Emir Beshir's Castle-The Emir's Court-Stud-Harem-Horses--Baths-Egyptian Soldiers-The Druses-The Maronites-Monastery of Kanobin-Metualies-Beirout— Idiot--Seizure of Mules-Scenery--Harbor--Governor--Muleteer.-13.

CHAPTER II.

Beirout-Departure-Curious Cavalcade-Ascent of LibanusMoonlight Scene-Encampment-Druse Women-Khan-Descent of Libanus-Zahle-Tomb of Noah-Cœlcsyria-Circular ruined Temple-Baalbec--Its Origin-Worship of Baal-Gigantic Stones -Ruins-Temples-Grand Portico-Temple of the Sun-Architectural Ornaments-Smaller Temple-Ruined Corridors-Cavalry Review-Arab Funeral Lamentation-The Corpse-The Grief of the Women-Village of Baalbec.-34.

CHAPTER III.

Excursion to Mount Lebanon-Monumental Column-Cedars of Lebanon-Baalbec - Vaults-Cisterns - Quarries - Anti-LibanusArabs-Scenery-Village of Surgawich-Arab Visitors-Arab Women-Zebdeni-Its Environs-River Barrada-Wady BarradaScenery of the Wady-Souk-Souk Barrada-Djissr DumarSheikh's Tomb-First view of Damascus-The rich Foliage-The Rivers of Damascus-Entrance of the City-Bazaar—Blindness— Fruits-Convent.-50.

CHAPTER IV.

Damascus-Convent-Bath of Musk-Hall of PreparationBathing Scene-Bathing Process-Women's Bath-Great Mosque -Bazaars-Pastry Cooks-Arabian Nights-Book Bazaar-KoranConvent-Saddle Horses-Environs of Damascus-Behairat el Merdj -Lanterns-Ramble in the Dark-Characteristics of the PeopleApathy of the Damascenes-Oriental Scenes-Shopkeepers-Village of Salahieh-Country Villa-The Consular Residence-Damascus

The Great Cemetery-Extraordinary Scene-Female MournersEastern Ladies-The Country Villa-Hospital of Lepers-Saul of Tarsus-The Djereed-The Meadow of Damascus.-63.

CHAPTER V.

Damascus Street called Straight-Mosque of the DervishesKhan of Hussein Pasha-Scene in a Khan-Conclusion of a Bargain -Bagdad Caravan-Bedouin Women-Military Divan-StreetsCafés-Gate of Tombs-Funeral Procession-Hired Mourners-Mussulman Superstition--Salahieh--Scenery-Blindness--Ophthalmia --Amusing Anecdote--Mistake of the Guard-Mosques-ImaunsMuezzins Environs of Damascus-Oriental Scenes-Sunset-The Call to Prayer-Mussulman Prayers-Devotion-Night Call to Prayer.-82.

CHAPTER VI.

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Damascus-House of Assab Pasha-Grand Saloon-Internal Magnificence-House of Ali Aga Kazini Katibi-The Crystal Chamber -Politeness of the Proprietor-Damascene Houses-The Gardens of Damascus The Place of the Separation of the Waters-The surrounding Scenery-Ride through the Gardens-Salahieh-Arrival of the Bedouin Arabs-The Sheikh and his two Relations-Their Visit to the British Consul-Their Mode of Salutation, Dress, and Conversation-Their Reception as the Guests of the Author and his Friends -Salahich-The Women of the Harem-Bedouin Arabs-Preparation for Dinner-Purification--The Prayers of the Bedouins-Expla nation of the Prayers-Extracts from the Koran-The Mussulman's Paradise-His Idea of a future State-Termination of the PrayersThe Dinner-The voracious Appetites of the Bedouin Guests-The Scene at Midnight-A Morning's Walk into Damascus-Oriental Scenes-Quarrelling Arabs-The Sugar Merchant's Shop--Scene at the Shop-The Damascene Wag confounded-The Preparation of the Departure for Palmyra-Account of the present State of the Desert Eneze Tribe of Arabs-The Mode of Life of the Bedouins-The Bedouin Sheikh.-95.

CHAPTER VII.

Departure for Palmyra-Mounting Dromedaries-Activity of the Arabs-Halt for the Night-The Ghouta of Damascus-Bedouin Encampments-Wild Scenery-Desert of El Hammad-The Flocks and Herds-Filling the Water-skins-The Arming of the BedouinsBedouin Arms-Bedouin War-cry-Sham Combat-Contest between the two Sheikhs-Beautiful Training of the Horses-Entering the Desert-Singular Prospect from the Mountains-Arrival at Nebk-Arab Villagers-Ignition of Phosphoric Matches-The Astonishment of the Arabs-Departure from Nebk- The Sheikh and his BrotherTheir extreme Civility-Route to Palmyra-The Plain of Salt-The Encampment of the Bedouin Sheikh-The Tents-The Salutation of the Arabs-The Bedouin Women-Dromedaries-Feast in the Sheikh's Tent-The Mode of Life of the Bedouins-Preservation of ancient Customs-State of Society among them-The Authority of the Sheikhs-Description of the Desert-The Vegetation of the

Desert-The Flocks and Herds of the Bedouins-The Migrations of the Tribes-The Arab Horses-Scene after Supper in the Sheikh's Tent-The Appearance of the Arabs congregated round the Fire. -113.

CHAPTER VIII.

Bedouin Camp-Scene at Sunrise-Dromedaries-The Morning Prayers-Some Account of the Bedouins-The Arabian HorseBreakfast in the Sheikh's Tent-Making Presents to the Women of the Tribe-Dress and Appearance of the Women-Fondness of the Bedouins for Sugar-Their Delight at the sight of an English Drawing of a Party of Bedouins-Bedouin Music-Departure-Journey in the Desert-Halts during the Day-The Cerastes or Horned Snake-Halt at Cariatein-Mounting a Dromedary-Route from Cariatein to Palmyra-Appearance of the Desert-The Djerboas-Bedouins of the Bagdad Caravan-The Method of kindling a Fire in the Desert-Scene at Sunset-Visit to the Bedouins of the Bagdad Caravan-Coffee and Spices of Bagdad-Romantic Scene by the Light of the Fires-The Beauty of the Heavens-An Arab at Prayer-Continuation of the Journey by Moonlight-An unruly DromedaryNight March across the Desert-Beauty of the Moonlight-Romantic Appearance of the long Caravan-The Night Encampment-The immense Fires-Continuation of the Journey at Sunrise-Halts in the Desert--The Scenery-View of the Mountains of Palmyra-Arrival at the Valley of the Tombs-Arrival at the Citadel of Palmyra and the Village of Tadmor.-127.

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CHAPTER IX.

History of Palmyra-Tadmor in the Wilderness-Its Foundation by Solomon-The Name changed by the Greeks-The Prosperity and Magnificence of Palmyra accounted for-Odenatus the Palmy-His Victories over the Persians-His Assassination by Mæonius-Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra-Her Beauty and Accomplishments-Her Victories over the Romans-Her Conquest of EgyptMarch of Aurelian against her-The Battle of Immai-The Capture of Antioch-The Battle of Emesa-The Siege of Palmyra-The Flight and Capture of Zenobia-The Execution of Longinus-The Destruction of Palmyra-The Triumph of Aurelian-The Fate of Zenobia.-143.

CHAPTER X.

Palmyra-General Aspect of the Ruins-The Great Desert-The peculiarly wild and solemn Scenery-Description of the Ruins-The Grand Gateway-The Grand Avenue of Columns-Ruined Gateways and Colonnades-The small Temple-The Entrance to the CitadelGreek Inscriptions-The Double Colonnade in the Interior of the Citadel-The Temple of the Sun-The ornamented Chambers-The Zodiac.-159.

CHAPTER XI.

Palmyra-Valley of the Tombs-Sepulchral monuments-Greek and Palmyrene Inscriptions-Tomb of Iamblichus-Tomb of Elabe

lus Manaus-The Saracenic Castle-Singular View from the Mountains-Ancient Aqueducts-Ancient Stone Doorway-Slaughter of a Camel-Monumental Columns-Ancient Baths-Palmyrene Inscriptions-The Magnificence of the Citadel-The Grotto of Hot Water -The Thunder Storin-The wild Appearance of the Desert and of the Ruins--The Lightning-Excursion into the Desert-The Plain of Salt-The Great Desert--The Village of Tadinor-The Arab Hostess-Arab Villagers-Bedouin Arabs--The Arab Girl--The present Appearance of the Village of Tadmor.-169.

CHAPTER XII.

Palmyra-Departure-Last View of the Ruins--Scene over the Desert-The Night Encampment-Antelopes--The Hunt-The Gazelle-Cariatein-Arab Women-Well of Water-Arab Girl--Arab Women drawing Water--The Sheikh of Djeroud-His Arabian Horse--The Dromedary-The Arrival at Djeroud--The Sheikh's House The Supper-Departure at Sunrise-The Mushroom of the Desert-The Merdj of Damascus--The Disarming of the Bedouins-The Approach to Damascus--Scene at Sunset-Eastern SunsetsArrival at Salahieh--The Bedouin Arabs-Their Moral snd Social Condition-Comparison between the Civilisation of the Bedouins and that of the Mass of the British Population.-187.

CHAPTER XIII.

Damascus-The Gardens-The Fruits-The Bazaars-The Damascene Tailor-The Great Mosque-The Gate Bah Girun-The Bedouin Sheikh-His Conversation at Dinner-Bedouin Kindness to Horses--Damascene Manufactures-The Working Jewellers-The Sabres-Ladies' Costume-Damascene Grandees-Damascene GirlElegant Costume-The Ladies of Damascus-Superstition-The Evil Eye-The Saddle Bazaar-The Nargilla-The old Castle of Damascus The Walls of Damascus-The Wedding--Procession to the Bath-Arabian Nights-Mosques of Damascus-Damascene Fever -Ophthalmia-The Population of Damascus-Grottoes in the Mountains.-203.

CHAPTER XIV.

The History of Damascus-Its Antiquity-Its Revolutions-The Saracenic Invasion-The Fall of Bosra-The Siege of DamascusThe Prowess of Caled-The Siege raised--The Sally of Peter and Paul The Heroism of the Saracen Women-The Valor of DerarThe Ambuscade-The Battle of Aiznadin--Reinvestment of Damascus-Thomas of Damascus-The Saracen Widow-The Surrender of Damascus to Abu Obeidah-The Assault by Caled-The Dispute -Capture of the City--The Damascene Fugitives--Jonas and Eudocia The Damascene Lover-Pursuit of the Fugitives-Death of Eudocia Slaughter of the Fugitives-Fate of Jonas-Saracenic Enthusiasm.-215.

CHAPTER XV.

The Caliphs of Damascus-Moawyah, First Caliph of Damascus-

The Caliph Yezid-His Slaughter of Hosein the Schehadat-Moaw. yah Ben Yezid-The Caliph Valid-Soliman Ben Abdalmalek-The Caliph Omar-His Goodness-His murder--Yezid Ben Abdalmalek -His beautiful Concubines-Haschem Ben Abdalmalek-Yezid Ben Valid Ben Abdalmalek-The Caliph Mervan-Destruction of the Ommiades-Massacre at Damascus-Elevation of the Abassides to the Caliphate-Removal of the Caliphate to Bagdad-Conquest of Damascus by the Turcomans-The Sultan Noureddin-His JusticeThe Sultan Saladin-His Death at Damascus Destruction of Damascus by Timour Beg-Fanaticism of the Damascenes-Capture of Damascus by Ibrahim Pasha-Establishmeut of a British Consul. -234.

CHAPTER XVI.

Past and present State of Syria-Its former Wealth, Power, and Opulence-The present Desolation and Impoverishment—Causes of its Decline-The numerous Wars-The Successive Conquests-The Violence and Rapine of the Conquerors-Saracens and Turks, Military Adventurers-State of Syria under the Sultans of Constantinople -How affected by Mohammed Ali's Conquest-Causes of Ibrahim Pasha's Success-Ibrahim Pasha's Addresses to the People-Their sanguine Expectations of Protection from the new Government-How disappointed-The Ambition of Mohammed Ali-His love of WarHis want of Soldiers--The Conscriptions in Syria-The Insurrections -The Population disarmed by Ibrahim Pasha-Account of the late events in Syria-Renewed Conscriptions to supply Soldiers for the War in the Hedjaz-Exactions on the People--Heavy Taxation-Ef. fect of Mohammed Ali's Government on the Country--Its present Tranquillity-How secured-The present State of the Country-Its continued gradual Decline-The Beirout Merchant's written Statement of the Effect of Ibrahim Pasha's Rule-The increased Taxa. tion-The vast Drain on the Population for Soldiers--The Arbitrary Acts of the Government--The Monopolies-The present State of Commerce-The enormous Expenditure of the Government-The Insecurity of the Pasha's Position-The Necessity of a large Military Establishment--The Country sacrificed to the Ambition of its Rulers -The Effect of the late Measures-The Insecurity of Person and Property The Destruction of Industry.—246.

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