borg. Odensee.—Jutland. - The Little Belt.-Colding. - Christianfeldt. - Moravians. - Havershaven. - Flensborg. Bodies of criminals exposed. Tumuli. Machine for conveying letters by post. — Arrival at Sleswig.

On the morning of the 8th of November we left the capital of Denmark. uncommonly large and heavy, of English heavy cavalry.

Our horses were almost like those On stopping to

bait, the carriage was driven under a large covered place, similar to a barn, with formidable folding doors at each extremity, and capable of containing a great number of carriages. At each side were mangers, fixed against the walls; and the whole place was exceedingly commodious, as affording shelter during inclement weather. After we had passed through Roeskilde, the ancient capital of Denmark, still famous for its cathedral, and being the birthplace of the celebrated author, Holberg, the country became flat; and numerous ancient tumuli were in all directions. The church at Ringsted, a place that formerly ranked as a city, contains the tombs of the ancient kings of Den

CHURCH AT RINGSTED.

223

mark: among others, those of Erick and Canute. The building, which is in the Gothic style, and in the form of a cross, is of great length, and has a tower in the centre. It is crowded with portraits of nobility, and antique tomb-stones. The altar stands almost in the centre of the church, and has figures of the apostles round it.

The farm houses in this part of Denmark make a singular appearance, being covered with turf, on which are planted willows. The peasantry are well clothed, particularly the women, whose caps are edged with lace, and whose favourite colour for their gowns and petticoats seems to be green. We met no postchaises, but several vehicles, like carts, without roofs, with seats placed across, on which the body of a phaeton is often suspended on leather straps. We stopped at a house in front of the Lake Tuelsne, which was as neat a dwelling as any in England; after which we passed a fine wood of birch and oak, having occasionally a view of the lake, with a village and church on the opposite side.

Soroe, which was the next place we came to, consists of a few houses, and a large brick edifice, which is a royal college, supported by the revenues of what was once a richly-endowed convent. On a height beyond it was a gibbet, where a female had been lately decapitated for strangling her child. Her head was stuck on

224

SCENERY, FAIR AT SLAGELSEE.

the top of it, and the body exposed on a wheel laid horizontally on a pole. The country, which was hitherto naked, now became exceedingly beautiful; and, in one place, where there were two sheets of water, the character of the scenery was highly romantic. The road, too, was excellent, being formed of gravel, and of consider able breadth; and, from one spot, we could count ten churches. After passing the mansion of Count Knul, a most extensive view was unfolded; and we came to Slagelsee, a neat town, which at this time happened to be crowded, there being a fair at the entrance of it, and it presented an interesting sight, on account of the various groups that had flocked to it from all quarters, and who exhibited the greatest diversity of costumes. Both pans and kettles were in requisition: the former for frying savoury dishes, of various kinds; the latter for boiling; nor were glasses forgotten, for they seemed to circulate pretty freely. The chief articles exposed for sale were, saddles and bridles, spinning-wheels, and trunks, the last of which were gaudily painted, and as capacious as military chests, or as if they were intended to contain a whole wardrobe. Stalls were also erected within the town; and around these were crowds of rustics, of both sexes. The women had fair, rosy complexions; and were smartly decked out with cottage bonnets, of black velvet, edged with lace, and trimmed

BAVARIAN JUGGLER.

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with green ribands; and green gowns, and wooden shoes. Many of the old peasants had large wide coats, without collars; and waistcoats, with pockets outside, and with a profusion of large buttons as thickly set as those on the jackets of our sailors. Not one was to be seen in ragged clothes; on the contrary, there was an air about them that bespoke comfort, economy, and industry; nor was a single beggar to be met with.

With regard to the town itself, which contains thirteen thousand inhabitants, it is remarkably clean, and enlivened by numerous windmills in the neighbourhood; and may be said to resemble some of the neat towns in Devonshire. A Bavarian juggler entered our apartment at the inn, without offering the slightest apology, and showed a curiosity, which was the preparation of a scorpion in a glass-case. At first his compliments were as smooth as the glass he held; but on finding he could not prevail on us to become purchasers, he left the room hissing almost like a living scorpion. On leaving Slagelsee, a charming prospect of an extensive plain burst into view, diversified with villages scattered over it; and there were numerous conical tumuli, like so many small hills undulating its surface. We had full leisure to view the scene; for Danish postilions, like those in Germany, cannot be accused of driving so rapidly as to prevent a

VOL. II.

traveller from hoting the objects on the road. The land in this district is good, well manured, and was in many places under spring crops. Judging from the number of churches, we should conceive the inhabitants not to be wanting in devotion. Unquestionably, this does them honour; and it is most convenient for the peasantry, since they are not, as is the case in several countries, obliged to go many miles to attend divine service. A view of the Belt now opened on us; and after proceeding down a road, between two seas, we arrived at Corsoer, which is situated on a peninsula, near a small port where boats land and depart. At the inn, we found the floors of the rooms we were shown into strewed, not with the twigs of firs as in Sweden, but with dried rose leaves; yet, though this custom may seem very poetical, Arcadian, and romantic, such a carpet is but a miserable substitute for the meanest of those we are accustomed to in England. On the door of each room is a list with the prices of provisions and liquors; and a notice, showing not only the vigilance, but promptitude of government, as to passports.

*

* "Sa Majesté ordonne que les voyageurs qui passent le Belt dans les vaisseaux ordinaires de trajet, seront obligés à delivrer leur passeports au maître du vaisseau, qui est tenu de les remettre au lieutenant du police au moment du débarquement, lequel les signera si promptement que les voyageurs, un quart heure étant passé, pourront faire querir leur passeports à la chambre de police." It may be added, that a