RIVER TVERTZA.

19

as to who should change our horses, and their clamour and altercation was so violent, that we apprehended the battle of tongues would be succeeded by one of fists. We often witnessed similar scenes, but the parties never came to actual blows; and being satisfied it was the custom among these people, we at length became reconciled to it. Here we were obliged to take six horses, the stations being at too great a distance for a lesser number. We crossed the river Tvertza along planks; and having passed through a wood, entered upon an open country, partly covered with ripe grain, and partly with grass, which females were employed in cutting down. Children were running about almost in a state of nudity, like those of the Arabs on the banks of the Nile. Our driver, who was a most gigantic figure, and of prodigious muscular strength, was one of the Cossacks who had accompanied the Emperor, with the Allies, to Paris, and he related some interesting anecdotes relative to that eventful period. We counted about twenty churches, several of which had domes, and were something in the eastern style of architecture.

On arriving at Torzhok, a considerable town, beautifully situated on a rapid river, we found the most respectable and neatest inn we had seen in Russia; it was built of smooth wood, with a portico, and painted yellow. The landlady of it was a Patagonian in point of stature,

and ludicrously, I had almost said alarmingly dressed, with a most singular cap, like a balloon, nearly three feet in height above the crown of her head.

Torzhok is famous for the manufacturing and embroidery of leather in gold and silver; and we were solicited to purchase some specimens by many who pressed upon us the moment we alighted. Among other articles formed of this material were cushions for carriages and other purposes, men's boots and caps, and ladies' shoes, some of which were very splendid, and well calculated to suit the taste of those who are fond of displaying gaudy finery. We purchased two narrow red cushions for about eleven shillings, which may serve to show the difference in the price of such articles here and in England. When the women here carry linen and clothes to wash, they suspend them at each end of a strong piece of wood, bent like a hoop, with the centre placed on one shoulder. There is a spring of water, that is the object of much superstitious veneration, being considered by the inhabitants as another pool of Siloam. On leaving this town we travelled along a flat country, and came to a river, on the other side of which lay the residence of General Klebova, built in the Italian mode, in a charming situation, surrounded with plantations in fact, this was the only fine house seen since we had left Tzarskoe Selo.

BEASTS OF PREY.

21

Arriving at the Tver, where loose broad-bottomed vessels were towing up to the town, we proceeded along its banks, and passing a wooden bridge across it, came to Modena, changed horses, and pursued our journey through a country covered with wood, and over a most miserable road. Although beasts of prey are said to infest these woods, we had the good fortune not to be attacked by them, or even to see one of any description. Once, however, a bear bolted out upon the person who was travelling with the mail-bag, which latter the terrified horse and its rider left in Bruin's possession, making their escape as quickly as possible; and many of the letters were afterwards found scattered about. In one place several houses were completely under water, and others on the point of falling from being undermined by it. The villages reminded us of those in Italy, inasmuch as they have always an elegant church, and when seen at a distance may be taken for towns. We again counted forty spires. The town of Werst is divided by a river, and there is a palace on its banks. We crossed a bridge of boats, and arrived at the hôtel de Milan, where we heard the French language spoken. After travelling during night we reached Zavidoro, passing images with lights burning before them; and there was an enormous box, se

22

CEREMONY ON PASSING A CHURCH.

cured with iron bars, to receive donations for the poor.

In the course of this stage we were frequently accosted by persons holding a plate, and imploring, for the love of God, that we would give them alms for the benefit of the church, as is the practice in Catholic countries. On passing one church, our driver gave a tolerable specimen of the profound respect shown to the externals of religion, by most ceremoniously taking off his hat, and remaining uncovered till it was nearly out of sight: at least no one can accuse this people of want of decency, as far as regards whatever is connected with the forms of devotion. The fields were neatly inclosed with wooden palings; and on each side of the road were lofty spruce firs. We met several hundred carts of the singular shape before described, drawn by oxen, and forming one lengthened cavalcade. After passing Kline we crossed a bridge over the river Sisara, and drove by a mansion belonging to a French general. About this spot many persons were stopping and making the sign of the cross, nor could we possibly conceive the reason of this apparent devotion, until, at last, we discovered there was a church at the distance of three miles that had attracted their eye, and caused this ceremony. We again saw several hundred carts drawn by oxen, with bells fixed to the poles; some of which

HAWKERS.

DRIVER.

23

had broken down under their heavy loads, and were repairing on the spot. Many of them belonged to hawkers, who were bivouacking on the side of the road, and who exhibited brooms on poles to denote that they had articles for sale, just as it is customary in England to affix a broom to the top of the masts of vessels that are for sale. Their trade could not have been very brisk, as there were but few passengers to be met with. Our driver, a grotesque figure, with a long beard, and wrapped up in an enormous sheepskin, having discovered that he had lost his great coat, which he had put under his feet, and a pound of tea that was wrapped up in it, dismounted, fell down and kissed the ground with the greatest humility, and continued to utter, for some minutes, the most direful lamentations, imploring us for a sum to replace his loss. Our servant, however, assured him that he must be under a mistake, as he had never seen the coat. Whether, therefore, he had actually lost it, or left it at the place from which he set out, we did not know; if, however, he intended to impose on us, he certainly acted his part inimitably. Yet a great coat was not an article of dress for which he appeared to have any occasion, as he was already perspiring under the enormous weight of the sheep-skin in which he was enveloped.

As we were now approaching Moscow, it was not a little strange that the road should be so