FILTHINESS OF THE PEASANTRY.

217

so winding, as those in the former part of our journey; but the landscape was altogether monotonous. Some tracts are entirely covered with oak trees; in others there is a good deal of common or waste land, and the fences are of stone, which adds to the bleakness of the scene. The juniper tree is not near so lofty as we had hitherto seen it, The villages were dirty, and the peasantry far from exhibiting that cleanliness, neatness, and comfort, which were before so remarkable a feature. Two circumstances, for which this province may be compared to some parts of Scotland, ought to be pointed out, although not very flattering to either, and would be an excellent subject for Mrs. M'Clarty. First, the prevalence of that filthy cutaneous disease, with which those south of the Tweed reproach their northern neighbours; and, secondly, the affection entertained for certain unsightly, and not very aromatic heaps, which they pile up just before their doors, especially in villages, as if they were unwilling to lose any of the perfume that is diffused from them. Were they Catholics, we might imagine they intended thus, like many of the saints and devotees of that church, to mortify their senses, and thereby perform a meritorious duty; but as they are not, we must suppose that they have a taste for such scents, however unaccountable it

may appear to English noses. Some persons indulge in attar of roses, others, less sophisti

218

FILTHINESS OF THE PEASANTRY.

cated in taste, the simple children of nature, enjoy the luxury of an odour never yet lauded by poets as one of the delights of rural life. The females occupying these Arcadian bowers were quite in keeping with the dwellings themselves, being abominably dirty, and slovenly in the extreme, with "unzoned waists," and their loose tresses hanging about their ears in such disorder, that, picturesque as it was, it caused us to regret that scissors and combs should not have found their way hither. There was little danger of soft contagion from their eyes, but very great risk, indeed, of contagion of a more unpoetical kind from their touch; for- and it is a remark which truth extorts from me, though delicacy, if not gallantry, would suppress it,-they were all absolutely covered with itch.* The pigs here, which, by the by, are far more cleanly than the fair sex, may be denominated red-coats, they being mostly of that colour, although it is one not greatly affected by those sluggish animals. The

* Since we are touching on this subject, it may not perhaps be amiss to mention that a French medical professor has asserted that 6000 soldiers afflicted with itch were cured in a few days by washing their bodies twice a day, first with soap and water, and afterwards a solution of sulphuret of potass; about four drachms of the sulphuret to a pint of distilled or rose water. He also states, that according to comparative trials made in the hospital at Montpellier, oliveoil rubbed over the skin will as speedily cure this disease as the most powerful preparations of sulphur.

MILITARY ENCAMPMENT.

219

churches are built in the Danish form, extremely narrow and high, with a gable front, zig-zagged at its edges, like steps meeting and terminating in a point at top.

On reaching Blekemosa, we got into the great road between Stockholm and Helsingborg; and after passing through a wild country, arrived at Aby, where the judges were sitting in the posthouse, attended by a crowd of persons. They meet twice a-year in every province, and hold their assizes two weeks, or sometimes more, according to the extent of business which comes before them. A camp of 20,000 men is pitched near this place once in every three years. There are also two other camps at Stockholm and Uxvalla, ten miles north of Gottenburg. These are said to occasion government an expence of 18,000 banco daily, and, independently of this, liberal sums are given by the King for entertainments. At Helsingborg the money we had paid as a duty on our carriage from Abo to Stockholm was returned to us, on our showing the receipt given us there. Travellers, who arrive here from Denmark, are obliged either to bring or buy a carriage, as there are no stage-coaches or post-chaises in the country. Should they purchase one, they may reckon upon having to pay a high sum; and after finishing their journey, obtain but a mere trifle for it. For the carriage, which cost us 50%., besides harness that

220

TRAVELLING EXPENCES.

cost 51. at Hamburgh, we were only offered by our landlord 87. 6s. 8d., and 13s. 4d. for the harness, And as he is the only person in the place who either furnishes carriages or purchases them, the traveller must submit to take his price, if he wishes to get rid of his vehicle. The business being a monopoly, he has turned it to a good account, as he again disposes of these carriages for, perhaps, four times the sum he paid for them.

Our passport was examined and indorsed, for which we paid 2s., and also 10s, for two boats, to the men 40 skillings, and 4 banco 8 skillings for putting the carriage on board. We here crossed over to Elsineur in two hours, and found the officers, by whom the baggage was superficially examined, unusually civil. Furnished here with another passport, which cost us four dollars; and having made a bargain for four horses at fifteen marks, we set out for the Danish capital. One good regulation here, which prevents all mistakes between driver and traveller, is, that the former has a ticket mentioning the precise distance the horses are to go, and the amount of hire. At the end of the journey he produces this; and it is material to observe, that there is a request subjoined to it, that if the postilion has acted in any respect improperly, his conduct may be complained of, on which he is liable to punishment. Soon after we entered

COUNT SCHIMMELMANN.

221

Copenhagen, which has been fully described by

me in a former tour.

This being the 28th of October, the anniversary of the birth of the Queen, a splendid dinner and ball were given at court. A vast multitude assembled before the palace of Amelienborg, who were gratified in seeing the company through the windows. On this occasion no guns were discharged from the forts or vessels, nor were there any illuminations, fire-works, or other demonstrations of joy; but the festivities were confined to the walls of the palace. Her Majesty, who was born in 1767, is daughter of the Prince of Hesse, nephew to our late monarch.

We partook of the hospitality of the venerable Count Schimmelmann, at a splendid entertainment, and were introduced to all the foreign ministers. The Count succeeded as Prime Mi nister to M. Rosencrantz, who was prematurely cut off in the prime of life, lamented by his sovereign and the nation. After we had had the honour of a long interview with their Majesties and Prince Christian, the Count suggested that we should pay a visit to Her Majesty's father, and favoured us with a letter of introduction to His Serene Highness.