CHAP. X.

Lord Bloomfield. - Departure from Stockholm. - Route to Gripsholm. Castle of Gripsholm. Portraits.

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koping. Norkoping. Carlscrona. — Lakes, docks, and harbour. Naval models. Road to Christianstad. Christianstad.-Province of Sconia.- Disgusting filthiness of the peasantry. — Aby. — Military encampment. Travelling expences, &c.— Arrival at Copenhagen. -Fête. Count Schimmelmann.

HAVING

AVING formerly given a minute description of the city of Stockholm*, it will be unnecessary to enter into a recapitulation of that narrative. It may, however, be noticed here, that the Bible Society of Sweden, instituted in 1814, has, in connection with that Society in London, the glory of our land, circulated 240,405 copies of the Scriptures; and in Norway, a Society instituted two years after, has issued 16,000 copies.

On landing I hastened to pay my respects to our minister, Lord Bloomfield, from whom I met with that courteous attention and hospitality which have obtained for him the grateful regards of travellers; and with the exception of Sir Robert Liston, who was at one period in a diplomatic situation at this court, no English minister

* See the author's Travels in Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.

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ROUTE TO GRIPSHOLM.

has been so deservedly popular among the Swedes.

His Lordship having politely suggested Schultze, his courier, who spoke the English language, as a very serviceable person to accompany us, we accordingly engaged him. Soon` after we set out, and encountered a violent snow storm. The country was hilly, roads heavy, and the horses weak. We passed several fine lakes, and arrived at the large post-house of Fetzer, beautifully situated on Lake Albi, surrounded by rocks covered with wood; and notwithstanding the lateness of the season, the trees were still quite green and leafy, gladdening the eye of the winter traveller. We next passed along a bridge of granite, which has an inscription, showing that it was erected in 1813, by the Bank of Sweden. On one side of the road here, in different places, were boxes to receive donations for the poor. We afterwards met the retinue of the Crown Prince Oscar, on his return from the Norwegian dominions, whither he had been on a visit. Further on we beheld an extensive lake, with a church on the edge of it; the whole enveloped in dark wood; and a number of wild-fowl were sailing along the glossy bosom of its waters. After passing a draw-bridge over a canal that is connected with the celebrated Lake Malar, we arrived at Soderlitza, a small village situated in a valley, surrounded by hills ornamented with wood. Pur

CASTLE OF GRIPSHOLM.

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suing our route through Lagstad, we directed our course towards the castle of Gripsholm, which we intended to examine as an object worthy of the attention of travellers, from its celebrity both in the history of preceding ages and our own. This place, which was originally a monastery, is situated on a small island in Lake Malar, overlooking it and the contiguous village, and is a most formidable pile of building, in the Gothic style, with round towers and walls, those symbols of captivity, and is painted to resemble brick. On entering the court, the first objects which caught our eye were two formidable field-pieces. In the first apartment into which we were shown are a variety of pictures, and among them are several portraits of the family of Mecklenburg. This room led to a circular hall, where are eighty-two pictures. On a table in the centre were a number of hand

somely-bound books; one of which was an album, having on the title-page these words, "Those who desire to see Gripsholm, memorable in Swedish history, are requested to write their names in this book." Among the signatures, which were numerous, the first on the list were those of "Charles Jean," the present king; his consort, "Eugenie Désirée," Princess Oscar, Eugenie Josephine, and her husband, Prince "J. F. Oscar." The portraits in the various apartments are exceedingly numerous, and of per

sonages whose histories would form a most copious and interesting biographical gallery. Those which most engaged our attention were the following: -Philip II. of Spain on horseback; the first king of Sweden; Anne, Princess of Denmark, Queen of England, 1698; the queen of James I.; Anne Boleyn; Elizabeth, Queen of England an excellent likeness; a full-length of George I., George II., and Anne, daughter of James II. ; Marie Antoinette; Duchess of Angoulême; and the Dauphin; Charles XII.; Gustavus Adolphus; Joan of Arc; the Duke of Vendôme, and Louis XV. There were also many portraits of the Danish sovereigns, and of members of their family.

We were next conducted to a corridor, the walls of which were decorated with the portraits, not of royal and illustrious personages, but of certain royal favourites, who, unlike most of that race, were never known to abuse the partiality shown towards them by their masters. Names, it is to be presumed, they had, but I am unable here to record them; for with all their merits, they make no show in the page of history. Not to keep the reader in suspense, the portraits of which I am speaking were those of the favourite horses of Charles X. XI. and XII.; which although not the most interesting subjects for the pencil, are not the most contemptible creatures to be met with in a court.

The private theatre, which is fitted up with great taste, is almost entirely new, and is built in the form of a semicircle, with twelve gilded Corinthian columns, between which are seats for the court; and the spaces between three of them are fitted up with mirrors. Behind it are two rooms, with several small paintings; and in another, are various portraits of Charles XIII., in theatrical characters. Descending from this to another room, we found sixteen portraits of the royal family of Sweden. In the audience hall is an antique chair, with a canopy, on a platform, with a full-length portrait at the back of it of Gustavus Vasa, a name dear to every Swede. That of the present king hangs on the right of the throne, beneath those of Charles XI. and XII. There are in all twenty-one pictures; and among them is one of Erick IV. Adjoining this are the apartments (hung with tapestry) once occupied by Gustavus Adolphus IV. The room was pointed out where he voluntarily signed his abdication of the Swedish throne, an act which was followed up by a resolution of the diet, that he and his heirs should be excluded from the succession for ever. Two copies were signed by him; and one of them having been delivered for his own use, he ordered a lighted candle, and committed it to the flames. This prince was succeeded by Charles XIII., and he