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The Royal Hotel is very commodious, forming part of the Crescent, built on an extensive scale; the rooms are handsome, many of them elegant, but the Assembly-room, which is within the Hotel, is as finished in respect to symmetry and ornamento both as to the mason and the upholsterer, as any that I ever remember to have seen.
The Hall was formely the only house of accommodation, and is yet fashionably attended, being near the Wells or Pump-room, at the end of the Crescent; the libraries here are small, nor are there any shops that can boast of a respectable appearance, there being no rooms of consequence or magnitude enough to display a variety of articles.
There are two very large inns, in the upper or high part of the town, the White Hart and the Eagle, which, like those of the Hall, Royal Hotel, &c. in the lower town, are made use of as boarding houses, where the visitors, in different parties, mess together in the greatest harmony, order, and decorum, and are seldom at a loss for the want of mental as well as bodily entertainment; the charges are moderate, considering the great variety of viands which are generally served up to the company.
Lodgings in private houses are of a very ordinary kind, and scarce; there is no common market here ; so that butcher's meat, poultry, and fish are very dear, and fruit is sold at an enormous price, being brought from
a considerable distance, for there is little vegetation about Buxton; the country round it is bald, bleak, and dreary, has little foliage, and bears a great resemblance to many parts of Scotland. The rides are not very pleasant, there being no objects but naked hills and fruitless dales, picturing one desolate scene, often impressing the mind with melancholy.
To gentlemen, who go there on the plan of grouse-shooting and moregame, it is well enough; but the invalid, who wishes to recreate himself with a morning's ride now and then, had better confine himself to the
pur-lieus of the Crescent, or the walks in the garden belonging to the Hall.
There is a little compact theatre here made out of an old barn, which has had much pains bestowed upon it, and the interior so decorated, that, when you are within it, you loose all idea of its original state; it is usually kept very clean and well lighted; the outside has also been so well furbished up, as almost to make you forget its wonted rusticity; I have seen good acting in this little theatre, when Cooke, who used to perform in the Manchester company, has been there on a summer's engagement.
Poole's Hole is a subterraneous cavern, about a mile from the Crescent, which, from its entrance to its furthermost bounds, is said to be six hundred feet, and in which are many an excavated and lofty roof; you are
conducted through this place by a set of old women, something resembling the witches in Macbeth, with small candles stuck between their greasy fingers.
In some parts it is decorated with various coloured spar, which, from the light of the candles, often gives it a beautiful effect; yet, this is a visit of some danger; for, when
have been riding or walking on a summer's day until you are warm, the fatal chills have sometimes been attended with disagreeable consequences to the constitution, by giving it a sudden check; in many places there is the appearance of large rocks of ice, which are continually kept wet, and rendered slippery from the drizzling and petri