94

PRISONS. PRINCES.

The prisons are contiguous to the courts of law, and under strong guards. A distinction is made between debtors and criminals; but there is a very improper practice of ailowing two men to sleep in one bed. Howard, the philanthropist, who visited this place in September, 1780, remarked, it was characteristic of a government like Russia, that there should be no regular jailors, but that the prisoners should be guarded by soldiers.

The title of Kniaz, or prince, is exceedingly common in Russia, and may be considered as equivalent to that of duke, for which there exists here no exactly corresponding term. But although such an appellation conveys to an Englishman an idea of great opulence and dignity, many of those who bear it are extremely poor; indeed we heard of one, who was actually an usher in a public school. Happening to enter into conversation with an opulent nobleman at a public dinner, he put to me such a variety of questions, that I was apprehensive he was trying to draw information from me that he might communicate it to government, especially when he alluded to English publications on the subject of Russia. In consequence of this, apprehensive of being entrapped, and having a salutary fear of Siberia, my language became very cautious and measured. I soon, however, discovered that his sentiments were exceedingly

NUMBER OF MILITARY.

95

free, and he was, in fact, a true liberal; on which account he had been deprived of a situation he held in Poland. In the course of conversation he made one observation tolerably bold, and plainly showing the opinion he entertained both of his own countrymen and Englishmen; namely, that "it was only through the medium of the writings of British travellers, who could speak their sentiments unreservedly, that Russians could obtain a knowledge of their own land, and what was going on in it; and that English works on this subject were most eagerly sought after, but can only be imported clandestinely." Prudence demands that the name of this liberal and enlightened individual should not be divulged, otherwise he might be instantly added to the numerous inhabitants of Siberia. Should, however, these volumes ever fall into his hands, he may recognise this sketch of himself; perhaps, too, he will find in them several circumstances to which he had been a stranger, confirmatory of the observation he made respecting information being disseminated by strangers, which the natives dare not promulgate.

We found it impossible to ascertain the number of military here, and equally so to learn the entire amount of the Russian forces, although it is calculated that the troops may amount to the enormous number of one million and upwards.

96

OF THE IMPERIAL RESIDENCE.

It must be considered as unfortunate that the imperial family do not make this city, as well as St. Petersburg, their residence for some part of the year, after the manner of the King of the Netherlands, who lives at the Hague and Brussels alternately. This is greatly lamented here by all ranks. It could not fail to add to the importance of this capital, while it would be attended with much benefit to the empire generally, and attach the Moscovites more to their sovereign; at the same time it would cause greater attention to be paid to the interior provinces. During the winter months, too, this place is most decidedly preferable, in many points of view, to the new capital. Peter's motive for removing the seat of government to a corner of the empire, evidently arose from the apprehensions he entertained of the Swedes, and his anxiety to keep that power in check.

From the closest observations we could make, the inhabitants are evidently more liberal in their sentiments, under fewer restrictions, and speak on political subjects with greater freedom than those of St. Petersburg; and this fact alone would have induced us to give the preference to Moscow as a residence; nor do I apprehend that we are singular in our opinion. A great anxiety prevails among the upper orders to receive English youths into their houses gratis, in order that their

children may acquire the English language. In morals, however, there is not much choice between either cities.

The Moscovites, at least the great mass of them, are superstitious to an excess bordering in reality on downright absurdity. We need not, therefore, ask whether they are moral, or express our surprise at finding them not so; for since superstition is a mere religion of forms, the body without the vital spark, how, it may be asked, can it possibly be otherwise than putrid and corrupt?

CHAP. V.

De

Conflagration of Moscow. Evidence relative to the perpetrators of that catastrophe. -Napoleon's flight. struction of the English church-Russia's views of aggrandizement. Political reflections.

If we except the conflagration of Rome by the imperial monster, Nero, we can find nothing in all history to parallel that which devastated Moscow, and converted nearly the whole city into a mass of ruins. As this is a subject that has attracted the attention of the world at large, and has already been fully discussed by various writers, it will not be necessary to repeat their details. I shall, therefore, confine my remarks within an extremely narrow compass, contenting myself with adverting to some facts which do not appear to have before met the public eye.

Neither Russians nor Frenchmen are willing to admit that the work of destruction commenced with them, each nation attributing it to the other; although, according to some reports, both participated in it, it being affirmed, that it was begun by the former, and completed by the latter; yet, why the Russians should be so anxious to make it appear that it was not the act of their own countrymen, it is not easy to per