MERCHANTS.

POPULATION.

89

but have immovable property in town, pay yearly 200 rubles, besides one half per cent. on its value, as municipal dues. The capitation tax throughout the empire is three rubles and a half. Previously to the invasion of Bonaparte, the signboards were generally in the French language; but they are now ordered to be in Russian, and those who wish to have them in foreign languages are obliged to pay a certain duty. No duties are imposed on any article from England brought into the city, these being settled at the ports where they arrive. Licences are taken out for sporting, and cost ten rubles yearly; yet, what is rather singular, should a person accompany another who is licensed, although merely to witness the sport, he must pay fifteen rubles for his curiosity.

* I subjoin a comparative view of the population of Moscow, which has not hitherto appeared.

90

JEWS.

SMOKING.

The Jews do not enjoy the same privileges here as in London, Copenhagen, Dantzic, or other parts. In fact, they are not permitted to remain in the city beyond twenty-four hours, and instances are not wanting of bribing the police to extend the period of their sojourn.

Great quantities of bread are hawked about streets, made up in the form of rings. Some hundred pieces of these are strung round the neck and body of the vender, so that he looks as if he was hung in chains. On the meanest stalls there is exposed the whitest bread I ever beheld.

The practice of smoking is very common here, although, towards the end of last century, this indulgence was pronounced sinful. A monopoly of the importation of tobacco was granted to a private company in 1698. It was also conferred on an individual in 1762, but afterwards abolished.

In the preceding volume*, I have spoken of the flagrant abuses in the administration of jus

It appears, then, there were 22,731 less this year (1825)

than in 1823.

* Chapter XIV.

tice, which, of course, is not at all purer here; I will, therefore, only give an additional anecdote, as illustrative of the bare-faced corruption that prevails in this respect. A poor man, who had an estate of between 40,000 and 50,000 rubles, which fell to him at the death of a relation, was obliged to proceed to St. Petersburg, on account of a law-suit relating to this property. Month passed after month, and year after year, till wearied out by the delays of Justice, whom he discovered to be not only blind, but snail-paced, he determined to abandon his cause at once. On this he was informed by the person at the head of that department, that a thousand rubles might settle the matter in the course of two or three days. This intelligence was almost as vexatious as the previous procrastination; for how was the claimant, whose finances were now utterly exhausted, to raise such a sum? Desperation, however, will sometimes hit upon expedients that would startle prudence: he resolved to wave all ceremony, and apply to the Emperor (Nicholas) at once for the loan of the money. The singularity of the request was such that His Majesty ordered the man to be sent for, and inquired what could possibly induce him to mistake his sovereign for a money-lender, or make so extraordinary an application; upon which the person briefly stated his case. Aware of the great corruption that existed in all public departments, and anxious to

ascertain if such was the fact, or whether it was merely a stratagem on the part of the applicant, the Emperor gave him the money, having first taken the number of the notes, and ordered him to acquaint him with the result. The man shortly after returned, and informed him that the minister had engaged to settle the whole business forthwith. On this the Emperor sent for him, and asked whether he had received any money that morning. Startled by so abrupt and unexpected a question, and suspecting that the transaction had reached the imperial ear, he deemed it to be most prudent to confess that he had; and on the notes being produced, they were found to be those given to the petitioner. The Emperor then told the dispenser of justice, that he was perfectly aware that the salaries of persons in public offices were inadequate to their support, and that it was one of the grievances he intended to correct as speedily as circumstances would permit ; but that he could not overlook so flagrant a violation of justice, and he must prepare to pay a visit to Siberia. On this it may be remarked, in the language of inspiration, "Are ye not partial in yourselves, and are become judges of evil thoughts?" The venality, in short, of these courts of justice, as they are rather ironically called, is paralleled only by those in the East, where an individual observed

* James, ii. 4.

*

RESTAURATEURS.

93

to another, how extremely difficult it was to show justice when one of the parties was wealthy and the other poor; to which it was answered, that it was only when both parties were rich there could be any doubts on which side the scale of justice ought to preponderate.

There are several restaurateurs, who have establishments similar to those in Paris; and at one house the gourmand will meet with dinners served up in the true Russian style, and unrivalled for the excellence of soup and fish. The waiters are odd figures, for they wear red shirts, with frocks thrown over them, which are open at the neck, and enormous wide boots like those of Dutch fishermen, who have their hair cropped so short behind, as to leave the neck quite bare.

In the Kitai-Gorod there is an ancient gateway, with figures of a lion and unicorn, leading to the printing-office of the synod. This is said to have been formerly the entrance to the hotel of a British ambassador; and that hearing of the execution of Charles I., the Tzar was so indignant he ordered it to be converted to its present purpose. Whether, however, this be a mere idle legend or not, it is singular we should find supporters of the British arms surmounting a gateway at Moscow.*

*During the reign of Henry VII. it appears that the dragon and greyhound were supporters of the arms of England.