detestably bad, especially as more is demanded for horses when hired from the town, than in the interior. In this wretched track we often stuck fast, and were obliged to leave the carriage, being apprehensive that it would be upset. We had a proof of the exertions the animals were obliged to make in travelling over this vile road, from seeing those which had dropped dead, and whose carcases were covered with ravens picking out their eyes.

Passing some beautiful churches and convents, finely situated, we came to Tchonogros, where there was a tolerable inn. After this the same wretched quagmire, which is a disgrace to the government, continued; and we passed several carts which had broken down. The wheels for raising water from wells in front of houses, are so enormous, and have such lofty and huge machinery, that they might be taken for the frame-work of an exhibition for fireworks. This happening to be a fete day, groups of both sexes were sitting at their doors, as formally as if they were holding a deliberate council on the affairs of the state; the men on one side, and women on the other. Within nine versts of the city, the spires and green roofs of Moscow became visible. We now passed the palace of Petrovsky, which is a square brick edifice, with a dome in the centre, and round towers, standing on a heath, and commanding

PALACE OF PETROVSKY.

25

a most extensive view. It is from this palace that the sovereigns of Russia set out, whenever they make a public entry into Moscow. This was also considered by Bonaparte as a convenient spot for his residence, on his hearing that the "snare was laid for him, and a trap in the way," by the Kremlin having been set on fire.

After posting for six days from St. Petersburg, we now entered the gates of the ancient capital. On each side of the barrier is erected a column of brick, covered with plaster, and surmounted by the imperial crown. So soon as the carriage came up, the sentinel on duty shut the gate, demanded the podrozhna, and took it to the guard-house, when several questions were put to us, especially as to our really being the individuals there named and described. Being satisfied as to our identity, the passport was next required, and examined; and we were even asked at what hotel we intended to reside. After this, we were permitted to proceed; and drove to a hotel kept by a German, where we had to submit to another scrutiny, and answer a number of questions highly irksome to the feelings of Englishmen.

PROPER

THE

NEW YORK

SOCIETY LIBRARY

CHAP. II.

The Kremlin.. · Architecture.·

Great bell.

Holy Gate.- Prospect.

Treasury. Immense cannon. Church of

the Assumption. - Royal cemetery.- Churches.

Foundling hospital. Galitzin's hospital. - Sheremetiev hospital. Countess Orlov's palace. — Imperial stables. - Carriages. Funeral ceremonies.

Streets, &c.

Super

stitions. Frauds of shopkeepers.- Cossacks. Platov.

It was with feelings stronger than those of mere curiosity that we entered a city whose so recent and almost utter destruction had formed an important crisis in the affairs of Europe, and checked the triumphant career of him whose steps had every where been marked by desolation. But of the dreadful conflagration few traces remained, and Moscow had sprung up again from its ashes so completely, that one a stranger to the fact would never have imagined that hardly ten years had elapsed since the devouring flames had laid waste its streets, sweeping away palaces, churches, and houses in one common ruin. It was like visiting a plain after a tremendous tempest, and finding nature herself renovated by the preceding contest of the elements.

Mat Moscow, or literally Mother Moscow, as it is familiarly designated by the natives, or, as it is denominated by some foreigners, the Palmyra of

the north, is regarded as the most venerable of all the Russian cities. Yet notwithstanding the high antiquity frequently claimed for them by historians, the actual identity of cities is very problematical; for excepting here and there some particular building, the changes they undergo in the course of centuries are so great as not to leave a single fragment of their original structure, and the names belong rather to their sites than to the buildings.

Thus Moscow is said to have existed from the end of the ninth century; in other words, there was then erected a fortress or military station here, that served as a nucleus for the future city. But the Kremlin, as it stands at present, dates no farther back than 1485, when the present constructions were commenced by Ivan Vassilivich III., who employed two Italian architects, Marco and Pietro Antonio. It was to this celebrated edifice, or rather assemblage of edifices, that we first directed our steps on commencing our peregrinations through the city; and although many of its structures might be pronounced barbarous by those who can see no beauty except in classical architecture, or that which has since been founded upon it, there is something very piquant in their physiognomy; while the contrast of the various groups, variety and brilliancy of their colours, — with their towers and domes, form a scene in the

the

28

ITS ARCHITECTURE.

highest degree picturesque, and worthy the attention both of the painter and the architect. With the exception of Constantinople, and some parts of Venice, there is no city in Europe that exhibits such striking peculiarity and originality in the character of its edifices. The style of architecture we here meet with is totally distinct from that termed Gothic, although, as in that, we find great altitude, numerous perpendicular lines, bold contrasts, and variety of outline. Some of its principal features are, the lofty slender towers, and bulbous domes, almost invariably gilt or painted, sometimes, too, fantastically wreathed, which, instead of rising immediately from the roof, are often placed on the summit of towers, and expanding somewhat like a balloon with its lower extremity cut off, their larger diameter being considerably greater than that of the tower on which they are placed. Another characteristic is the number of these cupolas, and, of course, their smallness compared with the general mass of the building which they crown. Thus the principal decoration is confined to the summit of the edifices, the side walls and their apertures being comparatively plain; in which respect this style differs considerably from the Gothic, where spacious windows filled with tracery, buttresses, niches, &c. form such conspicuous features. This style is likewise remarkable, not merely for its forms, but the colours introduced; whereas both in